K2 2003: ANDALUCÍA K2 EXPEDITION

THE ANDALUCIAN EXPEDITION ASSUMES THE RESPONSIBILITY TO LEAD THE ASCENT TO K2.                  UPDATE 12 + 1

ALMOST ALL THE EXPEDITIONS ARE AT K2's Base camp

During days we have been working hard to consolidate C2, each time we are more certain that possibly the C1 - C2 trail is the most complicated of the ascent to this mountain; not forgetting the last 650 meters of the climb.  The work of the last days is based on the fixation of new lines on the route and to consolidate our camp two with the installation of a second tent and the stocking of gas and food that will be consumed in the next days.

During the work to equip the route, we have installed more than 1,500 meters of fixed lines between advanced base camp and C2.  Besides 140 meters installed by three Czechs, all the job is under our responsibility. The following expeditions are at the base of the mountain:

-          International: 3 climbers

-          Madrid: 3 climbers

-          Swiss: 10 climbers

-          Czech: 3 climbers

With the presence of so many climbers at the base of K2, we hope to have more help in the next days with the work on the route and we have more production than what the Czech expedition is doing now... They have just installed a little more than 100 meters of rope, and they have not opened a palm of trail, but they should all be very strong because they have spent two nights at C2.  To valuate them better, let's not forget that they carried 300 meters of lines to C1. That along with the Madrid expedition's and ours are the only ones that hang rope from the sides of K2. 

To do the work so far, we have spent 22 days of BC, working with bad weather, although we should better not complain and although we have not had more than three days in a row of good weather, having 10 acceptable days is something good.  We need to mention our weatherman Javier Corripio, who is doing excellent work and especially accurate.

The team is doing fine and although we've had some problems, Fernando joined the works, while Salazar continues with his fast but hard recovery, maybe next week we will all be to our maximum again.  Working with teammates who give themselves as these do, and with an idea so clear and fixed like this one to reach the summit of this difficult mountain, makes me happy and honors me. Andalucía deserves more and more each time to be on the summit of K2.

All the mountaineers who are at BC, because of the bad weather above, will dedicate next week to improve our acclimatization and to prepare everything to install C3. We are going to have a meeting of all the chiefs of expeditions in our BC, to coordinate the works of installing lines up to C3. Manuel González

INTERESTING DATA

CAMPS

BASE CAMP (BC) 4,950 METERS                        D: JUNE 5.

ADVANCED BASE CAMP (ABC) 5,200 METERS       T: JUNE 7

                                                                  D: JUNE 8

CAMP 1 (C1) 5,950 METERS                             T: JUNE 10

                                                                  D : JUNE 11 

CAMP 2 (C2) 6,600 METERS                             T : JUNE 17 

                                                                  D : JUNE 26

T : FIRST DAY THAT THE MARK WAS REACHED D: FIRST DAY WHEN CLIMBERS SLEPT

WEATHER CONDITIONS

-          10 days of good weather

-          8 days of bad weather

-          6 days of regular to bad weather

PAKISTANI TEAM

LINK OFFICER: Amir (24 years old)

SIRDAR: Ibrahim Akhon (46)

COOK: Ali Rizia (35)

PINCHE: Ali Mosa (18) 

HIGH ALTITUDE CARRIER: Golam Heder (36) 

HIGH ALTITUDE CARRIER: Ahmat (36) 

ONE DAY IN THE ASCENT OF K2: We are at C1 to finish the works of equipping the lines up to C2, it will be my third day of climbing in this sector of the mountain and although I already know the route, I am invaded by fears and doubts.  We are five climbers and we will divide the work in two: one group for the inferior zone and the second up to C2.

At 12 hours an alarm clock rings and we begin the preparations, the night has no moon and it is cold, we hardly talk and the triggers of our blocking fists are opened as soon as possible, to begin the ascent through the first sections with new lines, which we fixed a few days before, until the snow sent us down to BC.  The darkness gives a new character to the ascent: nobody talks, each of us deep within our thoughts.  Focusing on our work, opening the trail, carrying ropes.  Don't stop... it is cold.  The waning mood appears on our backs, trying to accompany us, the light is still only the white one coming from our headlamps.  Around 4 in the morning it starts to get clear, with the light of dawn the good rope ends.  The headlamps go off.  The stops begin.  I remember my little daughter Alba.  The sun begins to makes us happy... Juanjo goes with us up to the bottom of House Chimney, Morales and I continue, fears to try this vertical part with old lines and after Fernando's accident; the 20 meter ladder installed by Salarzar, and which we have Christianized by the name of Saint Peter, is great help.  I am above, good!  I fix the new line, I fix the header again and I yell to Morales to climb.  After sometime we are in C2.  There is a little wind but the day is good.  We are in K2.  One hour and a half later we are in C1.  During the descent we meet the Czechs who are climbing to spend the night in C2. They are really strong.  We have spent 11 hours to make the pass safe, they would need only 3 hours to reach C2.  I think those are different ways to climb K2.  LOLO Translated from Spanish to Jorge Rivera

Dispatches

Pictures and text copyright ANDALUCIA K2 expedition

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