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Update
2/26/2001: Greek
Shishapangma Autumn 2000 expedition
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Three
Greek climbers from the Greek
Shishapangma Autumn 2000 expedition reached the Central Summit of Shishapangma on October
4th at 10:30 in the morning along with two Sherpa
climbers. "We were there the
same time with four members of the Korean expedition and we have pictures
with them. Our Sherpa were Mr. Sonam Dendu and Kanchha
Nuru from Thamserku trekking company."
Konstantinos Apostolopoulos |
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The
names of the climbers were :
a.)
Tsivelekas, Konstantinos (captain) summit.
b.)
Argiris, George summit.
c.)
Apostolopoulos, Konstantinos summit.
d.)
Papakonstantinou Takis 1st camp 6200.
e.)
Sonam
Dendu Summit
f.)
Kanchha Nuru Summit
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They
Summitted by the north route. |
Click
on the above pictures for the full sized versions.
Update:
Charlie Fowler and Christine Boskoff summited the main
summit of Shishapangma on October 10th via the
Southwest face.
Update:
10/17/2000
ANNA
CZERWINSKA
The first Polish woman to reach the 7 Summits. She is
a D.S (Pharmacy) but she left medicine science for
mountains and now is a business woman, owner of
purchasing firm. She has been climbing for 32 years
usually in women teams, last years solitary. In summer
1977 with Krystyna Palmowska she climbed North Face of
Matterhorn. The first ever time women climbed such a
difficult wall. In 1978 with Krystyna Palmowska, Wanda
Rutkiewicz and Irena Kesa they climbed North Face of
Matterhorn in winter, again - the first women team did
it. That was sensation in European mountaineering
world. Anna Czerwinska was a member of Polish
Gasherbrums Expedition in 1975. In 1979 with Krystyna
Palmowska, they climbed on new route Rakaposhi (7788
m) in Pakistan. In 1983 they both climbed Broad Peak-Rocky
Summit. It was the only two women expedition. She
tried to reach the top of K2 three times: in 1982, 1984
and 1986. Last time she was a witness of tragedy when
13 climbers died on this mountain. In 1985 she was on
a summit of Nanga Parbat with Wanda Rutkiewicz and
Krystyna Palmowska - the first women team on a top
without support of men. She tried two times to climb
Kanchenjunga: in 1980 and in 1990 as a leader of
expedition. She led Makalu Expedition in 1988 and was
a member of Makalu Expedition in winter 1990. Last
years she "collected" the highest summits of
continents: Aconcagua (South America) and Kilimanjaro
(Africa) in 1995 r.; Mount McKinley (North America),
Elbrus (Europa) and Kosciuszko Mountain
(Australia) in 1996 r.; Mt Vinson (Antarctica) in 1998
r.; Carstensz (Australia with Oceania ) in 1999 r.;
Mount Everest (Asia) in 2000 r. How many times she
reached Mont Blanc it is difficult her to count,
because she climbed many times in Alps and when she
finished routes in a massif of Mont Blanc she often
passed the summit.
She
is an author or coauthor of many books about climbing
on Matterhorn, Gasherbrum, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat,
K2. This December will be published her new book about
7 Summits. She has two special records: in July 2000
she finished 50 years, so she was the oldest woman on
a top of Mount Everest.
Yours
faithfully, Monika Rogozinska
Update:
10/14/2000
Anna
Czerwinska has does it AGAIN !. She is in Kathmandu.
She reached the top of Shisha Pangma [Central or Main
Summit??] on 6th of
October 2000 with Sherpa Pasang with whom she was also
on a top of Mount Everest this May (from Nepal side).
Before Shisha Pangma she tried to reach Cho Oyu in
September 2000. She reached with Korean climbers 8070
m. It was on 19th, September. There was wind, deep
snow and mist, so they could not reach the top from
plateau near the summit. Later became stormy winds.
She left Cho Oyu base camp in September, 30th, because
the permit for climbing was over. She went by jeep
during the night to Shisha Pangma base camp. With
Pasang they built camp I and camp II and on 5th of
October they started from II camp at beautiful, quiet,
peaceful night. Next morning they both reached the top
of Shisha Pangma at 10,30. There were nobody more on
whole mountain and in base camp. There were no fix
ropes. Anna said that it was like on a virgin
mountain. This July Anna turned 51 years [she is the
oldest woman to Summit Everest].
Monika
Rogozinska
Update:
10/7/2000
Season's
first ascent of Shishapangma. by Ukranian climbers.
On
the other side of Himalaya, 5 Ukranian climbers:
Leontyv Vadym, 49, Pugachov sergiy, 38, Yevchev
Mykhaylo, 26, Pikhotskyy Vadym, 27 and Terzyul
Vladyslav of Ukranian Shishapangma & Cho-Oyu
Expedition made fall season's first ascent of the 8046
meter high Shishapangma from the normal North Face and
North West ridge route in two consecutive attempts on
the 27 and 28 September. Among the successful
climbers, Terzyal Vladyslav has left to climb Cho-Oyu
while other team members have arrived Kathmandu to
return home. Vladimir Mogila, the sixth member of this
team, had to return home early arriving at the base
camp due to health problems. The expedition was
organized by Alpine Club of Odessa.
Korean
Success on the South West Face of Shishapangma
------------------------------------------------------------
Members of two Korean Expedition teams belonging to
Dong-Guk University Alpine Club and Kumak Alpine Club
of Republic of Korea made successful ascent of Mt. Shishapangma
following a route on the South West Face of the
mountain. Well known Korean alpinist and Expedition
leader Park Young Seok, Kang
Seung Gui and Sherpa sirdar Serap Jangbu Sherpa from
the Dong - Guk University team were the first Korean
team to reach the summit on the 02 October at 1.30
pm
Serap
Jangbu Sherpa, is the same Sherpa climber to summit K2
when he climbed K2 with Korea's climber Mr. Um Hong
Gil.
Alpinists
Lee Hyeon Jo, Lee Gin Kun and Kwon Sun Jeon were the
successful climbers from the Kumak alpine Club team
who reached the summit of this mountain on 05 October
at 5.50pm. This expedition team is lead by Chang Jae
Gyu.
Ang
Karma Sherpa
Windhorse Trekking (P) Ltd.
Previous
Updates...
Several Expeditions appear to have plans to attempt
Shishapangma (Xixapangma
) this
Autumn 2000. Included in these climbers is the Famous
climber from Korea, Park
Young Seok.. Park is working on the Quest for all 14
8000 meter peaks.
Here is his report:
We are 4 members and 9 members are
joined so total 13 members and 2 sherpas
This is the our Itenery of xixapangma
south face expedition.
2nd Sep - arrive Kathmandu
8th Sep - kodari - nyalam
11th - 13th Sep - nyalam to Basecamp ( south face ) -
France team. Spain team but another
route. in Basecamp
18th - set up ABC ( last of
glacier )
22nd - make fixed rope from ABC to
camp 1 about 600m face are about 45 - 60
degree
23th - set up tent on camp 1 ( 6700m
) named rock of eagle - very sharp ridge
24th - bring baggage to camp 1 and
back Basecamp
25th - 27th - stay in Basecamp
28th - go up to ABC
our plan is
29th camp 1
30 th make 600m fixed rope until start
of col to summit and dig snow hole and stay 1
night
1st Oct - try to summit
It is our itenery.
best regard.
Park young seok.
Update:
10/2/2000
Hello
Park young - seok from Korea here.
I
just summit xixapangma today main peak (8027m) with
south face route with 3 members (Mr. Kang seong gyu ,
Mr. Oh hee june, Mr. Jangbu Sherpa). We set up camp1
on 6700m and on 7200m, 7700m dig snow hole and stayed.
We started from 7700m today am 5;30 and summit pm 2;
30 best regard
Mr.
Park young seok
Mr.
Park now only has K2 to Summit to
complete the 14 8000 meter peaks !
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