The Mountains of Pakistan: Diran Peak 7266 meters

Like other peaks in Pakistan it has also two names Diran Peak and Minapin Peak. It is situated in Rakaposhi and Haramosh mountain region near the Minapin, Hinarchi and Baultar glaciers. It is easily accessible because of the Karakoram Highway.

A three member Austrian expedition, which included Rainer Goschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell, climbed this peak in 1968. They set up camp 1 at 4800m. Big crevasses, inclement weather and deep snow are recorded between camp 1 at 4800m and camp II at 5500m. It was the camp III at 6300m that the party was able to reach the peak, which it termed as a “big summit plateau”. Their line of ascent, a rising traverse across the convoluted North Face to reach the crest of the West Ridge and then back up this to the summit. Has become the standard route on the mountain. Although technically very straightforward in good snow condition (30 degree on the face and around 40 degree on the ridge), the route has reputation for objective danger and avalanche risk.

In 1959, a German Karakoram expedition led by Hans Jochen Schneider attempted this peak and on 9th June, Erwin Stocker and one porter reach a 18000 foot col situated to the north of Minapin. Subsequently, the party could reach a place, which was less then one thousand feet short of northwest face of the summit.

In 1964, a three members Austrian expedition from Salzburg attempted this peak from northwest face but failed due to bad weather and danger avalanches.

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