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Polish Kunyang Chhish east expedition 2003


       Grzegorz Skorek, Janusz Golab and Stanislaw Piecuch just came back from Kunyang Chhish East Expedition. They climbed 6700m of Kunyang Chhish East south face in alpine style in 3 days. This is their trip report...

     31 of July we started our first acclimatization climb on 6500 meters high Ice Cake Peak. We spent the night at 6200 meters. The next day we climbed 6300 and came back to the base camp. We found very hot weather, even on 6300 attitude we wore only polar T-shirts. The snow was very heavy and the climb was very hard.

The Line!

Source: Grzegorz Skorek

          On August 5th, we made a second acclimatization attempt and we reached the summit of Ice Cake and spent the night there. This time climbing was easier and faster.

Stanislaw Piecuch

Source: Grzegorz Skorek

          Unfortunately on the day we decided to start climbing the weather started changing for the worse. It was very bad up to 15 of August - 10 rainy and snowy days. On the 15th of August we found the weather better and decided to make a “last chance attempt”. We started late afternoon because of avalanche danger and temperatures which preclude climbing on lower ice part of the wall during the day. We were climbing from 5 pm (15 august) to 4 am (16 august). We climbed over 1000 meters ice field (up to 70O steep). We did not use any belay for faster climbing. We forge the snow ledge at 4 am and make 1,5 hour long bivouac. At 5.30 am we started climbing again. We had to force mixed steep section with hard pitch (M7) but it was completely without belay on very thin ice - only a few “deadly” belay points. We were at an attitude of about 6000 and we couldn’t climb because of the sun. The snow was too heavy to make even three or four steps. We had to wait up to 5 pm again and again climbing by night. This time climbing was harder and we had to belay. The climbing become slower. We made next bivouac on 6300. Next day we started climbing early morning and reach attitude 6700 by afternoon. It was still to warm. On 6700 me made third bivouac. Next morning the weather started to change for the worse again. We decided to go down.







 

 

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