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The North Face of Nuptse: Willie and Damian Benegas


 Current Nepal Date/Time

Follow Along: Dispatch One: During the 3 times Willie summited Everest, he had to walk from base camp to Camp 2 several times--- every time he arrived at Camp 1 he keep looking to the north face of Nuptse. Wishing he was there hanging on the buttress. We worked very hard to be a climber and a full time guide and more for us that we are climbers by heart. Since we started climbing almost 17 years ago we almost usually spent all our energy exploring, hanging or breathing some very cool and oxygen deprived air up some big peak somewhere in the world. Our adventures have taken us to almost every continent. Check here for the full dispatch.

wil3g.jpg (12288 bytes) Damien and Guillermo (Willie) Benegas, the "Patagonian Brothers," were both born and raised in Argentina and are among the elite of world-class mountain guides. Their list of accomplishments is extraordinary, from first ascents in Patagonia, where they developed their passion for mountains early in life, to Baffin Island, to Everest. The Patagonian Brothers have guided for more than 15 years across the globe. Each have 25-30 ascents of Aconcagua, making them perhaps the most qualified guides on the mountain. Both are members of the North Face Athlete Team

Willie Benegas © David Keaton

 

This spring they head to the land of the Himalayas! To attempt the north face of Nuptse--- "A direct start and finish": to the north spur on the north face.

Willie's Brief Resume below courtesy of The North Face

FILMS:

2001 OLN "Outlaws of the Aconcagua Trail"
1991 "Swimming with whales" discovery channel

HIGHLIGHTS:

Nameless Tower "Book of Shadows" VII 5.10+ A4 WI4, 1995
Mt Kenya all massif towers in 16 hrs, 2002
Mt Cuerno 17.600ft South Face First Ascent 5.7 WI 3 4640ft in 4.36hrs R/ trip solo, 2000
Fitzroy Super Canaleta VI 5.10b A1 WI 3,1987
Atensoraju 19.328ft. new route North ridge/face "The Pandora Box of Artensoraju:" 5.9 WI 3, 1998
Oshapalca new route South face "My Message" 5.7 WI 4/5 2.400ft., 2000
Aconcagua World record ascent/descent 54miles 13500ft elevation gain, 2000
First Ascent Argentina Andes "Welcome to a Dream" V 5.11 A4+.,1999
Patagonia Exploration, first ascent "Swept by the Wind" 5.13a, 1,000ft.
Patagonia 62.5miles endurance run first place 9.35hrs., 1986
The Nose VI 5.11 A1 16 ascents, ten one day ascents.
South Seas (VI 5.10 A5)
Sea of Dreams (VI 5.10 A5)
Regular Route (VI 5.10 A1) twenty times. Fastest time was 3:30
20/20 Classics Climb's in twenty days of the 50 Classic's Climbs of North America Book. Ascended 60,080ft, traveled 137 miles on foot, 2hrs in canoe, and climbed 241 pitches. 1993

ABOUT WILLIE: Born and raised in the wild heart of Patagonia, Willie Benegas has pursued a long apprenticeship in the mountains. Willie has pushed his craft on the big walls of Yosemite, the airy summits of South America, and the loftiest peaks of the Himalayas. Willie completed his first major ascent in the winter of 1987 with a route up Patagonia's West Face of Pitriquitron (VI, 5.9 A3 W2/3), which has still not been repeated. At age 20, he climbed Aconcagua's impressive South Face, as well as Fitzroy. In the following years, Willie "ticked off" the first ascent of the North Face of Pakistan's Nameless Tower "Book of Shadows" (VII, 5.10+ A4 W14), made record speed ascents in Yosemite Valley, and attempted major new routes on the legendary North Faces of Thalay Sagar and Jannu. In 2001, he set the world record speed ascent/descent of the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere, Aconcagua (22,831 ft.), summited Everest for a second time, and ran the legendary Leadville Ultra 100-mile Race. In the spring of 2002, Willie reached the Top of the World yet a third time. However, simply overcoming technical routes and conquering summits around the world is not enough for this 34-year-old climber. He gathers equal satisfaction by introducing others to the world of mountain experiences and exploration.

Willie has many plans for the future, but he often gets the same question, why do you climb? To this he simply says, "A mountain adventure will carry over into the many facets of life, teaching yourself about yourself, your co-existence with nature, and the respect for people's cultures."

 





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