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  TOMAŽ HUMAR:  NANGA PARBAT


A Slovenian Expedition is attemptting to conquer Nanga Parbat.  Tomaz Humar is leading the ten members expedition to 8125m high mountain. The Team will try to climb in Solo style from the Rupal route. Tomaz is best known for this new line on Dhaulagiri in 1999 when he ascended up to approx 8000 meters [he did not summit] alpine style...

Update

Tomaz Humar ends expedition to Nanga Parbat before time

The original plan predicted Tomaz Humar to enter the south face of Nanga Parbat on July 10, climbing it along a new route, but he was unable to do so due to extremely bad weather conditions and illness. Following three unsuccessful acclimatization attempts, he ventured along the Messner route for the fourth time last week. He planned to ascend to acclimatization altitude of 7.000 m. The first three days of the ascent were successful. Then he communicated to Base Camp that the conditions in the face are too poor and he is returning to the valley. At the same time, this concluded the expedition.

Unlike Nepal, where main climbing seasons take place in spring and autumn, summer is the most appropriate time for mountaineering in the west of Pakistan. As far as the weather is concerned, Humar has been extremely unlucky from the very beginning. Temperatures in Pakistan have been unusually high for July, which made the snow and ice on the mountain melt constantly. Unusually numerous avalanches rolled down the slopes, and snow along the Messner route, which was to be Humar's acclimatization ascent, was so soft he sank over waist-deep at the altitude of 6.000 m and higher. High temperatures were also accompanied by more precipitations than expected in the last month. Rain and snowfall prevented progress along the Messner route and more than once damaged the tents Humar and his expedition members had alredy set up. Apart from the weather, expedition members also experienced severe health problems. The source of their cyclic stomach problems could not be found, which meant the expedition's doctor Anda Perdan was unable to treat them properly. Their ordeal finally ended with the advice of a Pakistani doctor, more familiar with local diseases: he determined amoeba as the cause of their problems. At least temporarily, this can be treated by administering large doses of antibiotics. More detailed medical tests will be performed once the expedition returns to Ljubljana. Despite the facts that he was much weakened by illness and that temperatures continued to rise every day, Humar decided on Saturday to try and reach the altitude of 7.000 m along the Messner route one last time. By doing this he would complete his acclimatization and could still enter the face along the planned new route in case of favourable weather conditions. Croatian mountaineer Stipe Bozic accompanied him during this acclimatization attempt, and they made good progress for the first three days: on Monday, they reached the altitude of 6.050 m, something that could not be accomplished during previous acclimatization ascents. They also set up Camp III at this altitude. Yesterday, Humar tried to climb to 7.000 m by himself. Conditions in the face were extremely unfavourable: temperatures only dropped below 0şC above 6.000 m, snow was extremely soft and sank waist-deep, sometimes even deeper, and avalanches were released constantly. Once he reached the altitude of 6.500 m, Humar communicated to Base Camp that conditions are too poor an he is returning to the valley. Humar and his expedition members are returning to Slovenia on Friday, July 25.

Earlier Update







 

 

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