The North Face of Nuptse: Willie and Damian Benegas

Dispatch Index

Dispatch One: During the 3 times Willie summited Everest, he had to walk from base camp to Camp 2 several times--- every time he arrived at Camp 1 he keep looking to the north face of Nuptse. Wishing he was there hanging on the buttress. We worked very hard to be a climber and a full time guide and more for us that we are climbers by heart. Since we started climbing almost 17 years ago we almost usually spent all our energy exploring, hanging or breathing some very cool and oxygen deprived air up some big peak somewhere in the world. Our adventures have taken us to almost every continent. Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch Two: Where to start? Once departed from US and having almost everything done including the last minute package of gear deliver on the last day before we where due to depart. Damian arrived in to KTM March 25 and started the whole organization of gear and paper work to have the permit, dealing with the L.O.. Every year they what more money! Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch Three: Damian brings things up to date...... April 7th: We arrived at BC on the 7th, and slowly, everything is taking shape.  Each of us are trying to create a home out of our tents.  We have turned the 2 meter dome tent into our living/ dining room, complete with a shelf where we keep all of the communication and entertainment equipment. Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch Four: April 21, 2003 Everest Base Camp, It is sometime late morning, and it is very cold outside -ready to snow at any minute.  Because of this reason, I am sitting in the tent, writing this update, instead of going out to boulder.  We have the most amazing bouldering circuit here.  The site is at 5300m, and some of the problems are in the V3,4 range.  Maybe at sea level, this would not be a major problem, but trust me!  It is hard to pull more than one move with not only the lack of air, but also the amount of clothing you have to wear! Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch Five: Everest City, Population 800. Yes, I think that we should have this on a sign at the beginning of Base Camp. This year marks the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Everest, and there are so many people here, Base Camp is like its own small city. Damian and I have been resting here at BC for the past few days, and so I have had lots of time to observe life as it goes on here. Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch Six: Is it possible to SOLO (a true solo) of the Snake?? Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch 7: The weather report tells us that there is a window of good weather coming, that will start on May 8th.  Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch 8: Base Camp: Another day at BC, trying to get by.  The bad weather is still hunting us and who knows how much longer it will last. As for now, the weather reports indicate it will be with us for another few days. So what to do? Go down to Pumori BC and find the best bouldering problems of course!  Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch 9: Base Camp: Dispatch 9 Everest Camp 2: 14 Days.  That is the total number of days we have up until today been in BC.  I woke up this morning with the desperate feeling of needing to calm down the ants in my pants. Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch 10: So far, this has been our greatest day yet in the office.  Although the sun hit camp at 7:30 am, we were feeling a little lazy, and didn't motivate until 8:45 am. After taking a look at the weather, we decided it would be a perfect day to start climbing our route.  Everyone is calling it the Crystal Snake. Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch 11: Here's a bit of a report from Willie. I have been talking with him on the radio. They are in Camp 2 right now after getting up past the crux of the climbing on "the Crystal Snake". Early this morning I got a call from Willie saying they had a cold bivi out last night hanging in slings after finishing most of the difficult climbing on the initial steep 10 pitch (or more section). Around 2 am this morning Willie and Damian tried to brew up and discovered their stove had broken! Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch 12: The following 2 members of "American 2003 Nuptse Expedition" team have been successful to climb the summit of 7855m high Mt. Nuptse on 23 May 2003 at 13:00 Hrs.... Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch 13: Willie has had a rough several days. After their summit, they tried to help Karma Gylzen Sherpa (28 yrs), Climbing Sherpa from Sotang - 6, Solukhumbu who died on 24 May 2003... Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch 14: Yes, we summited a new route on Nuptse’s main summit, by what we believe to be the first truly alpine ascent... Check here for the full dispatch.