Page down for Trango Tower (the Great) News
At the end of June have
started the “Ukraine-Karakoram-2003” expedition. It is
organized and held by Ukrainian Mountaineering
Federation. The head of expedition is Valentin
Simonenko, the Federation President. The expedition
includes two teams for different peaks and different
climb styles. The first is Mt. Hidden Peak (8068m), new
route, SW face, the leader is famous high altitude
Vladislav Terzyul (who has 11
of the 14 8000 meter summits), and the second is
Trango Tower (6257 m), NW face, around 2000m long, the
leader is one of the best Ukrainian rock climber
Vladimir Mogyla. This two challenging and pioneering
climbs are dedicated to Gold Everest Jubilee.
Ukrainian Hidden Peak
Ukrainian Trango Tower
On 23rd of July the Ukrainian
team under leadership of famous high altitude mountaineer Vladislav Terzuyl
reached the summit G1 via normal route. Besides him summited Nikolay Goryunov
(Kiev) and Sergey Pugachov (Donetsk). They climbed in alpine style without
supplementary oxygen. The team dedicated the attainment to Vladimir Pesrtikov
Memory, the member of the expedition, good friend, great mountaineer and
climbing partner. He was Mt. Lhotse and Mt. Dhaulagiri summiter, one could see
his reports about his 8-thousunders expeditions on
Primarily the team planned
original route via SW face but after tragedy they have lost Vladimir and S.
Kovalov was injured. So the climbing appeared to be hardly possible at all.
Nevertheless the team of four members started climb classic route on July 20.
The scheduling according to Nikolay Goryunov messages:
20.07 – leave BC for C1
21.07 – ascent from C1 to C2
(6300m), the rest of the day taking gear up to 6700m via Japanese gully.
22.07 – ascent from C2 to C3
(about 7300m) took about 10 hours, we met Iranian team on fixed ropes and had
lost the speed.
23.07 – started at 4.10 a.m.
of Islamabad time. Very long snowy slopes and gullies, tough and icy. We move
slowly, no fixed ropes. As higher as slower we move. M. Yevchev stopped
climbing around 11.00 and had been waiting for us on safe place. The summit
seems to be close but it took about 3 hours to contest ourselves and go step
by step. 100 m before summit we have been surprised to see fixed rope, then
short ridge and at 14.10 summit! About 15.00 we start descend, move cautiously
using rope by turn, steep and long slopes. It got dark about 20.00. At 22.30
we had come to C3.
24.07 – the weather is
getting worse, blizzard and poor visibility. Come to C2 and meet Spanish,
Italian and other climbers there. Have short rest and proceed descend to C1.
At C1 we have a good rest,
sleep and drink much. Late morning start to go to BC. The glacier South
Gasherbrum have been changed radically – extremely cracked, we pass it very
cautiously. On the way to BC doctor, cook, Nazar-Karim meet us and take some
gear. We come to BC with light backpacks – only 20 kg.
The climbing ended and we
Then the expedition move to
Trango camp to support the other part of our team.
Update: Our second team
succeeded in Trango climbing:
||On the 2nd of August Ukrainian team of four
members summited Trango Tower (the Great). They climbed NW face new
challenging big wall route via left buttress. Now they have descended to
BC. Back way took them about 2.5 days in bad weather - over 5000m snow and
heavy shower below.
Summiters: Mogila Volodymyr the leader, Yarechevskyy Vitaliy,
Zhylin Oleksiy, Lavrynenko Oleksandr.
Best Wishes, Liudmila
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