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Slovenians
in Himalaya 1998-2001
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1998:
Spring saw eight expeditions, one of which was
Slovenian, climbing Dhaulagiri I. Mark Prezelj and
team did first ascent on a new route in Porong Ri, 7292
meters and Jebo Kangri, 7332 meters (Tibet).
1999:
Tomaz Humar is a man who sees the world more often
then not vertically, horizontally and any other way he
can technically twist it and turn it. By 1999 he had
completed well over 500 tours of which over 50 were
world class or firsts. He returns to Himalayas almost
annually. Nuptse, Bobaye, Ganesh, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri
and many, many more become his sanctuary for that
brief period of time where time and space hold no
inhibition.
Famous
for his new route in 1999, a 9-day solo on South Face
of Dhaulagiri [not to the Summit] places him in a
category of men who achieved the impossible. He is one
with the rock, he transcends into realm of his own
reality, karma intact and yes, I think he has more
then nine lives. May the mountain gods remain with
you, Tomaz.
1999:
Mark Prezelj returned accompanied by Jost Matic to
scale Siguang Ri Shar, 6998 meters followed by a first
ascent of ZeroPeak 6700 as well as first ascend of the
northern ridge on Gjachung Kang 7952 meters.
2000:
Uros Samec and Jernej Bevk (Nejc) departed on an
expedition promoting youthful overview on climbing in
Himalayas by Slovenians alpine style. 6000 and 7000+m
peaks surrounding the northern Kangchenjunga Himal
some of which were climbed, but not all as planed, due to
accidental circumstances.
Other
2000 team comprising of six members left for Tien Shan
with a goal to ascend Han Tangri via north ridge. Time
permitting an ascent on a nearby 6000+m peak via new
route will be attempted. During acclimatization it was
soon obvious that difficulties exacerbated by poor
glacier ice, rotten snow and crevasses would add to an
already difficult challenge. The only one having a
good ascent was Tomazin on skies. As a leader of the
team his style was to lead from the rear thus the route
was established for him by his teammates. Easy ride and fresh
as a daisy Tomazin was. Tomazin was certain of his own
success and indeed succeeded.
Only
two of the six made the summit on Tien Shan, Tomazin
and Rozic. At about 6000 meters, exhausted Anze Cokl
realized that symptoms of what could be pulmonary
edema were setting in and with remaining team members,
descended to base camp, their health seriously
compromised by this time. While at about 6000 meters,
Anze dehydrated quickly due to lack of fluid. At the
age of 18, Anze might have failed at a Himalayan
summit but has learned a valuable and indispensable
lesson. Trust only unto yourself and retreat. And so
he did, to return to Himalayas soon, we hope.
2000
Everest ski expedition. Who could not note with awe the
accomplishment of Davo Karnicar when he successfully
skied Everests 29035ft peak to base camp. This
accomplishment places him in a category of his own
making, exceeding extreme sports, alpinism and
climbing rock and ice. The genius is in its madness
and unparalleled courage where all was placed on the
line in alpinism and Davo crossed the finest line
possible by humankind to date.
Cvetka,
February, 2002
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