Everest Summiter Mohammad Oraz has died while climbing in Pakistan.
Update 9/2003 More details: The Iranian Climber (Mohammad Oraz) was hit by an avalanche
between camp 4 and summit at an altitude of 7850 metes. There were four
climbers were heading towards the summit and all of sudden avalanche hit them.
Two got lost, they showed up after seven hours later, from this all were tied
in two different ropes. While two climbers were hit down and they were
injured. These two Oraz and Mugbil. Mugbil was slightly injured and is still
not in a good condition, for him it was difficult to walk easily. [Mugbil, we
believe is actually Moqbbel Honarpajouh, has been discharged from the
hospital.] Mohammad Oraz, who passed away few days back was badly injured. It took them about
four days to bring him to Advance Base Camp, in a very bad weather. His fellow
climbers made emergency stretcher with sleeping mattresses and fixed
themselves with ropes and dragged him back. They showed us movie of this
rescue, it was hard to watch.
Mr. Agha Jaani president of Iranian
Mountaineering Federation especially came to Pakistan to take care of his
climber. And he spent more than 10 days taking care of his injured climber.
Mohammad Oraz Summited Everest on 5/20/1998 via the standard south east
ridge route. EverestNews.com reported on the expedition in 1998..... Mohammad
Oraz climbed 5 8000 meters since 1998; Everest 1998, Cho Oyu 2000,
Shishapangma 2000, Makalu 2001 and Lhotse 2002.
Update 9/8/2003: Mohammad Oraz who "hit by avalanche at camp 4 and it took
almost 4 days to bring him to camp 1, and from there he was rescued by
helicopter to Skardu and from there again by helicopter he was brought to
Islamabad and was hospitalized for about 10 days", has died. Very very sad
"last night at 10:45 our good friend Mohammad Oraz died while he was in comma. At 10:00 I received a phone call from
hospital telling about the serious condition of Oraiz and that we should be at
the hospital soon as possible. I called Ashraf and Naiknam who were with the
other climbers of both expeditions Iranian GB-I and our Peace and Friendship.
Mohammad was a very nice human being and was very cooperative at during the
whole expedition and at the same time he was a very fine climber. We feel very
sad about the death of such nice man." Essar
Previous updates are below...
Mr. Eghbal Aflaki is
leading the Gasherbrum 1Muhammad expedition with 12 members.
Update: The Iranian
G1 Expedition established camp III few days back. Now due to bad weather they
are at the base camp. The are expecting to start climbing with in next 2 to 3
Update 9/3/2003: The
climbers from Iranian GB-I are now in Islamabad, Mohammad Oraiz who suffered
the accident on the mountain is still in the hospital. Mr. Aga Jani the
President of Iranian Mountaineering Federation is also in Islamabad. Rest of
the members are fine, they came back with no success. From Iranian Spantik we
do not have any information so far, I will let you know something when I get
from the expedition.
Kind Regards Essar Karim