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Yamanoi
& Kurtyka Opened New Route in Karakoram
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South Face of Central Peak of Biacherahi Tower
5900m What
do you think about the North Face of Latok? Let us
climb it together in August when there is less
danger of falling stones as it is getting colder.
One day after coming back from K2 in 2000, Yasushi
Yamanoi received this message from Wojciech
Kurtyka.
Thus pair of
outstanding climbers met again in Karakoram at the
end of July 2001 with a bold objective to scale
the North Face of Latok I (7145m) from Choktoi
Glacier. Sheer ice exceeding 1000m high and a 600m
head wall were ever threatening. Yamanoi felt that
it would be a supreme climb if a direct were
developed, though viable cracks had so far not
been found on the wall. |
On the 20th of July
2001 Yasushi and his wife Taeko joined Kurtyka at
Islamabad Airport and after five days they setup BC in
rain and wind at 4500m on Chokotoi Glacier. On the
morning of the following day sunshine returned and
brilliant peaks surrounding the glacier emerged on
after another from behind clouds which were now
gradually disappearing. Coming into view to the left
was the pure white North Face of Latok; in front of
Ogre II resembling Jannu and the beautiful pyramid of
Baintha Brak; and to the right Biacherahi Tower which
in shape resembles Paine. It seemed to be a landscape
picture which is typical of Karakoram.
The following is a
translation of the text written by Yasushi Yamanoi.
With binoculars we
carefully searched for possible climbing routes on the
mountains in the vicinity. However luck was not with
us. Our first objective, the North Face of Latok I was
exposed to the danger of avalanches. On the other
hand, to the right, Biacherahi Tower, which soared
into the sky like a multistory building, attracted out
attention and interest. Therefore as an alternative we
had not hesitation in deciding to climb it first.
An Approach to
south Ridge was rather hard. Frightening crevasses on
the glacier set malicious traps, which at any time
could cause us to fall into a bottomless pit. A step
couloirs that that led to a point where we could start
climbing was subjected to frequent falling rocks, too.
In selection the first pitch we went for different
opportunity. I instead on a bit more difficult but
beautiful line that would put us in a more exposed
position while Wojciech want to choose a route of
diedre that was a weakness of the wall.
on the first day I
led the pitches up weathered gray rock and returned to
BC after having fixed a rope en route. The second
assault was the beginning of substantial climbing.
Every pitch was so hard that the top leading each
pitch got nervous, and the second belaying to the top
had to be at a standstill for many hours and paid out
a rope sometimes looking at crystals of granite
rocks.
We broke through a
fragile rock flake of nearly 300kg. We climbed a crack
more than 100m long that stood in our way. To our
regret, however, because snowstorms came back again,
we returned to BC in this bad weather a Norwegian
party was on the North ridge of Latok in spite of
slimmest possibility of successfully completing the
climb and reaching the summit. The ridge remains as
one of the problems to be solved for many alpine
climbers. I much appreciate their intensity and
energetic power.
The third assault
enabled us to succeed in reaching the summit. Wojciech
overcame the not so hard but dangerous degree of a
climbing grade 5.10 with the utmost care for unstable
rocks and stones. One the last day of climbing, which
was August 14, it was about to snow. Take led the
final pitch to climb a crack and reached a gentle
ridge, 30m ahead of which there was the sharp pointed
summit. Ten minutes later all three of us gathered
atop Central Peak of Biacherahi. It took six days to
complete the climb. In the first half Aid over A2 was
needed. Knife blades and PR were applied very often.
It was not a
crucial ascent, as Wojciech said A Japanese-Polish
Picnic, but we felt happy and fully satisfied with
the outcome. After completing the climb of Biacherahi
Tower, Wojciech and I considered attempting the North
face of Latok I, but since the conditions had
not improved, we left BC to return home. (Editors
note: The height of Biacherahi Central Tower is
assumed to be close to 6000m. A Japanese specialist on
Karakoram & Hindukush estimates that the altitude
would be 5800-5900m).
For this article we
are thankful to Mr. Tamotsu Nakamura of Japan Alpine
Club. Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS Department of
Tourist Services License #333
http://www.jasminetours.com
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