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September 1-10th,1999 Daily Reports
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Daily News: 9/10/99 Report
Autumn
Everest 99 South Side Report:
8 of September of 1999 Camping Base located to 5,300 ms in
the glacier of the Khumbu. The 31 of August we arrived from Katmandu by air with
impressive landing at Lukla. Seven consecutive trekking stages sleeping in
Padhing,
Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Pheriche, Lobuche and Gora Shep, allowed us to arrive at the
Khumbu glacier in which we have installed our Base Camp. During the past week's approach
march, we gained height gradually and simultaneously verified what it is like for the
Sherpa in a town that dwells in these mountains. The absence of highways causes all the
transport of merchandise to be on the backs of porters, and is peculiar stating that we
have not seen nor heard of anyone falling. I am convinced that the propaganda ball-point
pens that were given to us at the Meeting of Castilla and Leon have found the best
arrangement than could be thought, in these children whom frequently have to walk up to
two hours without stopping to go to a school in a monastery. It will be difficult seeing a
boy on these earth without its ball-point pen.
In Tengboche we had a memorable vision for all the members
of the Expedition, as we saw the top of the Everest for the first time, the mountain that
has occupied our better dreams for a long time, and that now, upon contemplation, shows a
tangible reality to us. Everest's surrounding mythical giants are in all their grandeur,
Amadablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, and the signs of many other beautiful summits of ice and rock.
In Tengboche, we spent hours in its monastery listening to the sounds of monotonous
prayers that transmit a sensation of inner peace to us.
At Base Camp today, it has amassing snow and although the
morning has passed more or less pleasant, now that is 16.30 hours it is snowing with
intensity, which causes that some are in the dining tent (stone wall covered by a plastic)
and the others are in the tents in which we are distributed in two each. Our Base Camp on
the Khumbu glacier is composed of ten tents that shelter us in two's (mountain climbers,
cooks, sherpas), not being located at same height, because we are upon the glacier.
Additionally, there is a large tent of material and the large cabin which as a living room
gives a home us, to sherpas and the kitchen. Sherpas, before the inactivity that the
climatic situation imposes on us, are entertained by playing cards, and we, placing
things, doing repairs, verifying the equipment, using the technology, and even making
natillas (that we must defend of the ruthless attack of the mice).
Our situation is to hold off. We will wait for a
change of the climatic conditions and a reduction of our lack of acclimatization. We
will begin the march of installing the successive campings so that in the first days of
the month of October we have chance of reaching the highest summit of the planet that we
live.
The one thing that has been confirmed is that we are the
only expedition to the Everest by the Nepali side this autumn.
9/9/99 Report
From the cold ice of the glacier of the Khumbu, where we are
installed at the moment, and although now it 11.54 (7.40 in Spain) on the 9th day of the
9th month of 1999 and is snowing, we have sufficient warmth to send a warm hug, and you
can be sure that we will not defraud to you with our performance.
Adelo
EXPEDICIÓN CASTELLANO
LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expedición
Samuel Rubio
http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/
Daily News: 9/9/99 Report
Autumn
Everest 99 South Side Report:
In English: Finally we have had news from our friends.
On the 31st they flew to Lukla and seven
days later they arrived at Base Camp on the Khumbuglacier. We are currently receiving news that it is snowing there.
EXPEDICIÓN CASTELLANO
LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expedición
Samuel Rubio
http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/
A Cho Oyu/Shishapangma Double expedition
featuring two Americans climbers, Chris Warner and Brad Johnson, as they attempt two very difficult routes on these mountains alpine style with a
two man team above ABC.
September 8, 1999
Cho Oyu Advanced Base Camp (18,400 ft.)
Yesterday we shouldered our packs and
carried a load to Camp 1 on Cho Oyu's normal route. Our plan is to climb and sleep high on
this route in order to allow our bodies to acclimate. Camp 1 is at 21,130 ft. and can be
reached in tennis shoes!! This year, though, the snow lays heavy on the ground and the
last few hundred feet was ankle to shin deep snow. Being chickens, we stopped at the
snow's edge, not wanting to get our hiking boots and socks wet. Next time we'll have our
gaiters ready.
The hike was wonderful, and both Brad and I felt
really strong. We even stopped at our high point to eat a few Peak Bars and Everything
Bars. The packaging on both of these energy bars fills us with hope for the summit and
huge muscle development. They even taste great at altitude, which most bars don't. We are
trying hard to maintain our strength and weight for the summit push. It will be impossible
to consume the calories needed for that ascent, and so we'll need to have some excess fat
stored around our waists.
This phase of the expedition can best be described
as the body prep phase. While we are consciously monitoring our food intake, our body is
busy producing additional red blood cells and adjusting the pH of our blood. We'll need
the red blood cells to grab every available bit of oxygen that enters the lungs. The more
oxygen we have the stronger we are. For example at sea level my percentage of blood oxygen
is 98%. Here at Advanced Base Camp, where there is approximately 45% of the available
oxygen, my percentage is currently 83. This means I get out of breath easier. I can
actually increase this percentage by a few points if I sit still and breathe very deeply,
down to my belly button with each breath and slowly exhaling every bit of carbon dioxide
that might be hiding in my lungs.
I expect that my body's ability to utilize the
little bit of available oxygen will increase as we continue to climb higher. After
climbing to 24,000 ft. and then returning to ABC, my body will be giddy from the amount of
oxygen suddenly available. And that is what we are trying to achieve before climbing the
South West Face.
Well, our plan to return with a second load to Camp
1 today was put on hold by a snow storm that blanketed camp last night. Four to six inches
fell, leaving the trail a mess. Thankfully, I took advantage of this opportunity to
solicit the services of a Korean engineer and highly decorated mountaineer (Nanga Parbat,
Broad Peak, Makalu, etc.). Despite having to sit and listen to a Korean version of Dust in
the Wind , I was delighted when he rigged the solar panel directly to the computer. I can
now send images and receive e-mails.
Report: "It has been days since receiving news from the
expedition. At the moment, they are on the approach march and will arrive to
Basecamp on Wednesday or Thursday (8 or 9 of September). Because all the equipment
is packed, there are no batteries available to send news and photos."
EXPEDICIÓN CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expedición
Samuel Rubio http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/
Therefore, EverestNews.com expects them to
arrive at Everest BC on the 8th or 9th. Then hopefully we will know more about the
conditions on Everest this Autumn.
Czech Lhotse Spring 98 Photos: " You can
find some photos from expedition on http://www.spectec.cz. Although the website is in
Czech, photos are clear, I think.", Regards Zdenek
A
Cho Oyu/Shishapangma Double expedition featuring two Americans climbers, Chris Warner and
Brad Johnson, as they attempt two very difficult routes on
these mountains alpine style with a two man team above ABC.
August 31,
1999 Computer problems arose and we wont
have emailed communication for at least one more week. For the meantime, Chris will be
sending his daily reports via voicemail. We arrived in Base Camp I a day early.
Hiked up to 17,200 feet and both feeling great. Tomorrow, we take 10 yak loads headed for
Advanced Base Camp (it will take two days to get there). We wont return to Base Camp until
the end of the expedition.
September 1,
1999 Aaaaahhhhhh!!!!!!!!! Welcome to the world of mountaineering.
This is Joyce Warner Chris? wife. Did Chris adequately explain the wonders of the
unexpected when one is in the mountains? As some of you may know, in the past Chris has
slept on 3,000 ft. cliff edges in snow storms without a tent, another time he went six
days on only six candy bars and 48 oz. of water, so it is hardly a small wonder for us
when he tells us his computer is on the blink. You are invited to join in the guessing
game of what happen to the connection. Did a ornery Yak chew the line? Did the Yeti want
to call home himself? Share with what you think. We will share some of the more creative
stories on the site while we are waiting for Chris to get plugged back in. Our hope is
that a new computer part that needs to be picked up in Kathmandu, driven to Tibet and then
hiked in to base camp will do the trick. Take out a map and join the adventure of getting
Chris reconnected. Meanwhile keep the emails coming. Many of us here at home, will be
joining Chris in about a month and we have been there before so maybe we can answer some
general questions. You are also welcome to ask me any questions about being married to a
mountaineer or his mother about having a mountaineer as a son. Stay tune and we hope you
enjoy solving puzzles from home and supporting such an expedition. Until later – GET
OUTSIDE AND PLAY : )
September
2, 1999 Cho Oyu Advanced Base Camp Altitude
18,250'
We were supposed to leave the
Chinese base camp on Cho Oyo at 9:00 A.M. Nepal time11:15 Chinese time, but our yaks were
nowhere to be found. Three yak drivers and ten yaks had arrived the evening before, we
knew that, but during the night the yaks split for home. Who could blame them? Just past
11:00 A.M. three new yak drivers showed up after herding their yaks for hours up the
valley. Our Chinese liaison officer quickly and forcefully pressed them into service. Yaks
are cantankerous and powerful beasts, they do not accept the beast of burden role very
passively. It took three or four attempts to get our gear loaded on each yak. Our failures
were wild, rodeo style kicking and bucking, duffels boxes of computers and all of our
climbing equipment was stewn in various directions. The Chinese and Tibetans laughed
hysterically clapping, yak loading chaos!
Our journey took us up a broad
valley, carved by glaciers, a mile wide and hundreds of feet deep. The outwash plain of
the glaciers, were waist deep rivers flowing at 33 degrees. The course we had to cross was
at the shallowest sections, the deepest reached past our knees. To the relief of our yak
drivers and Lam our Nepali cook. They held hands to fight the current, while the oldest
Tibetan actually had to ride a yak to cross the rivers. Our first camp was reached at 4:00
P.M., no sooner had we arrived then it started to snow and rain. We were wet and shivering
by the time our tents were set up. At this camp, 17,200' above sea level, we met an older
German mountaineer, he crawled from his tent when we arrived, he had been sick for a week.
I gave him a handful of antibiotics which had a powerful effect on his tongue. He has
since not stopped talking and will be following us to advanced base camp. He will
definitely add color to the scene here.
We awoke to a perfect panorama,
Cho Oyu and a dozen smaller peaks glistening in the sun. Today's hike was spectacular with
expansive views, deep river valleys and the constant jingling of yak bells. We were the
first expedition to arrive in ABC (Advanced Base Camp). During the next few weeks fifteen
additional groups will arrive. This place will resemble a sea of yellow dome tents and big
boxy old kitchen tents. We plan on reveling in the peace, while it lasts. Brad and I felt
the altitude quite a bit today, we had been pushing hard and really will benefit from the
next two or three days of rest.
On the Lighter Side: There is not much
new in Finnish high altitude mountaineering, but Doll: Veikka the Mountaineer! URL www.martinex.fi presents a doll that will be available
in shops in Finland starting September 1999. It is a mountaineer with personal characters
of Veikka Gustafsson. The doll has all necessary mountaineering equipment for high
altitude climbing. The price will be approximately USD 50. Helsinki Sept. 5th, 1999 Jukka
Tarkkala
Turkey as we sure you are aware was hit by a
large earthquake several days ago. Several volunteer groups and people gave their efforts
to rescue survivors of the quake.
A group called AKUT- Search and Rescue Society
has been credited as a hero to many. AKUT, is a group of climbers and volunteers that deal
with climbing accidents, floods and other accidents. Many of AKUT members are climbers.
Since the quake the group is credited with saving many lives. The group was founded
in 1996 by Nasuh Mahruki.
Nasuh Mahruki was the first
person from Turkey to reach the summit of Everest in 1995.
Our Wed site of the week: As you know we like good
causes: 5 British and 6 African visually impaired and blind people, will set out
together to climb Mount Kilimanjaro.
http://www.kilimanjaro.org.uk/sightsavers/frame.html
Risk has much more on the Trango Tower summits. Check them
out for some interesting articles. www.risk.ru
Everything is
prepared here to go.
We have all the permissions, we have paid all the taxes and already we have bought all the
necessary supplies. Tomorrow we fly to LUKLA at 8
in the morning and from there we will begin the
approach march, that will last 7 days.
Un abrazo. Adelo.
The EXPEDICIÓN CASTELLANO
LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expedición
Samuel Rubio
http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/
News from INDONESIA
Allow me to introduce my company ADVENTURE
INDONESIA a licensed trekking and mountaineering outfitter. My own company is
running climbing expedition to Carstensz Pyramid since February 1999. For information you
can visit http://www.adventureindonesia.com
Also you can find pictures of last expeditions......
As personal, i was organized the successful Indonesia-Army
Mt. Everest
Expeditions from Nepal & Tibet Sides (With Anatoli Boukreev and
Richard Pawlowski) all together in Spring 1997. Our Nepal team reached the summit on
April 26, 1997. I also the PR Representative of Royal Nepal Tourism in Indonesia.
Regarding climbing Carstensz Pyramid in 1999,
this year i will operate many groups. Herewith i also would inform you about
one international joining team that we will operated from October 17-28, 1999. This is the
last expeditions in 1999. We closed and sign off from: November 1999 UNTIL January
2000. Because to wet and cloudy, this is the peak of rainy season.
Also the political condition on November 1999 in
Indonesia is not comfort and safe for a mountaineering expedition deep inside the remote
area of Irian Island.
Since this is the first democracy Presidential Election
since more than 40 years, so there must be some political unrest on several islands......
We will open again from: February-November 2000.
Re:
INTERNATIONAL TEAM (JOINING TEAM) OCTOBER 1999 All of participant of
this joining international group (right now total 08 people- 06 from Poland, 01
USA, 01 Japan) will arrive Jakarta on October 16 - while we will held the briefing
after dinner.
Will depart together in the same plane to Timika on October
17. Arrive Timika next day on October 18. Will return to Jakarta "in the same
day": Timika-Jakarta on October 28, 1999 - Arrive Jakarta
International Airport around 14.30 PM - still have enough time to connect with
international flight (always depart from Jakarta after 18.00 PM) for homeward
bound. Just incase you have friends and contacts or partners who would like accomplish
their SEVEN SUMMITS in 1999, please let me know........ Best Wishes,
Monty Sorongan
Daily News: 9/1/99 Report
Autumn Everest 99
South Side:
Pictures ! They are
large...so they will take sometime to load the page.
The EXPEDICIÓN
CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expedición
Samuel Rubio
http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/
High Adventure Everest 2000
Expedition: Mike Trueman, is returning to Everest in 2000. After
successfully reaching the Summit in 1999 on Mike's third attempt on Everest, he is
planning to lead a group of 6-8 climbers in 2000.
"Plans for Everest 2000 are now well advanced. We have
a very strong, and competent team. Speaking the language helps me
tremendously with my relationships with the Sherpas, and during the summer I have
contacted by some of the most outstanding of Everest Sherpas, who want to work with me
next year. The Deputy Leader will be Nick Kekus - an
outstanding climber and good friend. I have worked hard to keep the price competitive, and
at US$ 38,500, given the strength of the High Adventure Sherpas,
members will get first class value for money. I want to keep the
team down to 6 - 8 climbing members, and most of the places have already gone.
Anyone who is interested in taking one of the final places should contact me fairly
quickly." Best wishes Mike
In 1996 Mike gave up his attempt on the South Pillar to give
assistance to the other climbers. In 1997, Mike gave up his attempt when his expedition
leader Mal Duff died and he assumed the leader role of the expedition.
