2002 PEACE CLIMB TO PAKISTAN'S KARAKORUM RANGE

Hello EverestNews.com, The weather has not been cooperating.  Weather conditions here are variable.  By variable here we mean that we get every possible conditions all within the same hour.  This week in the beginning we have had a lot of snow fall in evening and morning and then it would get very warm in the morning and by noon all the snow has melted.  And the afternoon high winds  bringing all sorts of weather.   The later part of this week is extremely variable, we get high winds, snow, sun, rain all within the hour.  All the weather reports say the weather is bad. But yesterday the weather was perfect, sunny and little wind.  So the weather forecast for the following days...variable.  For now everything looks good up to camp2, above this altitude there is significant wind, we can see it but the weather report say that there are 70mph winds.

Although we have been stuck here in Base camp there has been some activity.  A Korean expedition arrived the day of the last dispatch.  Its an expedition of 6 men and 1 woman and two high altitude porters.  It is lead by Mr. Han Wang-Yong a very veteran climber.  If he summits on Broad Peak it will be his 13th, 8000 mt summit.  We haven't really had a chance to speak with them.  Their camp is about 600 feet away and they began climbing the mountain right away.  The have arrived at camp2 they are going well, all of us here can't really believe their push, they have not acclimatized at all.

Yesterday, Fernando wanted to get more food up to ABC, so I tagged along.   I finally got to see all these things they have been talking about.  On our way we met with Chris Warner a member of a K2 expedition, which Fernando had met last year at Everest.  The weather is even worse at K2 and they have decided to "acclimatize" on Broad Peak, but I think things are so bad there they might climb Broad Peak instead unless K2 weather improves.  So now there are 3 expeditions on Broad Peak.

Today, we have received very bad news.  Arne, one of the Germans has been acclimatizing up at ABC and today went to camp2 and radioed in with the news.  The three tents that were there are completely covered and crushed, of which one of them was ours.  He couldn't really tell to what extent they were damaged.  Right now we are not sure of what needs to be done.  This is the same tent that is needed for the summit push at camp3.  So now we are without tent for camp2 and camp3

Alberto

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