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May 1998 Daily South Side
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LATEST NEWS FROM THE SOUTH SIDE
Reports on Everest Spring 98
Update 6/3/98 US
- The News will be listed again on one page (the News Page) now that the spring season is over. If you are new
to our site we suggest you read our daily updates from the season below.
Update 6/2/98 US
- EverestNews.com has updated the South Side
summits page. We think you will like it. EverestNews.com will soon start reporting late
Summer/Fall attempts.
Update 6/1/98 US
- EverestNews.com
is reporting 43 summits by the
south route this year, with no deaths. See our list on the summits page.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/30/98 US 1:00PM EST
- EverestNews.com
has received confirmation that
there were NO deaths on the South Side from the various expeditions this year. Great Job.
Update 5/30/98 US
- Packing up and moving out on the South Side.
- EverestNews.com
has added some details to the
summit page. Very interesting story about Edward Grylls (23) and Henry Todd's Himalayan
Guides Expedition that reached the Summit of Everest. We understand Edward carried a New
Testament with him and the team is raising money for a charity for
tetraplegics. We will
try to get the information so you can know more.
Update 5/29/98 US 4:00PM EST
- EverestNews.com
knows of no deaths on the South
Side from the various expeditions.
- Many expeditions have left BC, others are
packing up. Some climbers have been attempting Lhotse (with success).
- EverestNews.com
believes, at this point, that
all the deaths are on the North Side.
Update 5/28/98 US
- EverestNews.com
has confirmed the three climbers
on Henry Todd's Himalayan Guides Expedition that reached the Summit of Everest were Neil
Laughton, as reported earlier, Edward Grylls, and Alan Silva.
- Himalayan Guides Expedition is also reporting
to us that Andy Lakpas, Tommy Heindrich, Brad Bull, and Ilgivar Pauls, all reached the
summit on Lhotse.
- Source: Himalayan Guides Expedition
Please check out our Bookstore.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/27/98 10:26 AM EST US
- EverestNews.com
has CONFIRMED that Tom Whittaker
(UK) reached the Summit !!!
- Four Sherpa including Tashi Tshering (his
second summit this year) and climber Jeff Rhoads (also his second summit this year)
reached the summit with Tom.
- Check back soon.
Update 5/27/98 US
- EverestNews.com
has also confirmed that neither
Babu Chhiri Sherpa nor the two Swedish climbers on the south side reached the summit this
year. Babu sirdar for the two Swedish climbers expedition, which only reached the south
summit. Babu turned around with the other members of the expedition.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/27/98 6:56 AM EST US
- EverestNews.com
has an UNCONFIRMED report that
Tom Whittaker has reached the top of the world !!! More soon. This is UNCONFIRMED and
UNOFFICIAL AT THIS POINT.
- One of the Himalayan Guides climbers has
reached the summit yesterday is believed to be Neil Laughton.
- Check back soon.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/26/98 10:39 PM EST US
- More climbers moving up the mountain !
Everest 98 is not over yet !
- EverestNews.com
can only confirm, at this point,
that three members of Himalayan Guides Expedition reached the summit yesterday (Nepal).
- Check our summits page !
NEWSFLASH Update 5/26/98 2:24 PM EST US
- More climbers have reached the Summit of
Everest from the south side today.
- Nepal is reporting a heat wave.
- EverestNews.com
is waiting word that all
climbers have descended safely.
Update 5/26/98 US
- Josie Kieran (Ireland) is reported at Camp 2.
EverestNews.com has received information from two sources that Josie Kieran is NOT MISSING.
- Various reports received yesterday on Josie
Kieran status, including that she was on Everest above Camp 4 very late. EverestNews.com
has
not been able to confirm this. The reports were confusing and were very concerning.
However, good news, both sources are reporting her safe today. The other details will sort
themselves out later.
- From an editorial point of view, the Josie
Kieran "confusing reports" was the hardest story of the year, to report or not
to report.
- As reported on 5/23/98, Tom Whittaker is
attempting the summit again.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/25/98 3:15 PM EST US
- EverestNews.com
believes the following climbers
reached the summit of Everest from the south side today: Bernardo Guarachi the Bolivian
climber, Ed Siew, Swee Chiow, Ang Dorje Sherpa, Nawang Phurba Sherpa, Kami Rita Sherpa,
and Fura Dorjee Sherpa, all from the Singapore team, Dave Welsh (UK Guide), Sundeep Dillam
(UK), and three Sherpa from the HKE. Byron Smith is believed to have came very close
to reaching the summit but turned around. Josie Kieran (Ireland) was reported behind the
main group and her status is not known by EverestNews.com at this time. We believe but have
not confirmed that Josie Kieran, Byron Smith and Sundeep Dillam were the only three
clients on HKE that attempted the summit last night. EverestNews.com is waiting word that all
climbers descended safely. The Singapore team did safely reach the Camp 4.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/25/98 6:24 AM EST US
- Numerous climbers are believed to have
reached the Summit of Everest from the south side today including, Bernardo Guarachi the
Bolivian climber and part of the Singapore team. Radio communications with the HKE team
does not appear to be working correctly. EverestNews.com is waiting word that all
climbers have descended safely. Reports are the Singapore team did safely reach the Camp
4, however, this is UNCONFIRMED by EverestNews.com at time point.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/24/98 9:34 PM EST US
- Climbers are on the summit ridge very early
(approximately 8:15AM Nepal) within minutes of reaching the summit. Hopefully many details
in the morning on who. Ropes are fixed. Therefore strength and weather are the keys.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/24/98 8:07 PM EST US
- EverestNews.com
understands that Bernardo
Guarachi, a Bolivian climber some of you have requested information on, is also attempting
the summit.
Update 5/24/98 7:00 PM EST US
- EverestNews.com
has confirmed around 20 climbers
ascending on the South Side tonight (Sunday In Nepal).
- As reported earlier, the Singapore team and
HKE team is among the teams attempting the summit tonight. Josie Kierens & Byron Smith
are believed but NOT CONFIRMED to be part of the HKE summit team.
- For the Singapore climbers this is the second
attempt from Camp 4, this spring.
Update 5/24/98 EST US
- EverestNews.com
believes some teams will attempt
the summit tonight (Sunday In Nepal) as reported yesterday.
- We expect the Singapore team to be among the
teams attempting the summit tonight.
- Josie Kierens is reported fine. We expect her
to attempt the summit.
- Babu Chhiri Sherpa (with HKE) usually does
not go with the "group", but look for others to try to follow him. He is a very
strong and fast climber.
- Weather reports are variable from the
"storm" is imminent, good weather is here, and the wind is very strong at the
summit.
- Sherman Bull is said to be much better and is
"walking".
- Byron Smith is also expected to attempt the
summit in the next few days.
- For many of these climbers (i.e. Singapore,
etc.) this will be a second attempt from camp 4, this spring. Dangerous.
Update 5/23/98 EST US
- EverestNews.com
believes many teams will attempt
the summit Sunday or Monday night (Nepal).
- Tom Whittaker has reportedly moved back up to
Camp 2, and is planning another summit attempt. He purchased the GPS team's left over
oxygen.
- HKE, with the climber from Ireland (Josie
Kierens) is at Camp 3 and moving up.
- The Singapore team is also moving up with 5
or 6 person team.
- Some teams appear to feel the
"storm" is imminent others feel like good weather is here.
- Both climbers that were injured on summit day
suffered only minor injures and are reported fine. However, Sherman Bull, seems to have
possibly broken ribs and hurt his leg. He has descended from Camp 4, and a sledge has been
sent up for a rescue.
- Byron Smith is also expected to attempt the
summit in the next few days.
- Base camp is washing and crumbling away with
water tricking everywhere.
- Some teams and team members (i.e., Simonson)
are descending from BC.
- For many of these climbers (i.e. Singapore,
etc.) this will be a second attempt from camp 4, this spring. Dangerous.
Update 5/23/98 EST US
- EverestNews.com
has no additional confirmed
summits.
- Tom Whittaker is resting is BC, reportedly
feeling well and planning on making another attempt.
- No members of the Independent (HKE) teams has
reached the summit to our knowledge.
- EverestNews.com
stands by its story of 5/19/98
11:04 EST US.
- Many teams appear to be hoping the weather
improves so the summit can be attempted next week.
- EverestNews.com
will try to provide you with
more information on other teams soon. Check back.
Update 5/22/98 EST US
- EverestNews.com
has had several requests for
information on HKE with Babu Chhiri Sherpa and others. We are attempting to find out what
we can for you. Babu has lead summits late before, i.e. 1996, so don't be surprised !
NEWSFLASH Update 8:47 AM 5/22/98 EST US
- EverestNews.com
has received reports today of
SOME climbers turning back during summit attempts the last 24 hours on the North Side due
to high winds.
Update 5/21/98 3:51PM EST US
- EverestNews.com
has reports on summit attempts
for tonight again.
- Most climbers seem to feel the storm missed
Everest. The race is on until the snow arrives.
- Check the North Side report for CONCERNING
weather information from the Russian expedition.
Update 5/21/98 10:05AM EST US
- Most climbers seem to feel the storm missed
Everest. The race is on until the snow arrives.
- EverestNews.com
has been receiving reports on
Tom Whittaker. The reports are that Tom reached 27,000 ft before returning to lower camps
for medical attention. It was reported to EverestNews.com that Tom had a recurrence of
pulmonary infection and possibly high altitude pulmonary edema.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/20/98 2:05PM EST US
- Climbers are leaving camp 4 for the summit
again tonight.
- How long will the good weather hold?
Ropes are now fixed.
- Our prayers are with them.
Update 5/20/98 1:01PM EST US:
- Everest Environmental Expedition with Appa
Sherpa steals the day ! Appa Sherpa was first on the summit from the south side this year.
Our sources tell us that as many as 9 to 10 members of the EEE team reached the
summit, with 5-6 being Sherpa and 4 climbers. This means if other reports are true that
only 13 reached the summit. Only 2 to 3 could have been from other expeditions. (Updated
5/23/98: See a list of who reached the summit on our summit page.)
- Alternate Communication satellite up.
- Check back soon.
Update 5/20/98 11:30AM EST US
- Michael Strynoe turned around at 8300 meters
due to frostbitten feet he got earlier (see below). He is not expected to attempt the
summit again this spring.
- Galaxy 4 Communication satellite down.
- Very little e-mail information.
- Check back soon.
Update 5/20/98 8:00AM EST US
- Very little news is coming in. It is now 5:59
Nepal time.
Update 5/20/98 US
- Numerous climbers attempted the summit
yesterday from Nepal. Summit success for some climbers is confirmed. Appa Sherpa (his
eighth time, assisting Bob Hoffman's team this year) and Wally Berg believed to be among
the climbers that reached the summit.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/19/98 2:26 PM EST US
- Numerous climbers are expected to leave for
the summit at around 11:00 PM (Nepal). Some sources are reporting good weather for one to
two more days, other sources expect the weather to turn to snow in the AM.
- As we reported earlier, there was light snow
cover on the mountain early in the season. This latest snow cover is not compacted making
for dangerous conditions. If the snow storm occurs, climbers could have a difficult time
during the descent.
- Some climbers are expected to make a second
attempt, which is very dangerous. Other climbers, including Wally Berg, himself, spend the
night at Camp 4, which is not preferred. If these climber decide to climb, we could have
some very weak and slow climbers.
- We expect some teams not to leave for the
summit, but to descend to lower camps because of the snow conditions.
- Our prayers are with them, should they
decide.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/19/98 11:04 AM EST US
- Sherpa climbers refused to go on last night
from the south summit citing dangerous snow conditions, coupled with numerous
inexperienced climbers, many of which were running short on energy. On a day when the
climbers have perfect weather, climbers ascended very quickly up from camp 4, and then
started slowing as rapidly as they were ascending. At least one climber collapsed on the
way back from the south summit. The climber was assisted by Sherpa and returned to camp
4.
- As we reported earlier, there was light snow
cover on the mountain early in the season. This latest snow cover is not compacted making
for dangerous conditions.
Update 5/19/98 00:02 AM EST US
- Climbers are turning back from the south
summit ! On a day when the climbers have perfect weather, climbers ascended very quickly
up from camp 4, and then started slowing as rapidly as they were ascending. Wally Berg's
team then turned around ! Ropes on Hillary's step are not believed to be fixed by
Berg's team. The climbers turned around very early in the day. We are speculating many
climbers must have been drained of energy from the rapid ascend. We are not sure if any
climbers continued.
Update 5/18/98 10:02PM EST US
- The race is on to summit before the weather
changes. The summit window still appears open. Numerous climbers are climbing toward the
summit. We believe the climbers consist of a partial teams from Wally Berg, Henry Todd,
Singapore, Iran, and Michael Strynoe the Danish climber.
- As expected Wally Berg's Sherpa
are
apparently leading.
- The window might be closing. Some climbers
are worried that bad weather (mainly snow) will hit again early on May 20th (Nepal), which
would affect the 30 to 40 climbers that are expected to leave camp 4 on Tuesday night
(Nepal).
Update 5/18/98 2:02PM EST US
- The race is on to summit before the weather
changes.
- The summit window still appears open.
- Reports of snow on the way.
- Numerous climbers are leaving Camp 4.
- Who will come back from the summit ?
NEWSFLASH Update 5/18/98 8:40 AM EST US
- The window might be closing. Some climbers
are worried that bad weather will hit again early on May 20th (Nepal).
- Several climbers are expected to leave for
the south summit at 10:00 to 11:00 PM Nepal Monday night.
Update 5/17/98 US
- The summit window appears to be opening !
- Many climbers are at Camp 2 and some at Camp
3 on the mountain.
- The storm damage is real. The fresh snow is
not compacted. The avalanche danger is real.
- Who will risk it all, who will wait, many
questions to be answered in the next few days.
- Many inexperienced teams and many
inexperienced climbers.
- Many seem to be looking to Wally Berg for
leadership.
- Will they all wait for Berg to break trough
the snow ? Or will someone else take to lead? We expect most to wait.
- But the window might not wait !
Update 5/16/98 US
- Most climbers are busy moving up the
mountain.
- It appears teams will be able to salvage most
of their gear lost in the storm.
- As reported earlier, we expect the break in
the weather to continue with a potential summit window in the time frame May 17th to May
21st. It is not possible to tell if the window will continue beyond May 21st.
Update 5/15/98 US
- Things are looking up on the South Side, as
well. Many expeditions are making summit plans. Much of the supplies have been located.
The expeditions are working together.
- Climbers are moving up the mountain again.
- As we reported yesterday. We expect a small
break in the weather to occur with a potential summit window in the time frame May 17th to
May 21st. Whether the window will continue beyond May 21st, is not possible to tell at
this time.
- Check the latest email from Adventure
Consultants on our EverestNews.com page. It might be a sign (the weather).
Update 5/14/98 US
- We expect a small break in the weather to
occur with a potential summit window in the time frame May 17th to May 21st. Whether the
window will continue beyond May 21st, is not possible to tell at this time.
- All teams are still assessing the damage of
the storm with no news on the status of Camp 3 and 4 conditions.
Update 5/13/98 US
- As reported yesterday many expeditions are
rethinking Everest 98. Some teams are expected to head home, others are expected to form
smaller summit teams with the gear they have left.
- All teams are assessing the damage.
- Cooperation after the storm is reported
excellent with teams assisting one another.
- Patience and strength are necessary on
Everest.
Update 5/12/98 US
- The jet stream has forced many expeditions to
rethink Everest 98.
- Some tents and supplies for teams at Camp 2
& 3 are lost.
- We understand the Danish "Solo"
Climber, Michael Strynoe, got mild frostbite from the storm. However, he's is planning on
giving the summit another go in a few days if the weather breaks.
- Iranian climbers are in good shape with no
apparent ill effects from their time at the South Col.
Update 5/11/98 US
- The arrival of a jet stream has forced most
Sherpa back down the mountain.
- Summit attempts are not expected until at
least May 17th.
Update 5/10/98
- Many Sherpa climbers are still at high camps.
- Summit attempts are not expected until at
least May 12th.
- Cooperation negotiations continue.
Update 5/9/98 US
- Many Sherpa climbers are at high camps
checking on the mountain.
- Summit attempts are not expected until the
12th.
- No news on the Iranians. Cooperation
negotiations continue.
Update 5/8/98 US
- Iranian climbers are at high camps.
- Other teams are still in base camp.
- Various Sherpa are still stocking Camp IV.
- Wally Berg's Sherpa are expected to lead up
the mountain.
Update 5/7/98 US
- The weather has still not broke with the mild
storm continuing (up high).
- We are sticking to our report that Summit
Attempts are not expected until at least May 12th. However, there are reports that earlier
attempts could occur.
- Cooperation negotiations continue.
Update 5/6/98 US
- The weather has not broke with the storm
continuing (up high).
- Some teams are preparing to leave Base Camp
with the apparent thought of being out in front on summit day.
- Sherpa are expressing disappointment and
outrage with the summit fever being shown this year on the South Side.
- Sherpa are also expressing disappointment
with the lack of experience of some climbers and the lack of cooperation that keeps
appearing.
Update 5/5/98 US
- The lines are fixed to the South Col.
- The intensifying storm is continuing (up
high) with strong wind.
- Summit attempts are not expected until at
least May 12th.
- Camp 4 is still not fully established and
supplied for some teams.
- Cooperation problems might become the story
of 98 Everest.
Update 5/4/98 US
- The storm is intensifying in size (up high)
with strong wind.
- Summit attempts still not expected until the
end of the week at the earliest.
- Most expeditions at base camp or below base
camp.
- Sherpa for some teams have Camp 4
established, some other teams do not have Camp 4 established.
- Various approaches taken by different
expeditions.
Update 5/3/98 US
- Wind is increasing up high with a minor
(Everest) storm
- Summit attempts are not expected until the
end of the week at the earliest.
- Some climbers still acclimatizing.
- Most expeditions at base camp or below base
camp.
- Sherpa for some teams have Camp 4 established
other teams do not have Camp 4 established.
- Various approaches taken by different
expeditions.
Updates 5/2/98 US
- Some climbers still acclimatizing at Camp 2
and 3.
- Many expeditions descended below base camp.
- Sherpa are completing the fixed lines to
South Col.
- Sherpa still stocking high camps with oxygen
and supplies.
- Various approaches taken by different
expeditions.
Updated 5/1/98 US
- Some climbers still acclimatizing at Camp 2
and 3.
- Other expeditions descending below base camp.
- Sherpa are completing the fixed lines to
South Col.
- Sherpa stocking high camps with oxygen for
some expeditions.
- Various approaches taken by different
expeditions.
Updated 4/30/98 US
- Significant avalanche danger.
- Many climbers are at Camp 2 and Camp 3.
- Cooperation is reported improving.
- Most climbers acclimatizing well, but some
inexperienced climbers reported hard going.
- The Lhotse face is a hard blue ice with light
snow cover.
- Numerous inexperienced teams on the South
side.
- There are concerned climbers worried about
summit day.
Updated 4/29/98 US
- The ropes to the South Col are not fixed yet.
- Many teams are still in various stages of
acclimatization.
- Most teams are expected to descend to wait on
the climbing window.
Updated 4/29/98 US
- Many teams going up to camp 3 to sleep.
- Sherpa are establishing camp 4, for some
teams.
- Light snow at base camp.
- Camp 2 established for most teams.
- Many teams on the South Side again this year.
- Several teams with inexperienced members.
- Some problems involving cooperation are
reported.
- The greenhouse effect is showing on the South
Side also with temperatures last week around 60 degrees during the day and the teens at
night.
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