2002 PEACE CLIMB TO PAKISTAN'S KARAKORUM RANGE

Hello to all friends from the Broad Peak Base Camp,

We have been extremely unlucky with the weather this year at Karakorum. In one month of climbing time, we had only three climbable days. And, as now the expedition itinerary is about to be finished, we are packing and ready to go. I want to tell you about our progress and summit bid in the mountain.

As you know from the previous dispatches, we had put our camp 1 and 2 high up the mountain and as we had also carried our high camp equipment for camp 3, and we we were ready to go to the top. Finally, Fernando and I moved to the camp one but the weather was again not cooperative, with high winds and cloud cover. Also the weather report did not promise good, and after all the precipitation of the past month, we predicted the snow high up after camp 2 and 3 to be deep and avalanche prone. At this point the German commercial expedition (Amical Team, which provided us with the base camp service only), decided to finalize the expedition because of the adverse conditions. It did not took us long to take the same decision, and we divided the task of evacuating the equipment at camp 1 and 2 between Fernando and I. Considering to continue would be vain on my behalf - and unsafe also- so I would haul our heavy gear here in camp 1 and Fernando would go high up to camp 2 to retrieve our broken and buried tent there. He would also bring down the remaining gear, and he wanted to sleep there,  maybe try to go up if the weather let him to do so.

So down I went, with an unbelievably heavy pack of nearly 35 kilograms, and up went Fernando to camp 2.. There, he tried to go higher up with the best intentions, starting at 11 pm. and forged ahead in snow , facing high winds.. He kept walking all night long. But he had to retreat in the face of a very strong wind and deep snow at an altitude of 7600 meters, and was back safely in the base camp later in the same day, also carrying down an extremely heavy pack- nearly 40 kilograms!

So our attempt as a team ended, as the other climbers of powerful Spanish-American and Korean teams also did not get to the top because of the same reasons- high winds and a very serious avalanche danger.

Until here and at all the times, our partnership and attempt at this beautiful mountain was extraordinary, as it should be in the perfect Peace Climb, and we believe that Fernando, Alberto and I have had very good relationships with all the people around, from all nations, from all races and religions. The essence of being a good person and a good climber is, in our opinion lying on having  a love of humans and being in peace with yourself and the mountain you are on. Sometimes the mountain does not want you on her shoulders, and you must again be in peace with her and maybe try again later to be friend with her.. This was the case in our ascent and , beyond all the difficulties- heavy loads, high wind, waiting out bad weather and so- we believe as a team we did our best, be in peace with anyone and the mountain, and most important, inside our team we are finishing this climb as best friends ever.

Tomorrow we will begin our long trek back to Skardu, and this happens to be our last (but not the least!) e-mail to all of our followers. It is our sincerest duty to wish the people and companies who had supported us, helped this dream of Karakorum come true.. Believe us, we think about you every day!

We hope to be together, as a larger Peace Climb Team, soon at another location on the worlds mountains- until then, remain in peace!

TUNC FINDIK and FERNANDO GONZALEZ RUBIO signing off from Broad Peak Base Camp.

Alberto, Tunc and Fernando!

Dispatches

Click here for
Home
Daily News
2002 Peace Climb Introduction
Peace Climb Dispatches
Tunc Findik
Fernando Gonzales Rubio
Alberto Carrizosa
2001 Peace Climb
Facts & History
Maps
Route
Itinerary
Gallery
Broad Peak
Buy Gear
Buy Books
We ask you give to The Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund