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 Slovenians in Himalaya 1998-2001

1998: Spring saw eight expeditions, one of which was Slovenian, climbing Dhaulagiri I. Mark Prezelj and team did first ascent on a new route in Porong Ri, 7292 meters and Jebo Kangri, 7332 meters (Tibet).

1999: Tomaz Humar is a man who sees the world more often then not vertically, horizontally and any other way he can technically twist it and turn it. By 1999 he had completed well over 500 tours of which over 50 were world class or firsts. He returns to Himalayas almost annually. Nuptse, Bobaye, Ganesh, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and many, many more become his sanctuary for that brief period of time where time and space hold no inhibition.

Famous for his new route in 1999, a 9-day solo on South Face of Dhaulagiri [not to the Summit] places him in a category of men who achieved the impossible. He is one with the rock, he transcends into realm of his own reality, karma intact and yes, I think he has more then nine lives. May the mountain gods remain with you, Tomaz.

1999: Mark Prezelj returned accompanied by Jost Matic to scale Siguang Ri Shar, 6998 meters followed by a first ascent of ZeroPeak 6700 as well as first ascend of the northern ridge on Gjachung Kang 7952 meters. 

2000: Uros Samec and Jernej Bevk (Nejc) departed on an expedition promoting youthful overview on climbing in Himalayas by Slovenians alpine style. 6000 and 7000+m peaks surrounding the northern Kangchenjunga Himal some of which were climbed, but not all as planed, due to accidental circumstances.

Other 2000 team comprising of six members left for Tien Shan with a goal to ascend Han Tangri via north ridge. Time permitting an ascent on a nearby 6000+m peak via new route will be attempted. During acclimatization it was soon obvious that difficulties exacerbated by poor glacier ice, rotten snow and crevasses would add to an already difficult challenge. The only one having a good ascent was Tomazin on skies. As a leader of the team his style was to lead from the rear thus the route was established for him by his teammates. Easy ride and fresh as a daisy Tomazin was. Tomazin was certain of his own success and indeed succeeded.

Only two of the six made the summit on Tien Shan, Tomazin and Rozic. At about 6000 meters, exhausted Anze Cokl realized that symptoms of what could be pulmonary edema were setting in and with remaining team members, descended to base camp, their health seriously compromised by this time. While at about 6000 meters, Anze dehydrated quickly due to lack of fluid. At the age of 18, Anze might have failed at a Himalayan summit but has learned a valuable and indispensable lesson. Trust only unto yourself and retreat. And so he did, to return to Himalayas soon, we hope.

2000 Everest ski expedition. Who could not note with awe the accomplishment of Davo Karnicar when he successfully skied Everest’s 29035ft peak to base camp. This accomplishment places him in a category of his own making, exceeding extreme sports, alpinism and climbing rock and ice. The genius is in its madness and unparalleled courage where all was placed on the line in alpinism and Davo crossed the finest line possible by humankind to date.

Cvetka, February, 2002

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