A Slovenian Expedition
will attempt to conquer treacherous mountain peak Nanga
Parbat from next month, to coincide with the golden
jubilee year of its successful summit. Tomaz Humar will
lead the ten members expedition to 8125m high mountain.
Team will try to climb in Solo style from Rupal route.
Tomaz is best known for this new line on
Dhaulagiri in 1999 when
he ascended up to approx 8000 meters [he did not summit]
Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS Department of Tourist Services License #333
The press release follows: TOMAŽ HUMAR HAS
LEFT FOR NANGA PARBAT
Ljubljana, June 16, 2003 – Tomaž Humar is
setting on his way to Pakistan today, accompanied by his ten-member team. He
will try to conquer Nanga Parbat in the north-western part of the Himalayas.
The ascent along a new route in the Rupal face is supposed to start on July
10, 2003. This extremely exacting venture should be completed in a fortnight
and he is expected to return to his homeland on July 25, 2003. This morning,
minutes before his departure, Tomaž Humar answered journalists' questions at a
press conference held at Brnik Airport in Ljubljana. His ascent of the south
face of Dhaulagiri in 1999 brought him worldwide fame. He also participated in
seven other Himalayan expeditions and completed ascents along some of the
world's most difficult routes. He has been striving after seemingly impossible
achievements for as long as he can remember; according to him he had the
courage to undertake such challenges because mountaineering was never just a
sport for him, it was a way of life in which mental readiness is more
important than physical one. Meditation, communication and openness to God are
essential for his success.
More than 30 people tried to climb Nanga
Parbat without success, many of them lost their lives in the process, before
Austrian Herman Buhl finally conquered its peak in 1953. This is why Nanga
Parbat is also known as the "Killing Mountain". Humar saw his special
challenge in the nearly 5.000 m high Rupal face, which is considered the
highest mountain face in the world. He first glimpsed at the mountain from a
wheelchair. He got stuck in it for some time after his accident, which
occurred during home repairs in December 2000. Buhl is also one of his
mountaineering models, since he was in a way a pioneer of alpine climbing,
which interests Humar the most. Alpine style is technically the most difficult
style in climbing, but Humar says that the satisfaction of success compensates
for all the efforts: "A face gives you back as much as you invest in it." This
time Humar's decision was not an easy one. His final decision for the attempt
to conquer the mountain came as late as April 2003, after he made sure that
his convalescence is complete. This is why he says this expedition is about
"love at second sight".
Nanga Parbat, the most western Himalayan
peak, is separated from the rest of the mountain ridge and located in the
Pakistani part of Kashmir. With its 8.126 m it is the ninth highest mountain
in the world. Almost 200 people reached its summit after it was first
conquered in 1953, although most of them ascended it along the north side.
Today, there are only three successfully climbed routes along the south Rupal
face: the German-Italian route, climbed in 1970 by Reinhold and Günther
Messner (their success was never repeated), the Polish-Mexican route, set by
Carlos Carsolio and Jerzy Kukuczka, and the Schell route. Humar's goal is to
climb along a direct new route between the Polish-Mexican and the
Once he is on the face, Humar's only way back
is over the summit, which leaves him with two options: to descend along the
Messner route or down the north Diamir face.
As with most of his previous expeditions,
Humar chose the expedition members himself. They include three mountaineers (Tomo
Drolec, Boštjan Repinc, and Matej Mošnik), who are going to help Humar with
his acclimatization ascent along the Messner route and also during the descent
in case of need. Arne Hodalič is going to provide the photographs and daily
reports, Joško Bojić and Stipe Blažić are going to film the expedition with
digital cameras. Any help they should need will be provided by Lado Ogrin,
another mountaineer. Gregor Zupanc will be responsible for communication with
the rest of the world. There are two other members of the expedition: Humar's
personal physician Anda Perdan and bio energy practitioner Nataša Pergar.
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.