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Marty
Schmidt Last Updated 6/2002
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- Born 10 June
1960 in Lodi California, USA. Currently single.
- Son: Denali
born 27 April 1988 in Australia.
- Daughter:
Sequoia born 1 January 1991
- Citizenship:
USA and New Zealand
- Self employed:
Owner of Marty Schmidt International Guiding (MSIG)
since 1976 (age 16). Climber, Mountaineering/Ski
Guide and Teacher.
- Accomplished
organizer for logistics, people and gear of
expeditions.
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- Interested in all
racquet sports, triathlons, marathon running, fly
fishing.
- Member of Ultimate
Disk teams since 1976 in California, New Mexico,
Alaska, New Zealand and Australia.
- Interests in
Anthroposophy; pottery; poetry; Zen, Toaist and
Lakota ways of life.
- Home bases in New
Zealand, California, Colorado.
- US Air Force Air
Medal 1984, for rescuing 9 people from a burning
hotel fire in the Philippines.
Some of his many
climbs...
- Guided 71 year old
client to the summit of Denali in 1988
- Climbed a new
route on the northeast face of Everest, from the
Tibetan side, in 1994.
- Selected as a
member of an International climbing team to climb K2
in 1992.
- Rescued members of
other teams while on Denali, Alaska, USA; Aconcagua,
Argentina; Mt. Everest, Tibet.
- K2 expedition in
2000 with International team to within meters of the
top of K2.
- First American to
summit the southwest face on Kangchenjunga.
- Second New
Zealander to have ever summitted Kangchenjunga (the
first Kiwi was Norman Hardie in 1955).
- World speed climb
on Cho Oyu on 28 September 2001 in 11 hours, 15
minutes from ABC to summit.
Marty
on Kangchenjunga below...
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