2003 CZECH K2 & BROAD PEAK EXPEDITION

Our Snow God likes us. At least so far - K2 is showing us its better face. Weather is almost perfect, too sunny. It is morning of June 17, 03 here in BC under K2. Two days ago, we went up to 6000m where we established Camp 1. Original plan to go straight up to establish Camp 2 was too ambitious. We have to be very cautious and very well acclimatized. This climb is no joke. Climbing starts with step A, some parts are secured by fixed ropes, some are not. It means that one stupid mistake would be the last one. But I believe we are a good team and we will not make any mistake. Radek and me are on the third expedition together, last year in May, we were standing on the mountain which is only 13 meters lower than this one. Miska and Radek climbed on K2 two years ago. I did not know Miska before this trip but we are getting along very well. He knows how to play chess ! And he plays it well. In chess - the same like in climbing, compatibility is winner and ticket to enjoyment.

We pitched our tent near the tents of Spanish group. Three Spaniards established the route under the House's Chimney - one of them crux of the lower part of the south-east face. There are lots of old fixed ropes from previous years but each needs to be carefully checked. We are still bringing our own ropes for more difficult parts. I was warned about the small spots for the tents. I did not quite know how small these will be. Eagle's nest is appropriate term. Each platform has to be chopped in the ice which is lots of work in this altitude. And it is not going to get any easier higher up.

Today, we are spending the day, resting, listening to music and making plans and strategy. Weather seems to hold up and we are planning to return to the mountain tomorrow, hopefully to establish Camp 2 and bring the load for higher camps. Thanks to our cook Fida ( Peter), his brother in law Muhammad as well as liaison officer, captain Muhammad Usman, our stay in BC is pleasant. Family tragedies are following us however. Fida - our cook lost his wife last year in the spring and while he is cooking for us, his old mother is taking care of his five children. On the other side, Radek's father got terminally ill this spring. Not any more. He passed away few days after we left for Pakistan, seems like he was just waiting for Radek to leave.

Hopefully luck will be on our side from now on.

Martin Minarik Written on notebook ASUS - ATComputers

Dispatches

 

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