Skorek, Janusz Golab and Stanislaw Piecuch just came back from Kunyang Chhish
East Expedition. They climbed 6700m of Kunyang Chhish East south face in
alpine style in 3 days. This is their trip report...
31 of July we started
first acclimatization climb on 6500 meters high Ice Cake Peak. We spent the night
at 6200 meters. The next day we climbed 6300 and came back to the base camp. We found very
hot weather, even on 6300 attitude we wore only polar T-shirts. The snow was very
heavy and the climb was very hard.
On August 5th, we made
acclimatization attempt and we reached the summit of Ice Cake and spent the
night there. This time climbing was easier and faster.
on the day we
decided to start climbing the weather started changing for the worse. It was very bad up
to 15 of August - 10 rainy and snowy days. On the 15th of August we
found the weather better and decided to make a “last chance attempt”. We started
late afternoon because of avalanche danger and temperatures which preclude
climbing on lower ice part of the wall during the day. We were climbing from 5
pm (15 august) to 4 am (16 august). We climbed over 1000 meters ice field (up
to 70O steep). We did not use any belay for faster climbing. We
forge the snow ledge at 4 am and make 1,5 hour long bivouac. At 5.30 am we
started climbing again. We had to force mixed steep section with hard pitch
(M7) but it was completely without belay on very thin ice - only a few
“deadly” belay points. We were at an attitude of about 6000 and we couldn’t climb
because of the sun. The snow was too heavy to make even three or four steps. We
had to wait up to 5 pm again and again climbing by night. This time climbing
was harder and we had to belay. The climbing become slower. We made next
bivouac on 6300. Next day we started climbing early morning and reach attitude
6700 by afternoon. It was still to warm. On 6700 me made third bivouac. Next
morning the weather started to change for the worse again. We decided to go down.