Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
  
Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




International Peace & Friendship expedition to Broad Peak 2003


 Current Pakistan Time

Dispatch 13: **** NEWS FLASH! ****

First team members summits broad peak!

on July 15 at 1 pm Alex Chicong stood for a few moments atop a small crest at 8047 meters.

We congratulate our team mate for an immense achievement at the young age of 21.

Alex becomes the youngest Basque (?) to reach the summit of an 8000 meter peak he sets the standard for endurance and tenacity for his ............. I can attest to his effort as Alex, Walter, Fred and I all left camp 3 together with summit aspirations at 12-30 am .

The intense cold and sheer altitude caused each of us to turn back at some point. Having expended great effort keeping my feet warm and having braced myself against harsh winds for nearly 6 hours I turned back at 7400 meters . Where Alex found the inner strength and resolve to do the same for another 6 and a half hours is still hard for me to grasp.

It is certainly worth noting that the few of us able to reach the top were accomplished 8000 meter climbers with long resumes.

Grand company for Alex indeed. We await his safe return to base camp this afternoon and the beginning of a well deserved rest!

Stay tuned for a full update to follow. Stuart from base camp.

Second update is below

Stuart calling from broad peak base camp dispatch on July 16th.

With the successful summit attempts of Alex Chigong and a small group of accomplished and international mountaineers the rest of the team is feeling highly motivated and optimistic about the final round of attempts before we depart base camp on July 23.

Mike Hill has now spent 6 nights at camp 2 ...Mike loves reading a letter from home from his girlfriend and his spirits are higher than ever.

A slice of home in the hand is a marvelous remedy for high altitude ... All of us appreciate the letters that were sent whether they made their way to our remote locale or not. Mike and Walt will head to camp 3 tomorrow and attempt the summit on the 18 and or the 19th. Taki and julian are already in bed and preparing for an early start to camp 2 and their summit attempts on the 19th and or 20th. They will add a new and interesting challenge finding their way across the crevace which blocks the start of the route. Sometime during the day today the tenuous snow ridge which has seen dramatically increased traffic and wear and tear, collapsed. It still seems possible to repel down but how to go up is unclear. We look forward to a call tomorrow morning at 5. 30 am with their solution. Fred and I now back from our first summit attempt are resting up and will return to the hill on the 18th to camp 2 and give our last try to the summit from camp 3 on the 20th and 21st. At first I thought a great deal about how demanding the conditions are above 7000 metres on broad peak in what must be called good weather. and that is, very cold and. stiff biting wind. We did not have however gale force winds knocking us over in a blinding white out of snow.

We will return with improved clothing, knowledge and attitude. Walter just returned from 2 nights at camp 3 and John are measuring their respective energies and in the process of deciding what or whether to go up one more time on the hill. are in excellent spirits and are in fact playing cards and telling jokes as I write the blinding ....? light. The combination of strong sun and healthy exercise has left these single young men tanned and fit.........(they made me write that) Alex is resting up in a kerosene heated cook tent warming up wondering what to do with all of his free time. With no cafes and cinemas he will have to contend with camp 2 base camp drinking tea and listening to his cd's. We wish that we all had his problems. It has been a great amount of fun mingling with and learning from the well known new arrivals.

I believe it is important however to thank the unsung heroes who have made it possible for the newer groups to move easily and safely to the launching points of camp 2 and camp 3. Between the bass group and the Korean group the Greek porters Taki and mike Hill and perhaps countless others there are many thousands of feet of fixed line on the mountain.

The hard work is digging out frozen rope, carrying heavy rows of rope spools and snow stakes and retaining those ropes that are relatively unrecognized. Once more none of these people have mentioned anything of this but I hope to do so on the air and last years groups and years before groups ......? I certainly appreciated the fun of repelling and sliding down fixed lines rather than tenuously working my way down increasingly icy and difficult slopes.

On a final note at camp 3 now a one ounce pre wrapped wedge of cheese is traded for either one roll of toilet paper or a 10 kg load taken back down to base camp. Till next time Stu

Dispatches

 

 
 







 

 

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
  
CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
  
Headlamps

   Hestra
  
Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
  
Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
  
Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
  
Yaktrax
  
and more here

 

 



  



Send email to everestnews2004@adelphia.net   •   Copyright© 1998-2003 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it.