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George Dijmarescu Everest 2003


 

 George Dijmarescu: Everest 2003

American George Dijmarescu has Summited Everest four times from the North, once without oxygen. If he summits again this year it will be 5 consecutive times via the North route...

"Summit Day"

Report 5: Dear EverestNews.com readers, tomorrow May19th the Romanian expedition will start its summit bid with the plan for summiting on May 22. We will carry to camp one tomorrow and will have a night rest there, an early morning wake up will help us get to camp two before 3 PM, we will pose there again overnight and again in the next day will carry on to the last camp at 8300m, hopefully before 5 PM where we will have to do all we can to rest a few hours and before the middle of night with head lamps ready and new batteries fasten will start toward the summit. All going well we will reach the NE Ridge at between 4-5AM , with the sun heating our left side and spirits high we will proceed towards the first step. Attention should be paid to the point of where we will reach the ridge because that's the point we will have to leave the ridge toward the wall, in case of bad weather with low visibility is paramount to remember this point, in fact is the only place one can be lost, continuing down on the ridge will spell disaster, with most of the energy exhausted is almost impossible to climb up the ridge, it is known that several climbers made that mistake and some paid with their lives. The first step is not far ahead and can be reached in 20 min or more, this obstacle represents a low technical obstacle at low elevation but there, we will use ascender for saving time and security, it can be toppled in10 minutes without the inconvenience of traffic. Shortly after follow the unmistakable Mushroom Rock, an almost 6ft rock shaped in the form of mushroom. This is a place used for a rest, and changing the Oxygen bottle, some only for rest depend on the Oxygen flow used. After sipping a bit of tea or coffee we will start what is in my opinion the most part of the route, the distance between first and second step, this part is mostly flat and sometime descending, however the rock is mostly loose and cannot be trusted, fixed ropes will help tremendously for security and speed. In my previous climbs this was the part I never rush it, but was the place where a Belgian climber fell to his death, I also observed two other corpses 200 yards bellow probably the result of the same fate. In my 1999 ascent I counted 12 corpses in my way towards the summit. Some climbers stopped and contemplate others like myself kept on going minding their own business, some take unethical photos and video others superstitious think that those photographs will bring bad luck. The second step can be reached in less than 30 min but in a normal pace 45min. This obstacle described and photographed so many times need no description, it never took me more than 30min from its bottom to the top but it can pose a real challenge if traffic is heavy. From the top of the second step we can see the third and last one, the terrain is easy with light incline and wide, a fine place to change Oxygen, rest and to pass slower climbers. The third step can be reached in 15 min. This obstacle can be toped in 10-15 min also depending on the traffic. After this a little scrambling on yellow rocks left and right hand descending 15-20 ft with splendid view of Makalu on left hand side, hopefully our Kanshung face didn't start boiling already so we can admire and start make plans for this difficult side of Everest. We will go up for another 10-15min and we will reach the bottom of what's called ''The snow pyramid'', we will follow on left hand side for 15-20min then will traverse the pyramid to right and will end up un the rocks, from here we will not be visible anymore with naked eye, another 15-20min and we will reach an incline which will climb a bit turning left, 10 min and we will reach a snow saddle, turn right up for 5min and we will follow the ridge to a relatively flat place, from here we can see the summit 15-20 minutes away depend on the speed of the climber. It is ideal to return to camp 3 as early as possible, those in better shape can descend to lower camps at 7800m or to North Col, for those who wonder about Sherpa, they can descend all the way to ABC but we will keep our heart of the expedition with us wherever for the security of the members. Regardless we will be in ABC not later than May 24. Our jeeps will be ready for us at base camp on May 26 and we will be in Kathmandu on 27th. If all goes well.

The following members are still in the race for the summit and feel strong and ready; Mihai Sima, Coco Galescu, Fane Tulpan, Lucian Bogdan, Marius Gane, Dr. Sebastian Koga, Sorin Smilovici, Gheorghe Dijmarescu, Lakpa Sherpa, Doni Sherpa, Nima Gombu Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa, Nima Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa, Sherep Sherpa, Chewang Dorje (the son of legendary Ang Rita), Motilan Gurung, Mingma Gelu Sherpa. The rest of our members are not here for various reasons, we lost Mingma Sherpa due to serious ulcer illness. We sure missed him since he was in our summit team, we also hope and pray for his speedy recovery and hope his pregnant wife will not have a serious financial loss.

Our team will carry a sat phone and will call family, friends, sponsors and the world with our success. Please pray for all of us, we need it. Once again here in ABC will let you know how it went. Best wishes for my fellow people in Connecticut and to those in Romania, for the world followers of EverestNews.com, we thank you so much.

To my baby Sunny, dear, I love you, you mother love you, we think of you every minute and will have you in our hearts to the summit, back here and can't wait to see you home.

George Dijmarescu, at ABC Tibet side of Everest

To e-mail George Dijmarescu

 





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