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 Shishapangma 2000

Update 2/26/2001: Greek Shishapangma Autumn 2000 expedition

Three Greek climbers from the Greek Shishapangma Autumn 2000 expedition reached the Central Summit of Shishapangma on October 4th at 10:30 in the morning along with two Sherpa climbers. "We were there the same time with four members of the Korean expedition and we have pictures with them. Our Sherpa were Mr. Sonam Dendu and Kanchha Nuru from Thamserku trekking company." Konstantinos Apostolopoulos

The names of the climbers were :

a.) Tsivelekas, Konstantinos (captain) summit.

b.) Argiris, George summit.

c.) Apostolopoulos, Konstantinos summit.

d.) Papakonstantinou Takis 1st camp 6200.  

e.) Sonam Dendu Summit

f.) Kanchha Nuru Summit

They Summitted by the north route. 

Click on the above pictures for the full sized versions.

Update: Charlie Fowler and Christine Boskoff summited the main summit of Shishapangma on October 10th via the Southwest face.

Update: 10/17/2000

ANNA CZERWINSKA

    The first Polish woman to reach the 7 Summits. She is a D.S (Pharmacy) but she left medicine science for mountains and now is a business woman, owner of purchasing firm. She has been climbing for 32 years usually in women teams, last years solitary. In summer 1977 with Krystyna Palmowska she climbed North Face of Matterhorn. The first ever time women climbed such a difficult wall. In 1978 with Krystyna Palmowska, Wanda Rutkiewicz and Irena Kesa they climbed North Face of Matterhorn in winter, again - the first women team did it. That was sensation in European mountaineering world. Anna Czerwinska was a member of Polish Gasherbrums Expedition in 1975. In 1979 with Krystyna Palmowska, they climbed on new route Rakaposhi (7788 m) in Pakistan. In 1983 they both climbed Broad Peak-Rocky Summit. It was the only two women expedition. She tried to reach the top of K2 three times: in 1982, 1984 and 1986. Last time she was a witness of tragedy when 13 climbers died on this mountain. In 1985 she was on a summit of Nanga Parbat with Wanda Rutkiewicz and Krystyna Palmowska - the first women team on a top without support of men. She tried two times to climb Kanchenjunga: in 1980 and in 1990 as a leader of expedition. She led Makalu Expedition in 1988 and was a member of Makalu Expedition in winter 1990. Last years she "collected" the highest summits of continents: Aconcagua (South America) and Kilimanjaro (Africa) in 1995 r.; Mount McKinley (North America), Elbrus (Europa) and  Kosciuszko Mountain (Australia) in 1996 r.; Mt Vinson (Antarctica) in 1998 r.; Carstensz (Australia with Oceania ) in 1999 r.; Mount Everest (Asia) in 2000 r. How many times she reached Mont Blanc it is difficult her to count, because she climbed many times in Alps and when she finished routes in a massif of Mont Blanc she often passed the summit. 

She is an author or coauthor of many books about climbing on Matterhorn, Gasherbrum, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, K2. This December will be published her new book about 7 Summits. She has two special records: in July 2000 she finished 50 years, so she was the oldest woman on a top of Mount Everest.

Yours faithfully, Monika Rogozinska 

Update: 10/14/2000

Anna Czerwinska has does it AGAIN !. She is in Kathmandu. She reached the top of Shisha Pangma [Central or Main Summit??] on 6th of October 2000 with Sherpa Pasang with whom she was also on a top of Mount Everest this May (from Nepal side). Before Shisha Pangma she tried to reach Cho Oyu in September 2000. She reached with Korean climbers 8070 m. It was on 19th, September. There was wind, deep snow and mist, so they could not reach the top from plateau near the summit. Later became stormy winds. She left Cho Oyu base camp in September, 30th, because the permit for climbing was over. She went by jeep during the night to Shisha Pangma base camp. With Pasang they built camp I and camp II and on 5th of October they started from II camp at beautiful, quiet, peaceful night. Next morning they both reached the top of Shisha Pangma at 10,30. There were nobody more on whole mountain and in base camp. There were no fix ropes. Anna said that it was like on a virgin mountain. This July Anna turned 51 years [she is the oldest woman to Summit Everest].

Monika Rogozinska

Update: 10/7/2000

Season's first ascent of Shishapangma. by Ukranian climbers. 

On the other side of Himalaya, 5 Ukranian climbers: Leontyv Vadym, 49, Pugachov sergiy, 38, Yevchev Mykhaylo, 26, Pikhotskyy Vadym, 27 and Terzyul Vladyslav of  Ukranian Shishapangma & Cho-Oyu Expedition made fall season's first ascent of the 8046 meter high Shishapangma from the normal North Face and North West ridge route in two consecutive attempts on the 27 and 28 September. Among the successful climbers, Terzyal Vladyslav has left to climb Cho-Oyu while other team members have arrived Kathmandu to return home. Vladimir Mogila, the sixth member of this team, had to return home early arriving at the base camp due to health problems. The expedition was organized by Alpine Club of Odessa. 

Korean Success on the South West Face of Shishapangma
------------------------------------------------------------
Members of two Korean Expedition teams belonging to Dong-Guk University Alpine Club and Kumak Alpine Club of Republic of Korea made successful ascent of Mt. Shishapangma following a route on the South West Face of the mountain. Well known Korean alpinist and Expedition leader Park Young Seok, Kang Seung Gui and Sherpa sirdar Serap Jangbu Sherpa from the Dong - Guk University team were the first Korean team to reach the summit on the 02 October at 1.30 pm 

Serap Jangbu Sherpa, is the same Sherpa climber to summit K2 when he climbed K2 with Korea's climber Mr. Um Hong Gil. 

Alpinists Lee Hyeon Jo, Lee Gin Kun and Kwon Sun Jeon were the successful climbers from the Kumak alpine Club team who reached the summit of this mountain on 05 October at 5.50pm. This expedition team is lead by Chang Jae Gyu. 

Ang Karma Sherpa
Windhorse Trekking (P) Ltd.

Previous Updates...

Several Expeditions appear to have plans to attempt Shishapangma (Xixapangma ) this Autumn 2000. Included in these climbers is the Famous climber from Korea, Park Young Seok.. Park is working on the Quest for all 14 8000 meter peaks.

Here is his report:

We are 4 members and 9 members are joined so  total 13 members and 2 sherpas
 
This is the our Itenery of xixapangma south face expedition.
 
2nd Sep - arrive Kathmandu
8th Sep - kodari - nyalam
11th - 13th Sep - nyalam to Basecamp ( south face ) - France team. Spain team but another route. in Basecamp
18th -  set up ABC ( last of  glacier )
22nd - make fixed rope from ABC to camp 1 about 600m  face are about 45 - 60 degree
23th - set up tent on camp 1 ( 6700m ) named rock of eagle - very sharp ridge
24th - bring baggage to camp 1 and back Basecamp 
25th - 27th - stay in Basecamp
28th - go up to ABC
 
 
our plan is
 
29th  camp 1
30 th make 600m fixed rope until start of col to summit  and dig snow hole and stay 1 night
1st Oct  - try to summit
 
 
It is our itenery.
 
best regard.
 
Park young seok.
 

Update: 10/2/2000

Hello Park young - seok from Korea here. 

I just summit xixapangma today main peak (8027m) with south face route with 3 members (Mr. Kang seong gyu , Mr. Oh hee june, Mr. Jangbu Sherpa). We set up camp1 on 6700m and on 7200m, 7700m dig snow hole and stayed. We started from 7700m today am 5;30 and summit pm 2; 30 best regard

Mr. Park young seok

Mr. Park now only has K2 to Summit to complete the 14 8000 meter peaks !

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