ANDALUCÍA K2 OPTS TO RETREAT
Andalucía K2 Expedition, sponsored by Consejería de Turismo y Deporte through
Deporte Andaluz, has decided to retreat. The weather conditions are very
unstable and dangerous on the summit of the mountain. This is the last
information received from Base camp.
Andalucía K2, July 27, 2003 THE 2nd SUMMIT ATTEMPT: Cold, wind and verticality
to be today at C3, waiting for an improvement in the weather conditions
Ahead of us are the Kazakhs and Denis who are attempting the summit from 2:30
hours. It looks like a suicide attempt because of the wind blowing on C4.
NEWS: WE GIVE UP THE ATTEMPT BECAUSE OF VERY BAD WEATHER CONDITIONS
On the 26
our group decides to go to C3 even with wind and cold, behind like the others
always leave, how to qualify these situations?
NEWS: THEY DECIDE TO RETREAT FROM C3, AND WE WILL LEAVE BC IN THE NEXT DAYS
Relative humidity very high at 7,000 m, every day. Snowfalls on Sunday. Fog
at 50%, low on Monday and goes up fast. Winds of up to 75 Km/h at 8,000 m,
from Monday and at 7,000 from Tuesday.
OF THE GROUPS JULY 7 - 9:30 HOURS (PK)
INTERNATIONAL GROUP AND KAZAKH GROUP 1: DENIS WAITS AT C4. DURING THE EARLY
MORNING THEY HAVE GIVEN UP THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT.
GROUP: retreats from C3.
GROUP 2: at C3.
PIRIRIRIPIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII. GO FOR ...
K2. Manuel González B. C. Andalucía K2, July 26, 2003
Second Update: Andalucía, July 28, 2003
MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION WHO MADE THE SECOND ATTEMPT ARE ALREADY AT Base
prevents the conquest of the summit where nobody has stepped upon since July
Andalucian team will arrive to Málaga airport on August 7
Andalucía K2 Expedition, sponsored by Consejería de Turismo y Deporte, decided
yesterday 27 to end their attempt to conquest the summit of K2. Winds of more
than 70 Km/h and temperatures below -40 degrees Celsius have prevented them
from stepping on the summit which no human has reached since July 2001. We
attach pictures and the last information written from BC by the Chief of the
Expedition Lolo González.
CHIMNEY: Descending the House Chimney, yesterday 27, in the morning.
FROM THE PYRAMID: going down in the storm using fixed lines on the Black
AT BC: The
three members of the second attempt Amparo Ortega, Jorge Vázquez and Juanjo
Garra, recently arrived to BC.
Andalucía K2, July 28, 2003
FRIENDS. NOW THAT WE ARE ALL AT BC, WE WILL CELEBRATE TODAY THE END OF THIS
GREAT ADVENTURE. WE WILL BE BACK HOME ON THE 7TH, WE ARE WISHING FOR BEER AND
AT BC AGAIN, HAPPINESS AND CALM.
PREPARATIONS FOR OUR RETURN BEGIN, THE ARRIVAL WILL BE AUGUST 7, AT 20:50
HOURS AT MALAGA'S AIRPORT.
ANDALUCIA K2 EXPEDITION REACHED 8,200 METERS ON JULY 22 AND VERY BAD WEATHER
CONDITIONS PREVENTED THE SECOND ATTEMPT FROM GETTING BEYOND CAMP THREE.
as hard as the ascent of this second attempt, makes all of us to be back at BC
again. Happiness and calm for being together at our home since the last 53
be a day of celebration: up to 8,200 meters on K2; we have not reached the
summit, but we are happy. We have taken advantage of a unique period of good
weather of more than 4 days in our 53 day stay at the bottom of this mountain.
preparations for our return begin, to be back to our yearning Andalucian land
along with our families, who we wish to see since weeks ago. In the next two
days we will pack and make an inventory, but this time with the inverse
illusion that brought us to Pakistan. To go back to Andalucía.
30 End with packing and arrival of the carriers to BC.
31 BC - Ali camp.
1 Ali camp -
2 Sajcho -
3 Skardu -
4 Chilas -
7 PK 785 - 10:20 H -
14:40 H ISLAMABAD - LONDRES
ib 139 - 17:15 H -
20:50 H LONDRES - MALAGA
BEGINNING OF A NEW ADVENTURE: Today it all comes to an end, or to the
beginning of a new adventure. This first adventure on K2 remains in
our lives. What a mountain! I have had to give my best on
it, in every aspect, as a sportsman and as a person... I believe that I have
given myself to the maximum (almost always, because we have to go down later),
to get where we had. What a satisfaction and what a pain; there is no summit
and in this sports we know that there is or there isn't. If the latter
happens, there is still something to do in this mountain.
are for the first time in K2, you give experience and technique to the
maximum. When you finish you realize that it has been good but that you have
to change some things, which you considered valid for every eight thousand:
You have to act different here, you have to climb with other concepts of
difficulty, altitude and mobility.
K2 is the
mountain of mountains and that you surely don't know until you climb its
hillsides. Today I feel more admiration than ever for those who have opened a
new route in these walls or for those who have climbed not much frequented
CLIMBERS: In these days we have been able to see the evolution of
Himalayas-ism, or better, of eightthousand-ism. I once participated in an
expedition to Everest by the South Col and well..., we were zillions and
Sherpas were in charge of fixing the lines, which is normal by Nepal and
Tibet; although some famous climbers say in their speeches that they fixed or
stocked the camps themselves. Until now I participated without finding
anybody in the route as now on K2. I feel sorry for eightthousand-ism, many
people pass by these mountains for mere publicity or for collection: I have
confirmed how the ascents are catalogued ALPINE STYLE, when the route has been
climbed by a route completely fixed with lines. Fortunately, nobody has
catalogued their ascent as solo (for the moment), in routes (Abruzzos or the
normal Broad) with many climbers. I have seen how they left you all the work
of opening the trail and fixing lines, ascending in the afternoon to install a
tent. I have seen climbers reach K2's BC to open a new route and not being
able to reach C3 to spend the night. I have seen many MAGAZINE CLIMBERS, and
few people who tell the reality of mountain climbing. I feel sorry for them
and I respect them; and to the media who give them space: I ask for some
it's simply what you can say to such a majestic mountain. Manuel González.
Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
Pictures and text copyright
ANDALUCIA K2 expedition