Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact
   E-mail (Free)
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Forum
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews
  
Mailing List

   News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks
   Visitor Agreement
 

 


  


George Dijmarescu Everest 2003


 

 George Dijmarescu: Everest 2003

American George Dijmarescu has Summited Everest four times from the North, once without oxygen. If he summits again this year it will be 5 consecutive times via the North route...

"Chance"

Report 6: Dear EverestNews.com readers, if you count me out is because you don't know my personality. Perhaps only my father anticipated it right and this because we are the same blood when he told my brother Claudio that, "he is not going to give up just because he had some equipment problems". And please let me explain the truth despite what had has spread online about me. I returned from my way to summit on May 22 from just bellow first step, I was climbing behind Lakpa and her brother Mingma Gelu Sherpa, my decision to return was a hard one, I will have to let Lakpa [his wife] to climb alone and this because my body was unable to generate heat, I was cold and the wind over 70 miles/hr adding to the wind chill factor, I cannot guest a mate what the temperature was but I can tell you that I was very cold and despite my desperate efforts to stay warm, I wasn't able to succeed, I removed my Oxygen mask, gasping for air, the gas I was suppose to receive wasn't enough, I express my feelings to Lakpa but she urged me to go on, I kept on going another half hour then again I told her I can't get warm, she again said is not so cold, I kept on going but this time Sunny [his daughter] came to me so vivid and I felt she is more important than any and all mountains in the world regardless of height or beauty. I turned to Lakpa and told her that this is my final decision, since my head lamp batteries went out inexplicably just like my wrist watch, I asked her if I can use hers on way down since her brother had one for both, she was generous enough and I started down the ridge, still dark but with Sun on curvature perhaps another hour to make its appearance. On my way down I met climbers going up, once 50 out of time, I needed to wait once half hour so I can descend a pitch 30 ft high. I think it took me 1.5hrs to reach last camp, I crawled into my tent and begin the sorrow, removed my mask which I just observed is way to heavy, the rubber bladder which is design to receive Oxygen was 3/4 full of big chunks of ice and the rubber tube which injects Oxygen deep down the bladder was solid like a stick, I knew is flexible and I bent it, making a noise just like you break a wood stick, immediately I look at my Oxygen regulator and to my shock it indicate 200. When I took it new was just a hair over 200. Now everything started to make sense. The Russian mask has a glass tube with a tiny piston attached to a sensible spring on the rubber tube from the regulator to mask which if is Oxygen pressure will move the piston more or less according to the pressure flow administered. So I look at the tiny piston every half hour and every time it showed Oxygen flow, but my mask rubber bladder was almost full with ice and also the tiny rubber tube which injected the Oxygen down the bladder was solid as a stick, then the pressure was indicated in the glass tube but the Oxygen never reached my starving lungs. Although I don't want to get into any conclusion just yet, my education and mechanical abilities tell me it can be only two things;; First it was a brand new mask, so is possible that the valves are defective and allow me to push the steamy breath into the bladder and little by little freezes and second, which I believe is more of the problem the Oxygen in my Poisk bottle wasn't dry, perhaps filled somewhere in the humidity of Kathmandu, but many will argue that Asian Trekking is a serious company and never do such things, well, I know well Asian Trekking and trust it with my life but most of the people don't even know how much a bottle of Oxygen can be sold here, higher camp, higher price, even $1000 a piece, so opportunity for some sherpa to make a fortune. With a salary of about 90000 Nepali Rupia or $1300 US is easy the temptation. Asian have catalogue their bottles with serial numbers and ours were filled in 2003 but it appear on our piles bottles filled in 2002, how can I explain this, simple. I like to put an end to this game and play with human life, yes Asian Trekking should crack down on this practice. Expeditions from previous year or seasons abandoned their stashes of Oxygen at high camps and those bottles are exposed to the elements of Everest for up to a year, according to Poisk this Oxygen should not be used, sherpa with years of experience know this and rush up to collect the prize, our sherpa found this season 25 bottles. Since I don't have any proof of misconduct from our sherpa, I do know that they don't bring down this old Oxygen, instead keep it there as the new expedition bottles and save the heavy work of transporting the new bottles in high camps, therefore shooting to birds with one cheap shot. Last year I reported that I almost lost my summit due to a bottle filled with air instead of Oxygen, if this year I was again the victim of a ''fixed bottle'' it must be believed that this practice is wide spread here in Everest. Commercial expedition do paint their bottles in various colors, apply personal sponsors stickers but vast majority use markers to write which expedition belong to, this is nothing. In conclusion I will keep this ''faulty mask'' and I will send it to an independent analysis in the US. New and new ways appear here with the precious gas, for instance, a 69 years old man from Russia was climbing on liquid Oxygen, for the chemists ''guess how''.

With all of our camps dismantled I must begin a new alpine style expedition, I must give myself another chance. Tomorrow May 27 I will ascend to camp one, then proceed forward with hope of summiting on May30th. I have no idea of weather forecast but with my visa expiring on June 2nd this is my last chance, I will pray (like always) for good weather this time. When this is over and I will get my hands on a larger computer I will report; which to many will be a shock what had happened with our expedition and why we didn't have better success. It shocked me cause I was the biggest supporter of these people. Stay tuned. George Dijmarescu, ABC Everest

 





  Altitude pre-
  
pre-acclimatization
  
Backcountry Gear
  
Backpacks
  
Bags& Luggage
  
Bindings
  
Boot & Fabric Care
  
Cameras

  
Camp Furniture
  
Camping Accessories
  
Car Racks
  
Carabiners
  
Cards
  
Child Carriers
  
Climbing Bags
  
Compasses
  
Cooking Supplies
  
Cycling Components
  
Cycling Repair
  
Dry Bags
  
Dry Boxes
  
Electronics
  
First Aid
  
Fishing Accessories
  
Fleece
  
Float Tubes
  
Fly Boxes
  
Fly Line
  
Fly Rods
  
Fly Tying
  
Fly Vests & Packs
  
Food
  
Footwear
  
Gaiters
  
Gifts & Games
  
Gloves & Mittens
  
Goggles
  
Harnesses
  
Hats
  
Helmets
  
Hydration Packs
  
Indoor Climbing Gear
  
Infant Apparel
  
Jackets
  
Kayaks
  
Kid's Cycling Gear
  
Kid's Paddling Gear
  
Knives & Tools
  
Leaders & Tippets
  
Lifejackets/ PFDs
  
Lights
  
Locks
  
Long Underwear
  
Maps
  
Messenger & Bike
  
Mountaineering Gear
  
Neckwear
  
Neoprene
  
Nets
  
Paddles & Oars
  
Paddlewear
  
Pants
  
Pet Gear
  
Poles
  
Pontoons
  
Prints & Posters
  
Rafts
  
Reels & Spools
  
Rescue Gear
  
Rock Climbing Gear
  
Rod & Reel Kits
  
Rod Tubes & Bags
  
Ropes
  
Shell Outerwear
  
Shirts
  
Shorts
  
Showers & Toilets
  
Skates & Scooters
  
Ski & Board Repair
  
Skirts & Dresses
  
Skis
  
Sleds and Tubes
  
Sleeping Bags
  
Snowboards
  
Snowshoes
  
Socks
  
Sprayskirts
  
Stoves
  
Strollers
  
Sunglasses
  
Sunscreen
  
Sweaters
  
Swimming
  
Tents
  
Travel Accessories

  
Underwear
  
Vests
  
Videos
  
Waders
  
Watches & Clocks
  
Water Bottles
  
Water Filtration
 


Send email to everestnews2004@adelphia.net   •   Copyright© 1998-2003 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it.