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Ukraine Karakorum G I/Trango Tower Expedition 2003


 (page down for the current update...)

At the end of June have started the “Ukraine-Karakoram-2003” expedition. It is organized and held by Ukrainian Mountaineering Federation. The head of expedition is Valentin Simonenko, the Federation President. The expedition includes two teams for different peaks and different climb styles. The first is Mt. Hidden Peak (8068m), new route, SW face, the leader is famous high altitude mountaineer Vladislav Terzyul (who has 11 of the 14 8000 meter summits), and the second is Trango Tower (6257 m), NW face, around 2000m long, the leader is one of the best Ukrainian rock climber Vladimir Mogyla. This two challenging and pioneering climbs are dedicated to Gold Everest Jubilee.

Ukrainian Hidden Peak Expedition 2003

  1. Simonenko, Valentin                      
  2. Gorbenko, Mstislav                   
  3. Zagirnyak,  Mykhaylo              
  4. Terzyul, Vladislav                      
  5. Yevchev, Mykhaylo                   
  6. Pestrikov, Vladimir                     
  7. Pugachov, Sergiy                      
  8. Kovalov, Sergiy                       
  9. Goryunov, Mykola       
  10. Taran, Georgiy               
  11. Lebedenko, Volodymyr        
  12. Matsak, Oleksiy                   
  13. Rostalnoy, Oleksandr         

Ukrainian Trango Tower Expedition 2003

  1. Mogila Volodymyr   
  2. Yarechevskyy Vitaliy 
  3. Zhylin Oleksiy  
  4. Lavrynenko Oleksandr 
  5. Vlasenko Oleksandr  
  6. Savel’yiv Igor    
  7. Matsak Oleksiy 

Update: On 23rd of July the Ukrainian team under leadership of famous high altitude mountaineer Vladislav Terzuyl reached the summit G1 via normal route. Besides him summited Nikolay Goryunov (Kiev) and Sergey Pugachov (Donetsk). They climbed in alpine style without supplementary oxygen. The team dedicated the attainment to Vladimir Pesrtikov Memory, the member of the expedition, good friend, great mountaineer and climbing partner. He was Mt. Lhotse and Mt. Dhaulagiri summiter, one could see his reports about his 8-thousunders expeditions on www.everestnews.com  pages.  

Primarily the team planned original route via SW face but after tragedy they have lost Vladimir and S. Kovalov was injured. So the climbing appeared to be hardly possible at all. Nevertheless the team of four members started climb classic route on July 20. The scheduling according to Nikolay Goryunov messages:

20.07 – leave BC for C1

21.07 – ascent from C1 to C2 (6300m), the rest of the day taking gear up to 6700m via Japanese gully.

22.07 – ascent from C2 to C3 (about 7300m) took about 10 hours, we met Iranian team on fixed ropes and had lost the speed.

23.07 – started at 4.10 a.m. of Islamabad time. Very long snowy slopes and gullies,  tough and icy. We move slowly, no fixed ropes. As higher as slower we move. M. Yevchev stopped climbing around 11.00 and had been waiting for us on safe place. The summit seems to be close but it took about 3 hours to contest ourselves and go step by step. 100 m before summit we have been surprised to see fixed rope, then short ridge and at 14.10 summit! About 15.00 we start descend, move cautiously using rope by turn, steep and long slopes. It got dark about 20.00. At 22.30 we had come to C3.

24.07 – the weather is getting worse, blizzard and poor visibility. Come to C2 and meet Spanish, Italian and other climbers there.  Have short rest and proceed descend to C1.

At C1 we have a good rest, sleep and drink much. Late morning start to go to BC. The glacier South Gasherbrum have been changed radically – extremely cracked, we pass it very cautiously. On the way to BC doctor, cook, Nazar-Karim meet us and take some gear. We come to BC with light backpacks – only 20 kg.

The climbing ended and we commemorate Vladimir.  

Then the expedition move to Trango camp to support the other part of our team.

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