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 News of the expedition BASK-LATOK III

 

EverestNews.com received this report early on the 20th: One member Mr. Igor Barikhin of Russian Latok III Expedition led by Alexander Odintsov has passed away. In an email from Russia, Mr. Ivan the organizer of the expedition informed us. This Sunday, the other members of the expedition will inform us in detail and I will let you know. Essar Karim

 

We contracted the Russians and suggested they contact the team... Note we held this news until after the Russians were notified.

 

Update 7/21/2001: The report of Alexander Odintsov.

 

We just come down from the Wall. We have had an accident. At the altitude about 6200, after a wild stonefall, IGOR BARIKHIN was swept from the wall and fallen down with the rope. It happened the day before yesterday (July 19th). We started to climb down immediately. And the way down took us 2 days. All the other climbers are OK. Tomorrow we will go to the foothill to try to search the body of our dead friend. Though there are a very few chance to find him. He fallen about 1,5 kilometers. I will call later. Alexander Odintsov

 

Source our friends at risk.ru

 

The official report... http://www.risk.ru/auto/msg/2001/07/21/1179_8.html 

 

July 18th: Nothing to say about July 17th. All the story you can read in the Anderson's fairy tale "The Snow Queen", the part with the description of her kingdom. Snow, wind, low clouds, hanging on the mountain and covering the base camp. Cold, wet. Hopeless. 

 

In the evening the snow storm became easier. There were the small sunny spells among the clouds and the hope came back with them. Next day the hope will come true.

 

The morning was cloudy, but the clouds were high and cut. But on the Latok wall - the clouds were dense. And boys could not get what was going on with the weather. On the radio connection in 10 a.m. I gave them a hope and the knights started to move.

 

And really, the weather to the midday became better, just a good one. While the boys pulled all the tents and bugs [?] by the fixed ropes the second part of day began. Odintsov decided to reach the "tomahawk". I remind you that so called "tomahawk" is the big weight snow spot very high located and you guess it has a form of "tomahawk".

 

"Tomahawk" is a kind of mystic thing. They were going to reach it three days ago. But it like a horizon line, all the time moved somewhere far and higher. It looked only one pitch to it! Finally today, party Odintsov-Barikhin reached the wishing place.

 

Alexander said that the climb was not very difficult, but a lot of "alive" stones just a bit clued by ice and covered by snow after a storm. So they had a problems with the protection points. And in the end, at 6.30 p.m. Alexander was on the "head of "tomahawk". Then they will climb straight up by the center of rock pillar. They climbed about 4/5 of the wall. The altitude - more then 6 000 meters. Mikhail Bakin, doctor

July 15th-16th: The weather is getting worse. On July 15th the weather was unstable. The strong wind was strong but it was possible to work. The climb is difficult and twisting. In spite of the bad weather yesterday the party Klenov-Davy climbed 4 pitches. Alexander Klenov said that in about 20 meters there would be a curve and he felt the change of relief. On the same level the camp was moved. I can not see exactly through the clouds but it looks like the team is now near the "head of tomahawk " a bit left.

 

Mikhail Bakin Base Camp, Latok III

 

July 10th. The third day of the climb. The speed of the ascent is very high, faster then I expected. If you look at the photo of the wall, a bit left from the center you see the big pillar with three snow tents on the upper part. So, after the second bivouac, the team almost reached the middle part of the pillar. As far as I know nobody has climbed up above this level (on this climb). Unfortunately today we have had the problem with the radio connections so I can not detail the climb, amount of pitches etc. All the information is based only on my visual observation. At the moment the team is a bit lower then the center of wall, counting from 5000 meters.  Mikhail Bakin 

 

All the information you can find here: http://www.risk.ru/eng/projects/bigwall/index.html

 

News of the expedition BASK-LATOK III 7/6/2001

 

Doctor Michael Bakin reports from Pakistan: "Today I visited the guys on the mountain. Tomorrow they will start." 

 

All they are well. Tomorrow July 7th they will start at 3am. I met each of them. This year we are working ahead of schedule. 

 

Doctor Michael Bakin

All the information you can find here:
http://www.risk.ru/eng/projects/bigwall/index.html

 

Update 7/3/2001: I've got news from Russian Latok III Expedition. Today by 10:00 PM, we received a phone call from the Latok Base Camp from Alexander Odintsov leader of Russian Latok III Expedition. He said, weather is fine and we hope to make the summit in few days. Here at base camp every thing is fine and every body is doing well, he added. They have already established camp II. More news will be coming soon. Essar Karim

Update 7/4/2001: News of the expedition BASK-LATOK III

 

Ivan, the porters with gas and medicine just arrived. Everything is OK.  Tomorrow, the 5th,  we will head to the wall base. July 6th we will establish the advance base camp, will carry the gear. And probably (if nothing happens) we will start the climb on July 7th. As for the weather forecast, we didn't receive it. The forecast that was sent us (that the bad weather will stop on 4th and the good one will start from 5th) seems not to be true. The weather is still unstable. It rains every day up to 5 times a day, and the snow near the mountain. All the best! Don't be bored without us. Cheers. Odintzov from the Latok III base camp. 

 

All the information you can find here:
http://www.risk.ru/eng/projects/bigwall/index.html

Update 6/30/2001: News of the expedition BASK-LATOK III

 

The situation is as following. Today we came back from 4-days acclimatisation climb. We climbed Latok-6 all together (including doctor). We slept on the summit. Everything is OK. The only problem: the gas still has not arrived. We called to Islamabad, NikNam confirmed that the gas arrived on June 24th only. The weather is absolutely crazy here. It's a real heat. The are no any clouds already for five days. We never saw anything like that. And now we are only awaiting for gas. And immediately after arrival we will start. Odintzov

 

All the information you can find here: http://www.risk.ru/eng/projects/bigwall/index.html

 

Update 6/25/2001: News of the expedition BASK-LATOK III

 

Tomorrow we plan the acclimatisation up to 5600 meters, probably Latok 6 [climbers to ??] summit. No connection during this time, do not worry. We will be back in about 4 days. We all are OK. The weather is going to better. Afraid to say that! Odintsov

 

All the information you can find here:
http://www.risk.ru/eng/projects/bigwall/index.html

Update 6/24/2001: A six members Russian Team for Latok III is here to make final arrangement before they depart for Skardu. The team members are Alex Ruchkin, Serge Hajinow, Igor Barihin, Michael Davi, Alexander Klenow and Dr. Michael Bakin. 

 

Out of 10 big walls in the World which offer 1000 meters vertical climb, they have climbed 5 until now with all new routes, Peak 4810 in Pamir, Peak Ak-Su in Pamir, Troll Wall in Norway, Bhagirathi III in India and Trango Tower in Pakistan. The other five including Latok III are now in their agenda with new routes. The Russian Route!

Note these reports are mostly rough as received! 

Information for people who remember us.

We are finally in base camp!  On June 22nd was a very hard day. The camp was established in a very late evening. Though all participants  gathered in base camp. Porters left without sahibs, stopped in 1.5 hours from the camp and risen in rebellion. When we did not see caravan, we had to go down to them by ourselves to suppress national- liberation movement. It had been suppressed in its embryo. It cost us 6 hours of conversations and a lot of nerves. Porters had a worse fate - they did not get the supposed "bukshish" (payment). I took away the passports from the leaders, so now they can not spread discord in any other expeditions.

The weather here is disgusting. It is snowing non-stop. Everything is covered in base camp. The information about the shiny weather on K2 looks very suspiciously. Odintsov.

Alexander Odintsov: 6/19/2001 Today we reached Askole and even went further. We are about a night and two hours from our base camp. Tomorrow accompanied by porters we will go further. We are OK.       The weather is more or less good. Actually "do not say about the w r!"  Doctor made the first surgery operations. And he cures and cuts porters, their hands, legs, and everything The liaison officer looks like a good man. We are full of optimism. Kiss you, hang you. We hope you are also OK. If you have any information about the expeditions around, please let us know. All our friends, relatives say that we are OK.

All the information you can find here:

http://www.risk.ru/eng/projects/bigwall/index.html

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