2002
PEACE CLIMB TO PAKISTAN'S KARAKORUM
RANGE
Hello to all
friends from the Broad Peak Base Camp,
We have been
extremely unlucky with the weather this year at
Karakorum. In one month of climbing time, we had
only three climbable days. And, as now the
expedition itinerary is about to be finished, we
are packing and ready to go. I want to tell you
about our progress and summit bid in the mountain.
As you know from
the previous dispatches, we had put our camp 1 and
2 high up the mountain and as we had also carried
our high camp equipment for camp 3, and we we were
ready to go to the top. Finally, Fernando and I
moved to the camp one but the weather was again
not cooperative, with high winds and cloud cover.
Also the weather report did not promise good, and
after all the precipitation of the past month, we
predicted the snow high up after camp 2 and 3 to
be deep and avalanche prone. At this point the
German commercial expedition (Amical Team,
which provided us with the base camp service
only), decided to finalize the expedition because
of the adverse conditions. It did not took us long
to take the same decision, and we divided the task
of evacuating the equipment at camp 1 and 2
between Fernando and I. Considering to continue
would be vain on my behalf - and unsafe also- so I
would haul our heavy gear here in camp 1 and
Fernando would go high up to camp 2 to retrieve
our broken and buried tent there. He would
also bring down the remaining gear, and he wanted
to sleep there, maybe try to go up if the weather
let him to do so.
So down I went,
with an unbelievably heavy pack of nearly 35
kilograms, and up went Fernando to camp 2.. There,
he tried to go higher up with the best intentions,
starting at 11 pm. and forged ahead in snow
, facing high winds.. He kept walking all night
long. But he had to retreat in the face of a very
strong wind and deep snow at an altitude of 7600
meters, and was back safely in the base camp later
in the same day, also carrying down an extremely
heavy pack- nearly 40 kilograms!
So our attempt as
a team ended, as the other climbers of powerful
Spanish-American and Korean teams also did not get
to the top because of the same reasons- high winds
and a very serious avalanche danger.
Until here and at
all the times, our partnership and attempt at this
beautiful mountain was extraordinary, as it should
be in the perfect Peace Climb, and we believe that
Fernando, Alberto and I have had very good
relationships with all the people around, from all
nations, from all races and religions. The essence
of being a good person and a good climber is, in
our opinion lying on having a love of humans and
being in peace with yourself and the mountain you
are on. Sometimes the mountain does not want you
on her shoulders, and you must again be in peace
with her and maybe try again later to be friend
with her.. This was the case in our ascent and ,
beyond all the difficulties- heavy loads, high
wind, waiting out bad weather and so- we believe
as a team we did our best, be in peace with anyone
and the mountain, and most important, inside our
team we are finishing this climb as best friends
ever.
Tomorrow we will
begin our long trek back to Skardu, and this
happens to be our last (but not the least!) e-mail
to all of our followers. It is our sincerest duty
to wish the people and companies who had supported
us, helped this dream of Karakorum come true..
Believe us, we think about you every day!
We hope to be
together, as a larger Peace Climb Team, soon at
another location on the worlds mountains- until
then, remain in peace!
TUNC FINDIK and
FERNANDO GONZALEZ RUBIO signing off from Broad
Peak Base Camp.

Alberto, Tunc and Fernando!
Dispatches
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