Follow Along: Reinhold
Messner says, in his book The Naked Mountain, that after completing the first
trip to Nanga Parbat, in 1972, he reached the village of Ser in the Diamir
Valley, tired to death. His brother Gunther was left behind, buried by a
sudden avalanche, when both were looking at the green and wide praire where
base camp is settled today, on the west face of Nanga Parbat. Check
here for the full dispatch.
Three in one. This is the unusual name
for the international expedition in Karakorum in 2003.
The emblem is the Kazakhstan flag that has the same
We declared that we want to climb three peaks and we
obtained three permits from the Pakistani Government. The expedition will be
ONE and in succession will try to complete this monstrous project. reaching
the three peaks Nanga Parbat (8125 meters),
K2 (8611 meters), and Broad
Peak (8047 meters). The three all very tough, in the family of the 8000
mountains. The project of summiting all three, in little more than 2 months
will be tough, but not impossible. The team members are 8 Kazaki alpinists.
Simone Moro and Inaki Ochoa. Other strong climbers such as Ed Viesturs (USA),
(FRA) and Oscar Gogorza (ESP)
will be with the team for Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak. Barbara Zwerger, Silvio
Mondinelli and Alberto Magliano (ITA) will be with us for Broad Peak. Franco
Nicolini and Mirco Mezzanotte (ITA) will go for Nanga. This one single strong
team, built on previous climbs will live this Marathon in the next two months.
Nobody will use oxygen or high altitude porters. Small
groups will try to reach their goals, alternating for personal and team
success. Our expedition is not commercial or for newcomers. Everybody has
previous experiences in 8000 summits. Nonetheless we have no illusion that
even one single summit will be easy. "Dream is not forbidden, but in the
mountains it is". We have worked and climbed for years on rocks, ice, high
altitude and now we can dream of these mountains in succession. It is no bet,
only a step, long as our legs. Simone Moro