Andalucía, July 22, 2003:
All the Andalucian climbers in B. C.
At 13:20 hours of Tuesday 22, the three
climbers from Andalucía K2 who were in the mountain have arrived to Base
Camp. 'Lolo' González, Fernando Fernández-Vivancos and Manuel Morales are
already with the rest of their teammates. Terribly tired and very hungry, the
three Andalucians have arrived to B. C. where they will rest for the next
hours and will decide on the steps to follow in the next days. The weather
forecasts are good for the next days and there is still a chance for a new
This morning, on Tuesday, July 22, we have been able to talk again with
them and they could confirm that Manuel Salazar, from Jerez, is already at B.
C. and they are waiting for the arrival of Manuel González, Fernando
Fernández-Vivancos and Manuel Morales around 11:30 in the morning.
All the climbers have retreated from the mountain.
A period of reflection, analysis and wait is needed. Javier Sánchez.
The Andalucía K2 Expedition will try
Amparo Ortega, Jorge Vázquez and Juanjo
Garra will do the attempt
Alliance with an international expedition
and one from Kazakhstan
The Andalucía K2 Expedition, sponsored by
Consejería de Turismo y Deporte will attempt again to reach the summit of K2.
On this occasion Amparo Ortega, from Granada, Jorge Vázquez, from Sevilla,
along with Juajo Garra will be the ones trying to reach the 8,611 meters of
the summit of 'Chogori' - God of the Mountains in Balti language - or K2.
The summit attempt could be on Saturday
26; the weather forecast is good for that date although the wind will be
present in the next two days. At this moment an international expedition -
which has a climber from Navarra - and another from Kazakhstan have begun the
ascent. The leading mountaineers will try to break the ice of the trail of
the great serac where Manuel Morales and Fernando Fernández-Vivancos were
forced to give up, at around 8,300 meters of altitude.
The rest of the Andalucian team will
remain at B. C. in radio contact with the other expeditions, to transmit the
Andalucians if there is a possibility to open and to fix lines in the trail
which goes from the bottleneck up to the summit. If it isn't so, the
Andalucians will deactivate the different high altitude camps and will not try
We are waiting to get more complete
information and pictures of the last scenes from the Base Camp of Andalucía
from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
We received the
following chronicle from the Base Camp the Andalucía
K2, from the chief of the expedition 'Lolo' González,
who this morning has had a telephone conversation
with the chairman of Consejería de Turismo y Deporte
de la Junta de Andalucía, Antonio Ortega. The
chairman has sent his encouragement to the
Andalucian climbers and has shown his worry for the
integrity of the members of the Andalucian team in
the next summit attempt.
FIRST SUMMIT ATTEMPT, UP TO 8,200 METERS
THE 24TH BEGINS WITH A SECOND ATTEMPT TO
REACH THE SUMMIT
B. C. Andalucía K2. July 23, 2003
On the 18th, after one month waiting for
the weather to improve and still having days of wind and fog to ascend to the
lower camps, we managed to get to C3. The plan had intentions to go much
higher. Counting with good forecasts for five days, our objectives were to go
to the summit of K2 along with the Swiss.
On July 20th Julio Morales and Fernando
go to C4 with the help of the carrying made by Salazar and Lolo. The install
a tent at 7,700 meters, a little far from the final slopes of K2, but in a
proper situation considering the potential of the Swiss team, who during the
afternoon opened the trail up to the foot of the Bottleneck.
A failure in the communications system
left the different camps cut off and the decisive events of the leading group
can't be followed. It is 10:30 when a group of 10 climbers exit the tents.
At 2 the reach the Bottleneck going without problems, the ascent of this known
corridor is done without finding especial difficulties because of the snow in
good conditions, but... The trail has a very hard ice shield. Morales and
Fernando watch the climbers ahead and realize fast that they won't be able to
pass with the material they have so they decide to retreat. Our first attempt
to reach the summit of K2 ends at 8,200 meters.
Morales and Fernando dismount C4 at 9
hours (on the 21st ) and join Lolo at C3, continuing with the descent down to
BC, where the second group of Andalucian mountaineers were visiting.
Tomorrow, the group of mountaineers will
return, Fernando and Javier. The other six climbers will stay one more week
to attempt the summit again. Amparo, Juanjo and Jorge, will go back to the
high altitudes to try the summit again around the 27th.
For this new attempt, there are good
weather forecasts which will allow going to the summit without wind on
Saturday, and two teams of climbers have departed from BC today to try to pass
the ice of the trail. This action will be definitive for the continuity of
our expedition. Among the climbers who will form this new attempt are Iñaki
Ochoa, from Navarra, with whom we have tried to coordinate and to cooperate in
the attempt. Andalucía K2. Manuel González.
Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
Pictures and text copyright
ANDALUCIA K2 expedition