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George Dijmarescu Everest 2003


 

 George Dijmarescu: Everest 2003

American George Dijmarescu has Summited Everest four times from the North, once without oxygen. If he summits again this year it will be 5 consecutive times via the North route...

"War On Everest"

Report 4: Dear EverestNews.com readers and especially to those in Romania. There are printed articles in Romanian media of bold nosey titles such is ''war in Everest for power''. First I like to say and anyone can ask these climbers for verification at this e-mail address, like some already did, friends of Mihai Sima, Lucian Bogdan and Fane Tulpan, so here is no war among ourselves or with others, yes there was an incident between me and Coco but for _____ sake Coco has no broken ribs or any injury, contrary he is ready to go for summit like every one else. Again those who like to see this expedition fail continue to fabricate, exaggerate invent stories. They also accuse me of fighting for power with David Neacsu.

Because of such accusations I must make record straight. I will begin with David I must say that in terms of ''organizing'' he is the best man Romania could send here. In terms of climbing at high altitude David could not be come close to me, my record speak for itself and there was never an understanding between me and David that he will advise, order, boss me in decisions above Base Camp. I will add that I will never want David's job, I told him that he must be crazy to take such job. There is truth that David sent or wanted to send orders to us therefore to me as well, suggestion which I rebuffed in a text phone message, I remember he try to or fell to some Sherpa suggestion to make two groups for summit, a tactical move rejected by me for several reasons but most important for lack of Sherpa (we lost two Sherpa to illness and a third one with severe laryngitis), second I felt reluctant to leave some of our climbers exposed and without my supervision, then who will decide who will go in the first group and who will try his luck in the second group. I felt David is not in position to make such decision since he never reached ABC, had less experience than all these climbers and the categorical rejection of any of David's suggestion and implication in decision making. This should not be interpreted as a rebellion or fight for power, simply we those who spent almost a month here, climb up, know better. This ought to be respected or tragedy will follow. As a climber with the most experience in my group, I feel the burden of responsibility for my fellow climbers and those in Romanian media should remember that none of these climbers ever reached 8000m, the place called ''The death zone'', a place where your body is dying every second, above 8000m is getting even harder, danger of loosing life amplifies greatly, and never forget, Everest is the only 9000m mountain in the world. Those at ABC are more united than ever, we are ready, we communicate and today reached a consensus to postponed our summit bid by a day. I sincerely believe that those rumors and exaggeration are the product of the Pro Tv--David Neacsu censorship of these climbers who still cannot have a voice to the world, their country and their national or local media. I suggest this detrimental fact to David but he seem to be more interested to the contracts made between him and Pro Tv, now these brave climbers are subject to second, third, or lesser quality media scrutiny and yet no voice or opportunity to their side of the story. As I said before and I want the history to be my judge, not the special interest of today's Romania that this is Romania and all Romanians expedition, not PRO TV. I know in my heart that those who said; have these money and our country will be better of, our image will shine, had good honest intention and these guys came with the blessing of the country's president. What shocked me is how they can let history be written by PRO TV, these climbers jackets are full with ''sponsors logos' almost like formula 1 car drivers, what's next, stitching those sponsors logos to the ''Tricolor''. perhaps we have short memories up here but those who will follow us, the next generation will remember this as the first Romanian expedition on Mt Everest. The Romanian Gov was lured by Pro Tv that they will take the responsibility of documenting this special event in Romanian history, and I say to the last fellow Romanian to the far villages that this DID NOT HAPPEN, IS NOT HAPPENING AND WILL NOT HAPPEN. Pro tv promised live broadcasts about these climbers, they couldn't even enter Tibet, now they do what we al know some Romanians do best --in Nepal and expose us, the climbers and all of you 22.5 million Romanians to shame and embarrassment, so much for Romanian's image. Nobody from the Romanian Gov is asking the simple question, from where we receive those images and if we have proper permission for it.

Dear fellow Romanians, I live in the United States for the last 18 years, I never forgot Romania and I love it more than you think or know, however I learn positive things in the American society, Honesty, and now I am associated with a Pro Tv who is anything but honest, for this and for Romanian image, those in the Romanian Gov. should set their clocks for ringing at the earliest hour. As far as I am concern as the man with most experience on this expedition I put my reputation on line an I promised to deliver what I was selected to do- as many summiters as possible and absolutely no injuries of any kind. Based on that promise Romanians should judge me. We will succeed and succeed big. We will make you proud of us and will not regret the trust you put in us. We regret we have no professionals from TV stations to properly record the daily events of this expedition, instead we non professionals, climbers, video amateurs send you tapes the best we can towards Kathmandu, Nepali capital, where the professionals from Pro Tv receive them after 4-5-6-7 or more days and assemble them under the comfort of 30 o Celsius criticized me for wearing blue jeans. I don't know why Pro Tv will object Dijmarescu for wearing jeans but for Romanians I will explain that this is a habit for me well before Pro Tv was bankrupted, second a pair of jeans cost in the US $35 and a pair of GoreTex pants cost over$100, thirdly there is no need to wear expensive gear and expose it to crampons puncture up to Camp one, I know this cause I climbed to camp one almost 30 times it worked for me I didn't preach it to my fellow climbers, there was no need for a person with no knowledge of high altitude climbing to attack me the most experience in the group. If he had the job of editing the tapes he could easily cut the images with the poison ''western influence'' and nobody will ever knew about it, but Mr. Pasare had a mission or how my friend Sorin said, he want to bother himself. Is any hard feelings for America or American citizens in the Pro Tv as a corporation. Dear Romanians judge this, I am the only climber in this expedition who was never contacted or interview by the Pro Tv, the only authority to interview climbers up here when National Geographic Magazine, the first edition in Romanian language said, and please read it yourselves, ''ONE OF THE BEST CLIMBERS ALIVE'', of course I will never compare the two, there is so much difference, but I felt side lined by a vendetta when I give my heart out for this expedition to succeed, I was born in Romania and by the new constitution no one can take it from me and certainly not Pro Tv. I know there is involvement from the leader, if he can focus his energy in positive way we all can benefit. We were told we cannot communicate with anybody but his beloved Pro Tv, but in the same time I heard him giving personal interviews to various newspapers in Romania, so there is separate rules for the king of the ''valley'' cause we are on the hill. As long as David is siding with the incompetent Pro Tv who cheated us and Romania there will be fractions up here and after these guy will return to Romania, they will tell you stories, very different from those reported by the designated Pro Tv and David. I visit almost daily a Swiss expedition for weather forecast and I give! you my word of honor that this exp.( and is not a national exp) has 2(two) camera man from a serious Swiss Tv station who follow the climbers, sherpa, meetings, etc they work at least 12 hr a day like a man in a factory with professional 3 CCD camera, gearing climbers with microphones capturing voices more than 200m away and yes they have no permission to broadcast, just filming, I am not a man who like to look how green is the neighbor grass, but our Pro Tv people lay comfortable in a hotel in Kathmandu and send you week old stories. They pray on Romanian lack of Himalayan experience, but I tell you some others could have done it far better. I bet you uneducated viewers that they assemble clips where sponsors logos are visible and charge them big bucks instead of showing images I shot of Sorin Smilovici coming down tired from North Col But generous enough to smile with his perfect teeth and commenting on the descent, yes of course I kept the camera above the sponsors logos, Sorin was what interested me and will interest history. I hope the Gov. will see as all the video tapes and hire an impartial, professional TV or editing company who will assemble these images and make a video who will first please Romanians and lastly the sponsors. Demand quality.

Gheorghe Dijmarescu, ABC Everest, Tibet side

Note: When a climber sent in a dispatch like this, we normally delay. George sent it again... EverestNews.com will publish the "other side" if requested also.

To e-mail George Dijmarescu

 





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