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 September 1-10th,1999 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit EverestNews.com Sponsor page !

Daily News: 9/10/99 Report

  • Autumn Everest 99 South Side Report:

8 of September of 1999 Camping Base located to 5,300 ms in the glacier of the Khumbu. The 31 of August we arrived from Katmandu by air with impressive landing at Lukla. Seven consecutive trekking stages sleeping in Padhing, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Pheriche, Lobuche and Gora Shep, allowed us to arrive at the Khumbu glacier in which we have installed our Base Camp. During the past week's approach march, we gained height gradually and simultaneously verified what it is like for the Sherpa in a town that dwells in these mountains. The absence of highways causes all the transport of merchandise to be on the backs of porters, and is peculiar stating that we have not seen nor heard of anyone falling. I am convinced that the propaganda ball-point pens that were given to us at the Meeting of Castilla and Leon have found the best arrangement than could be thought, in these children whom frequently have to walk up to two hours without stopping to go to a school in a monastery. It will be difficult seeing a boy on these earth without its ball-point pen.

In Tengboche we had a memorable vision for all the members of the Expedition, as we saw the top of the Everest for the first time, the mountain that has occupied our better dreams for a long time, and that now, upon contemplation, shows a tangible reality to us. Everest's surrounding mythical giants are in all their grandeur, Amadablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, and the signs of many other beautiful summits of ice and rock. In Tengboche, we spent hours in its monastery listening to the sounds of monotonous prayers that transmit a sensation of inner peace to us.

At Base Camp today, it has amassing snow and although the morning has passed more or less pleasant, now that is 16.30 hours it is snowing with intensity, which causes that some are in the dining tent (stone wall covered by a plastic) and the others are in the tents in which we are distributed in two each. Our Base Camp on the Khumbu glacier is composed of ten tents that shelter us in two's (mountain climbers, cooks, sherpas), not being located at same height, because we are upon the glacier.   Additionally, there is a large tent of material and the large cabin which as a living room gives a home us, to sherpas and the kitchen. Sherpas, before the inactivity that the climatic situation imposes on us, are entertained by playing cards, and we, placing things, doing repairs, verifying the equipment, using the technology, and even making natillas (that we must defend of the ruthless attack of the mice).

Our situation is to hold off.  We will wait for a change of the climatic conditions and a reduction of our lack of acclimatization.  We will begin the march of installing the successive campings so that in the first days of the month of October we have chance of reaching the highest summit of the planet that we live.

The one thing that has been confirmed is that we are the only expedition to the Everest by the Nepali side this autumn.

9/9/99 Report

From the cold ice of the glacier of the Khumbu, where we are installed at the moment, and although now it 11.54 (7.40 in Spain) on the 9th day of the 9th month of 1999 and is snowing, we have sufficient warmth to send a warm hug, and you can be sure that we will not defraud to you with our performance.

Adelo

EXPEDICIÓN CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expedición Samuel Rubio  http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/

Daily News: 9/9/99 Report

  • Autumn Everest 99 South Side Report:

In English: Finally we have had news  from our friends.  On the 31st they flew to Lukla and seven days later they arrived at Base Camp on the Khumbu glacier.  We are currently receiving news that it is snowing there.

EXPEDICIÓN CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expedición Samuel Rubio  http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/

  • A Cho Oyu/Shishapangma Double expedition featuring two Americans climbers, Chris Warner and Brad Johnson, as they attempt two very difficult routes on these mountains alpine style with a two man team above ABC.

    September 8, 1999

    Cho Oyu Advanced Base Camp (18,400 ft.)

    Yesterday we shouldered our packs and carried a load to Camp 1 on Cho Oyu's normal route. Our plan is to climb and sleep high on this route in order to allow our bodies to acclimate. Camp 1 is at 21,130 ft. and can be reached in tennis shoes!! This year, though, the snow lays heavy on the ground and the last few hundred feet was ankle to shin deep snow. Being chickens, we stopped at the snow's edge, not wanting to get our hiking boots and socks wet. Next time we'll have our gaiters ready.

    The hike was wonderful, and both Brad and I felt really strong. We even stopped at our high point to eat a few Peak Bars and Everything Bars. The packaging on both of these energy bars fills us with hope for the summit and huge muscle development. They even taste great at altitude, which most bars don't. We are trying hard to maintain our strength and weight for the summit push. It will be impossible to consume the calories needed for that ascent, and so we'll need to have some excess fat stored around our waists.

    This phase of the expedition can best be described as the body prep phase. While we are consciously monitoring our food intake, our body is busy producing additional red blood cells and adjusting the pH of our blood. We'll need the red blood cells to grab every available bit of oxygen that enters the lungs. The more oxygen we have the stronger we are. For example at sea level my percentage of blood oxygen is 98%. Here at Advanced Base Camp, where there is approximately 45% of the available oxygen, my percentage is currently 83. This means I get out of breath easier. I can actually increase this percentage by a few points if I sit still and breathe very deeply, down to my belly button with each breath and slowly exhaling every bit of carbon dioxide that might be hiding in my lungs.

    I expect that my body's ability to utilize the little bit of available oxygen will increase as we continue to climb higher. After climbing to 24,000 ft. and then returning to ABC, my body will be giddy from the amount of oxygen suddenly available. And that is what we are trying to achieve before climbing the South West Face.

    Well, our plan to return with a second load to Camp 1 today was put on hold by a snow storm that blanketed camp last night. Four to six inches fell, leaving the trail a mess. Thankfully, I took advantage of this opportunity to solicit the services of a Korean engineer and highly decorated mountaineer (Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Makalu, etc.). Despite having to sit and listen to a Korean version of Dust in the Wind , I was delighted when he rigged the solar panel directly to the computer. I can now send images and receive e-mails.

    Your pal, Chris

    Their web site is: www.earthtreksclimbing.com

Daily News: 9/8/99 Report

  • Something Special:

Graham Hoyland New Novel "Death Of Everest"

For Sale exclusively in manuscript digital form only on www.k2news.com Available Now !!!

The first orders of "covers" receive a signed numbered cover while supplies last. The earlier the order the lower the number !

See www.k2news.com for details.

  • Insiders please check your page if you have not !

Daily News: 9/7/99 Report

  • Autumn Everest 99 South Side:

    Report: "It has been days since receiving news from the expedition.  At the moment, they are on the approach march and will arrive to Basecamp on Wednesday or Thursday (8 or 9 of September).  Because all the equipment is packed, there are no batteries available to send news and photos." EXPEDICIÓN CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expedición Samuel Rubio  http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/

    Therefore, EverestNews.com expects them to arrive at Everest BC on the 8th or 9th. Then hopefully we will know more about the conditions on Everest this Autumn.

  • Czech Lhotse Spring 98 Photos: " You can find some photos from expedition on http://www.spectec.cz. Although the website is in Czech, photos are clear, I think.",  Regards Zdenek

Daily News: 9/5-6/99 Report

  • A Cho Oyu/Shishapangma Double expedition featuring two Americans climbers, Chris Warner and Brad Johnson, as they attempt two very difficult routes on these mountains alpine style with a two man team above ABC. 

August 31, 1999  Computer problems arose and we wont have emailed communication for at least one more week. For the meantime, Chris will be sending his daily reports via voicemail.  We arrived in Base Camp I a day early. Hiked up to 17,200 feet and both feeling great. Tomorrow, we take 10 yak loads headed for Advanced Base Camp (it will take two days to get there). We wont return to Base Camp until the end of the expedition.

September 1, 1999  Aaaaahhhhhh!!!!!!!!! Welcome to the world of mountaineering. This is Joyce Warner Chris? wife. Did Chris adequately explain the wonders of the unexpected when one is in the mountains? As some of you may know, in the past Chris has slept on 3,000 ft. cliff edges in snow storms without a tent, another time he went six days on only six candy bars and 48 oz. of water, so it is hardly a small wonder for us when he tells us his computer is on the blink. You are invited to join in the guessing game of what happen to the connection. Did a ornery Yak chew the line? Did the Yeti want to call home himself? Share with what you think. We will share some of the more creative stories on the site while we are waiting for Chris to get plugged back in. Our hope is that a new computer part that needs to be picked up in Kathmandu, driven to Tibet and then hiked in to base camp will do the trick. Take out a map and join the adventure of getting Chris reconnected. Meanwhile keep the emails coming. Many of us here at home, will be joining Chris in about a month and we have been there before so maybe we can answer some general questions. You are also welcome to ask me any questions about being married to a mountaineer or his mother about having a mountaineer as a son. Stay tune and we hope you enjoy solving puzzles from home and supporting such an expedition. Until later – GET OUTSIDE AND PLAY : )

September 2, 1999 Cho Oyu Advanced Base Camp  Altitude 18,250'

We were supposed to leave the Chinese base camp on Cho Oyo at 9:00 A.M. Nepal time11:15 Chinese time, but our yaks were nowhere to be found. Three yak drivers and ten yaks had arrived the evening before, we knew that, but during the night the yaks split for home. Who could blame them? Just past 11:00 A.M. three new yak drivers showed up after herding their yaks for hours up the valley. Our Chinese liaison officer quickly and forcefully pressed them into service. Yaks are cantankerous and powerful beasts, they do not accept the beast of burden role very passively. It took three or four attempts to get our gear loaded on each yak. Our failures were wild, rodeo style kicking and bucking, duffels boxes of computers and all of our climbing equipment was stewn in various directions. The Chinese and Tibetans laughed hysterically clapping, yak loading chaos! 

Our journey took us up a broad valley, carved by glaciers, a mile wide and hundreds of feet deep. The outwash plain of the glaciers, were waist deep rivers flowing at 33 degrees. The course we had to cross was at the shallowest sections, the deepest reached past our knees. To the relief of our yak drivers and Lam our Nepali cook. They held hands to fight the current, while the oldest Tibetan actually had to ride a yak to cross the rivers. Our first camp was reached at 4:00 P.M., no sooner had we arrived then it started to snow and rain. We were wet and shivering by the time our tents were set up. At this camp, 17,200' above sea level, we met an older German mountaineer, he crawled from his tent when we arrived, he had been sick for a week. I gave him a handful of antibiotics which had a powerful effect on his tongue. He has since not stopped talking and will be following us to advanced base camp. He will definitely add color to the scene here.

We awoke to a perfect panorama, Cho Oyu and a dozen smaller peaks glistening in the sun. Today's hike was spectacular with expansive views, deep river valleys and the constant jingling of yak bells. We were the first expedition to arrive in ABC (Advanced Base Camp). During the next few weeks fifteen additional groups will arrive. This place will resemble a sea of yellow dome tents and big boxy old kitchen tents. We plan on reveling in the peace, while it lasts. Brad and I felt the altitude quite a bit today, we had been pushing hard and really will benefit from the next two or three days of rest.

Peace Out, Chris Warner

Their web site is: www.earthtreksclimbing.com

  • On the Lighter Side: There is not much new in Finnish high altitude mountaineering, but Doll: Veikka the Mountaineer! URL www.martinex.fi presents a doll that will be available in shops in Finland starting September 1999. It is a mountaineer with personal characters of Veikka Gustafsson. The doll has all necessary mountaineering equipment for high altitude climbing. The price will be approximately USD 50. Helsinki Sept. 5th, 1999 Jukka Tarkkala

Daily News: 9/4/99 Report

  • Graham Hoyland New Novel "Death Of Everest"

Soon For Sale exclusively in manuscript digital form only on K2news.com

Planned for release next week, stay Tuned !

  • News from our friends at Neptune Mountaineering

    Hi everybody!

    We're hurtling into the 21st century. (But we're still wearing wool.)

    Forthwith and whatnot, we have new e-mail addresses

    ---for the buying staff, use  buying@neptunemountaineering.com

    ---for the Office or King Neptune himself,

                     use  offices@neptunemountaineering.com   Thanks!

  • Waldemar is planning on returning to K2 in 2000 !

Daily News: 9/3/99 Report

  • Everest/Turkey:

Turkey as we sure you are aware was hit by a large earthquake several days ago. Several volunteer groups and people gave their efforts to rescue survivors of the quake.

A group called AKUT- Search and Rescue Society has been credited as a hero to many. AKUT, is a group of climbers and volunteers that deal with climbing accidents, floods and other accidents. Many of AKUT members are climbers. Since the quake the group is credited with saving many lives.  The group was founded in 1996 by Nasuh Mahruki.

Nasuh Mahruki was the first person from Turkey to reach the summit of Everest in 1995.

  • Our Wed site of the week:  As you know we like good causes: 5 British and 6 African visually impaired and blind people, will set out together to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. http://www.kilimanjaro.org.uk/sightsavers/frame.html
  • Risk has much more on the Trango Tower summits. Check them out for some interesting articles. www.risk.ru

Daily News: 9/2/99 Report

  • Autumn Everest 99 South Side:

1 of September of 1999 Report

Everything is prepared here to go. We have all the permissions, we have paid all the taxes and already we have bought all the necessary supplies. Tomorrow we fly to LUKLA at 8 in the morning and from there we will begin the approach march, that will last 7 days. 

Un abrazo.  Adelo. 

tricycles.jpg (36568 bytes)

The EXPEDICIÓN CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expedición Samuel Rubio  http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/

  • News from INDONESIA

Allow me to introduce my company  ADVENTURE INDONESIA   a licensed trekking and mountaineering outfitter. My own company is running climbing expedition to Carstensz Pyramid since February 1999. For information you can visit  http://www.adventureindonesia.com Also you can find pictures of last expeditions......

As personal, i was organized the successful Indonesia-Army Mt. Everest Expeditions from Nepal & Tibet Sides  (With Anatoli Boukreev and Richard Pawlowski)  all together in Spring 1997. Our Nepal team reached the summit on April 26, 1997. I also the PR Representative of Royal Nepal Tourism in Indonesia.

Regarding climbing Carstensz Pyramid in 1999,  this year i will operate many  groups. Herewith i  also would inform you about one international joining team that we will operated from October 17-28, 1999. This is the last expeditions in 1999. We closed and sign off from: November 1999 UNTIL  January 2000.  Because to wet and cloudy,  this is the peak of rainy season.

Also the political condition on November  1999 in Indonesia is not comfort and safe for a mountaineering expedition deep inside the remote area of Irian Island.

Since this is the first democracy Presidential Election since more than 40 years, so there must be some political unrest on several islands...... We will open again from: February-November 2000.

Re:   INTERNATIONAL TEAM  (JOINING TEAM)    OCTOBER 1999 All of participant of this joining international group   (right now total 08 people- 06 from Poland, 01 USA, 01 Japan)  will arrive Jakarta on October 16 - while we will held the briefing after dinner.

Will depart together in the same plane to Timika on October 17. Arrive Timika next day on October 18. Will return to Jakarta  "in the same day": Timika-Jakarta  on  October 28, 1999 -  Arrive Jakarta International Airport around 14.30 PM - still have enough time to connect with international flight  (always depart from Jakarta after 18.00 PM)  for homeward bound. Just incase you have friends and contacts or partners who would like accomplish their SEVEN SUMMITS  in 1999,  please let me know........  Best Wishes, Monty Sorongan

Daily News: 9/1/99 Report

  • Autumn Everest 99 South Side:

Pictures ! They are large...so they will take sometime to load the page.

The EXPEDICIÓN CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expedición Samuel Rubio  http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/

  • Spring Everest 99 South Side:

Katja Staartjes was a member of the OTT expedition (http://www.ottexpeditions.co.uk/everest.htm ) that reached the summit in Spring 99. Her website is:  http://www.peijnenburg.nl/right/expeditie.htm. She climbed Cho Oyu last spring in an all Dutch expedition, led by Rene de Bos. She became the first Dutch woman to Summit Everest in Spring 99. Katja, is presently finishing her New book, then hopefully you will see her on EverestNews.com in a Q&A. Check her out http://www.peijnenburg.nl/right/expeditie.htm

  • Spring Everest 2000:

High Adventure Everest 2000 Expedition: Mike Trueman, is returning to Everest in 2000. After successfully reaching the Summit in 1999 on Mike's third attempt on Everest, he is planning to lead a group of 6-8 climbers in 2000.

"Plans for Everest 2000 are now well advanced. We have a very strong, and competent team. Speaking the language helps me tremendously with my relationships with the Sherpas, and during the summer I have contacted by some of the most outstanding of Everest Sherpas, who want to work with me next year. The Deputy Leader will be Nick Kekus - an outstanding climber and good friend. I have worked hard to keep the price competitive, and at US$ 38,500, given the strength of the High Adventure Sherpas, members will get first class value for money. I want to keep the team down to 6 - 8 climbing members, and most of the places have already gone. Anyone who is interested in taking one of the final places should contact me fairly quickly." Best wishes Mike

In 1996 Mike gave up his attempt on the South Pillar to give assistance to the other climbers. In 1997, Mike gave up his attempt when his expedition leader Mal Duff died and he assumed the leader role of the expedition.

It appears Mike time has come. His web site is High Adventure Everest 2000 Expedition

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