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George Dijmarescu Everest 2003


 

 George Dijmarescu: Everest 2003

American George Dijmarescu has Summited Everest four times from the North, once without oxygen. If he summits again this year it will be 5 consecutive times via the North route...

Dear EverestNews.com readers, this is my first report, my laptop was sabotaged and now unable to boot. This year I am part of the fist Romanian expedition to Mt. Everest, for those of you don't know, I was born and lived in Romania for the first 25 years of my life. I was selected to help out based on my previous five Everest expedition and on my four consecutive summits since my first summit in1999. It is impossible not to have difficulties in this kind of endeavor, now with the celebration of the 50th anniversary, many countries, mountaineering clubs, commercial expeditions, etc are poised here to top what Tenzing and Hillary did 50years ago. Lots of high tech tents, gear, and not so tech climbers, trekkers, wonderers. The frustration with mountains is always expected, for me the relation with Sagarmatha so far is good, it is something rather comic what frustrates me and my colleagues here; we have to keep our mouths shut and our fingers clear of any laptop, information about ourselves to the world is prohibited by lucrative contracts between our leader David Neacsu and a multi million dollar bankrupt TV station from Romania (Pro TV), this station was suppose to broadcast live images about our expedition at least from BC. Unable to get proper permits from the Chinese Gov. they were left with almost a week in the border town of Kodari then return to Kathmandu where they try to patch things over from there. Now we send video tapes from ABC or higher by yak herders, trekkers, climbers, etc towards Katmandu where after perhaps more than a week our Pro TV will tell a story which in fact is a week old story, and we have to shut up.

Now with the pulmonary virus outbreak in China, and other parts of Asia the Chinese Gov is thinking of closing the border, as far as I am concern so be it, I suspect some sort of medical quarantine when entering Nepal or by entering the United States. The people in Romania are starving for information about their nationals ! And yet they learn history not present, the families are lured by daily speeches from a leader who spend all his time in BC and never had the privilege to see ABC, not to say that he didn't try it twice. At this moment our members are properly acclimatized, we went at least 3 times to camp one and some went even higher. The following are present here at ABC (6400m) Lucian Bogdan, Sorin Smilovici, Fane, Mihai Sima, Lakpa Sherpa, Doni Sherpa, and myself George Dijmarescu, just went to BC for better food and I hope for short time Marius Gane and Coco Galescu. All these climbers are reported in good conditions and are ready for summit. I am sure their families will be glad to hear they are the ones who will represent their country, after all this is a Government sponsored expedition.

I will like to say a few words about our heart of the expedition, Sherpa, and I will begin with their leader (sirdar)- Nima Gombu Sherpa, for many he need no introduction, eight time Everest summiter and with 16 expeditions to Everest, he is a man I want to be like. Gombu and I spent almost five months together in the US last year and I learn so much from him; here he hauled 25kg to camp one with ease without any management. The world will hear about this climber for many years to come. Second in command and with more experience on this part of the mountain, Dawa Nuru of Thame, I met Dawa in 1998 and he is my favorite sherpa and human being, about him and because is so much to say including how he just rescued our tent full with equipment from a 20m crevasse and the video clip accompany it in the next report. Also an emotional report of how our climber Fane jumped paragliding for almost 30 minutes from the North Col, yes he landed safe near ABC, to mention that the French jump from the summit in 2001 lasted only 11 min. I conclude by encouraging at least these climbers families to write them at this address giving them your moral support, we all needed. Until next time- G. Dijmarescu and the team on the East Rongbuk Glacier of Everest at 6400m

To e-mail George Dijmarescu

 





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