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Soloist, All-Women, and Other Cutting-Edge Climbs Receive Grants from the The American Alpine Club


2003 Lyman Spitzer Grant Winners Announced

(GOLDEN, COLO.) – A solo first ascent in Greenland and an all-woman team’s attempt of an unclimbed Indian peak are a few of the cutting-edge climbs supported by this year’s American Alpine Club (AAC) Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants.

Eighteen expeditions applied to the AAC for support, only seven of which received cash grants totaling $18,000. The grants are drawn from an endowment made possible by support from AAC members, including a generous bequest from Mr. Lyman Spitzer. Additionally, MSR, Therm-a-rest, and Platypus hydration systems provide another $10,000 worth of gear for the expeditions.

 “The applications this year were impressive,” said grant committee Chair and recently elected AAC President Mark Richey. “I wish we could support them all, but we must focus on those expeditions with new, unique, cutting-edge objectives in mind. The seven winning teams truly reflect that kind of ambition and embody the spirit of this grants program.”

Spitzer grants promote state-of-the-art, cutting-edge climbing through financial support of small, lightweight teams of climbers attempting bold first ascents or difficult repeats of the most challenging routes in the world's great mountain ranges. A total of $18,000 was awarded to these team leaders:

·         Doug Chabot (Bozeman, Mont.) – With Conrad Anker and Bruce Miller, Chabot will attempt an alpine style ascent on the seldom-attempted right wall of the Shark's Fin in the Gangotri Region of India.

·         Brian Clarke (Boulder, Colo.) – The two-man team of Clarke and Chris Bassett will try a first ascent, in alpine style, of an unclimbed 4,000-foot face on Alaska’s Mount Hunter.

·         Jon Copp (Boulder, Colo.) – After an alpine-style, speed ascent of the “Scottish Route” on Bhagirathi III, Copp and partner Dylan Taylor will attempt to enchain Bhagirathi IV and Bhagirathi II, in the Garhwal Himalaya of India.

·         Micah Dash (Boulder, Colo.) – Climbing solo, Dash will make a go of the first ascent of peak 1561 in the Greenland’s Tassermuit Fjord.

·         Jim Earl (Livingston, Mont.) – With Kelly Cordes, Earl will make an attempt on the unclimbed, 4,300-foot high Southeast Face of Jirishanca Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru.

·         Benjamin Gilmore (Seattle, Wash.) – Gilmore and partner Kevin Mahoney will try to establish a new route on Thalay Sagar in the Indian Himalayas.

·         Elizabeth Wirtz (Boulder, Colo.) – The two-woman team of Wirtz and Lizzy Scully will attempt to put up a route on an unclimbed peak in the India’s Miyar Valley.

Founded in 1902, The American Alpine Club is a national nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting climbing knowledge, conserving mountain environments, and serving the American climbing community. The AAC currently has nearly 7,000 members throughout the U.S. and across the globe.

 





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