8000 Meter Peaks

Cho Oyu
Nanga Parbat
Broad Peak

Seven Summits

Vinson Massif
Carstensz Pyramid
Mount Kosciusko

Without our sponsors, you wouldn't see this site, please visit our sponsors. 

imax.gif (11898 bytes)  

 Yamanoi & Kurtyka Opened New Route in Karakoram

South Face of Central Peak of Biacherahi Tower 5900m

“What do you think about the North Face of Latok? Let us climb it together in August when there is less danger of falling stones as it is getting colder.” One day after coming back from K2 in 2000, Yasushi Yamanoi received this message from Wojciech Kurtyka.

Thus pair of outstanding climbers met again in Karakoram at the end of July 2001 with a bold objective to scale the North Face of Latok I (7145m) from Choktoi Glacier. Sheer ice exceeding 1000m high and a 600m head wall were ever threatening. Yamanoi felt that it would be a supreme climb if a direct were developed, though viable cracks had so far not been found on the wall.

On the 20th of July 2001 Yasushi and his wife Taeko joined Kurtyka at Islamabad Airport and after five days they setup BC in rain and wind at 4500m on Chokotoi Glacier. On the morning of the following day sunshine returned and brilliant peaks surrounding the glacier emerged on after another from behind clouds which were now gradually disappearing. Coming into view to the left was the pure white North Face of Latok; in front of Ogre II resembling Jannu and the beautiful pyramid of Baintha Brak; and to the right Biacherahi Tower which in shape resembles Paine. It seemed to be a landscape picture which is typical of Karakoram.

The following is a translation of the text written by Yasushi Yamanoi.

 “With binoculars we carefully searched for possible climbing routes on the mountains in the vicinity. However luck was not with us. Our first objective, the North Face of Latok I was exposed to the danger of avalanches. On the other hand, to the right, Biacherahi Tower, which soared into the sky like a multistory building, attracted out attention and interest. Therefore as an alternative we had not hesitation in deciding to climb it first.

 “An Approach to south Ridge was rather hard. Frightening crevasses on the glacier set malicious traps, which at any time could cause us to fall into a bottomless pit. A step couloirs that that led to a point where we could start climbing was subjected to frequent falling rocks, too. In selection the first pitch we went for different opportunity. I instead on a bit more difficult but beautiful line that would put us in a more exposed position while Wojciech want to choose a route of diedre that was a weakness of the wall.”

 “on the first day I led the pitches up weathered gray rock and returned to BC after having fixed a rope en route. The second assault was the beginning of substantial climbing. Every pitch was so hard that the top leading each pitch got nervous, and the second belaying to the top had to be at a standstill for many hours and paid out a rope sometimes looking at crystals of granite rocks.”

 We broke through a fragile rock flake of nearly 300kg. We climbed a crack more than 100m long that stood in our way. To our regret, however, because snowstorms came back again, we returned to BC in this bad weather a Norwegian party was on the North ridge of Latok in spite of slimmest possibility of successfully completing the climb and reaching the summit. The ridge remains as one of the problems to be solved for many alpine climbers. I much appreciate their intensity and energetic power.”

The third assault enabled us to succeed in reaching the summit. Wojciech overcame the not so hard but dangerous degree of a climbing grade 5.10 with the utmost care for unstable rocks and stones. One the last day of climbing, which was August 14, it was about to snow. Take led the final pitch to climb a crack and reached a gentle ridge, 30m ahead of which there was the sharp pointed summit. Ten minutes later all three of us gathered atop Central Peak of Biacherahi. It took six days to complete the climb. In the first half Aid over A2 was needed. Knife blades and PR were applied very often. “

 “It was not a crucial ascent, as Wojciech said ‘A Japanese-Polish Picnic’, but we felt happy and fully satisfied with the outcome. After completing the climb of Biacherahi Tower, Wojciech and I considered attempting the North face of  Latok I, but since the conditions had not improved, we left BC to return home.” (Editor’s note: The height of Biacherahi Central Tower is assumed to be close to 6000m. A Japanese specialist on Karakoram & Hindukush estimates that the altitude would be 5800-5900m).

For this article we are thankful to Mr. Tamotsu Nakamura of Japan Alpine Club. Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com

wpe2.jpg (2012 bytes)

Daily News and Notes, what made this site famous among Everest climbers

Updated Everyday !



Send Mail to everestnews2004@adelphia.net.   Copyright©1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002. EverestNews.com  All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed. Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes. Read it.



Where to get the News and Expedition reports !



 The Best Source for Gear On-line

• Backcountry Gear
• Backpacks
• Bags & Luggage
• Bindings
• Binoculars
• Blankets & Pillows
• Boot & Fabric Care
• Cameras
• Camp Furniture
• Camping Accessories
• Car Racks
• Carabiners
• Cards
• Child Carriers
• Climbing Bags
• Compasses
• Cooking Supplies
• Cycling Components
• Cycling Repair
• Dry Bags
• Dry Boxes
• Electronics
• First Aid
• Fishing Accessories
• Fleece
• Float Tubes
• Fly Boxes
• Fly Line
• Fly Rods
• Fly Tying
• Fly Vests & Packs
• Food
• Footwear
• Gaiters
• Gifts & Games
• Gloves & Mittens
• Goggles
• Harnesses
• Hats
• Helmets
• Hydration Packs
• Indoor Climbing Gear
• Infant Apparel
• Jackets
• Kayaks
• Kid's Cycling Gear
• Kid's Paddling Gear
• Knives & Tools
• Leaders & Tippets
• Lifejackets/ PFDs
• Lights
• Locks
• Long Underwear
• Maps
• Messenger & Bike Bags
• Mountaineering Gear
• Neckwear
• Neoprene
• Nets
• Paddles & Oars
• Paddlewear
• Pants
• Pet Gear
• Poles
• Pontoons
• Prints & Posters
• Rafts
• Reels & Spools
• Rescue Gear
• Rock Climbing Gear
• Rod & Reel Kits
• Rod Tubes & Bags
• Ropes
• Shell Outerwear
• Shirts
• Shorts
• Showers & Toilets
• Skates & Scooters
• Ski & Board Repair
• Skirts & Dresses
• Skis
• Sleds and Tubes
• Sleeping Bags & Pads
• Snowboards
• Snowshoes
• Socks
• Sprayskirts
• Stoves
• Strollers
• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen & Repellant
• Sweaters
• Swimming
• Tents
• Travel Accessories
• Underwear
• Vests
• Videos
• Waders
• Watches & Clocks
• Water Bottles & Bags
• Water Filtration