SEVERAL DAYS WITH COMMUNICATIONS PROBLEMS WITH THE SATELLITE PHONE OF THE
ANDALUCÍA K2 EXPEDITION, SPONSORED BY CONSEJERÍA DE TURISMO Y DEPORTE THROUGH
DEPORTE ANDALUZ, WE ATTACH THE LAST INFORMATION RECEIVED FROM THE ANDALUCIAN
EXPEDITION WHO IS ATTEMPTING TO REACH THE SUMMIT OF K2. STRONG SNOWFALLS HAVE
PREVENTED THE HIGH ALTITUDE WORKS, WHICH MEANS THAT THE ANDALUCIAN TEAM IS
PLANNING TO EXTEND THEIR ADVENTURE A FEW MORE DAYS.
NEWS BREAKING NEWS BREAKING NEWS
Andalucía K2. July 11, 2003
A group of
four climbers and two high altitude carriers have reached C1, with the
intention of continuing to C2 in the next few days; Swiss climbers and
carriers will join our leading group tomorrow at C2 and we hope to reach C3
day after tomorrow. A second team also leaves tomorrow from BC with four
support climbers with the intention of spending the night in C1. We hope the
weather lets us finish successfully this new attempt to reach C3. Let's
remember that the route with fixed lines is very close to it.
the works up to C3, we have decided to count only with the Swiss expedition,
because the rest of the groups are in BC now, showing very little (if any)
interest, to work on the opening of the route.
INSTALLATION OF C3 WILL BE A DEFINITIVE STEP TO START THE SUMMIT ATTEMPTS
K2 B. C., July 8, 2003
the days of 2 and 4 we have been able to stock up C2 and leave everything
ready to reach C3, although we keep waiting for a good weather window that
lets us do it. We are going through the most unstable weather period since we
got to BC.
Pakistani and a Sherpa from the Swiss expedition were able to get very close
to C3 on the 4th and they fixed 750 meters of line, since that day it has been
tried to reach the place again, but it has been impossible. Today all the
climbers who were in the high altitude camps have gone down to BC due to the
current snowfalls. An avalanche has destroyed two tents from other
expeditions in C1, with nobody inside at that moment.
installation of C3 above 7,300 meters will be a definitive step to begin the
two summit attempts we have planned. Because of all the activity done during
the first month, there is some disappointment in the air of the BC tent. We
hope that the days of waiting go fast, to go back to the hillsides of K2. We
trust that the good weather forecasts come after the 12th.
As you can
deduct from this chronicle, very little of what was agreed in the previous
expeditions meeting has been carried out. The Czechs opened some of the route
up to a cliff we didn't know existed in the Black Pyramid and came back down,
the International expedition who was going to equip, only went to C2 to stock
it up. Well... Great climbing projects: with the opening of new lines,
without high altitude carriers; to use the carriers from other expeditions or
ascents to two eight-thousands: Broad and K2, like the Czechs who are already
in Broad, but how? Without seriousness, without plans, without... much
ANDALUCIAN EXPEDITION TO BROAD REACHES C2 AT 6,500 METERS
little more luck with the weather on Broad, the Andalucians Lina and Ricardo
have reached C2 quickly, spending their first night of acclimatization at C1.
The Broad Problem is in the high zone, where the great accumulation of snow
has prevented the attempt of Han, the Korean, who hopes to make his 14th
eight-thousand and Jean Troillet and two other Swiss climbers who tried in the
Alpine style. Also three Navarra and Vasque climbers, who are part of an
international expedition, gave up on the 5th. To this day, everybody is at BC
because of bad weather.
- How was
the first contact with the mountain?
It's a totally wild terrain and with unforeseeable weather conditions, great
and spectacular surrounded by these eight-thousand-meters giants.
- What are
your plans for the next days?
- LINA: We
are hoping for an improvement in the weather to climb to finish stocking Camp
2 and from there, continue to install 3 and 4 and acclimatizing better each
day at higher altitudes. Manuel González.
AND LIGHTS OF KARAKORUM
is probably the most rugged and chaotic mountain system on earth. In this
terrain, as grand as hostile, voyagers who pay attention can discover singular
elements of rare beauty. Mountains with vertiginous forms and magic lights
which capture the heart of men.
the entrance to the Baltoro Glacier, just in the limit of the torrid gravel
pits with the ice, we could appreciate how the wind, the heat and the
suspended dust generated and environment just like the desert. Gray lights
filtered through sand clouds under the slim summit triangle of the first great
mountain of Baltoro, the Mango Gusor.
the glacier, in "Urdukas", we were witnesses, in a cold and clear night, of
the value of one of the great jewels of the mountain system: the sky. Radiant
stars and planets over the almost perfect cylinder, of the Tower Without a
Name and the baroque pinnacles of the Earth Cathedrals.
"Concordia", under the mate light of the snow fall, we felt little while
realizing, in between the clearings of the storm, the great dimensions of the
great semicircular "plaza" made by the Godwin Austen and Abruzzos glaciers
which form the Baltoro.
At K2 Base
Camp we were overwhelmed under the most enormous pyramid of the planet when,
lit up by the falling sun, the orange light rays of the summit reached the
daybreak, on our way to the Abruzzos Spur, the blue lights of dawn flooded our
senses with the extraordinary reappearing of the darkness of the immense
trapeze that closes the view to the south: the Chogolisa, the white edges
first high altitude camp, the three cones of Broad Peak symbolize the
quietness of dusk on the mountain system. Unreachable rocks that cast ochre
toned lights under intense blues.
we are almost at 7,000 meters of altitude in the elusive spur, we are
impressed, at birds view, by the formidable glaciers tongues, very long
sinuous bands of ice that circle mountains of different profiles and which
gather the magic lights of Karakorum. JAVIER SÁNCHEZ
WHICH PRECEDE DECISIVE MOMENTS
climb any eight-thousand-meter mountain supposes the acceptance of "special"
game rules. Among them, the forced inactivity in bad weather periods. Under
these circumstances, keeping a cold head, not losing your nerves and
calculating the suitable movements, constitute the added value for any
descended for the last time to Camp II and said hello to our ineffable cook
Ali Riza, he sentenced, with eloquence and with the accumulated experience of
more than 10 summers working on the Baltoro, "good weather going, bad weather
coming". It didn't look bad then. JAVIER SÁNCHEZ
from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
Pictures and text copyright
ANDALUCIA K2 expedition