meaning little garden)
Spantik Peak 7027 meters In the
past few years this unknown peak became so much popular that now a days it
attract 5 to 10 expedition each year. Since its base camp is within easy
reach. Spantik lies in the Karakorum Range and its base camp can be reached in
four days INCLUDING one day for the jeep drive from Skardu. For about three
days we will trek on and beside Chogolungma glacier before we reach Spantik
peak base camp 4100 meters. Spantik lies in between Nagar Valley (also known
as Golden Peak) near Hunza and Arandu Valley in Baltistan. The normal South
East route to Spantik 7027 meters is from Chogolungma Glacier in Arandu Valley
of Baltistan also known as Little Tibet. Among 7000's meters high peaks
Spantik is the most beautiful and fascinating peak. Every year it's attract
dozens of adventure lovers from all over the World, from which 80% of them
successfully climb this beautiful mountain. As with many high mountains,
weather and snow conditions, and climbers personal fitness and acclimatization
will determine WHETHER the summit is reached. Although not technically
difficult, Spantik peak is a serious UNDERTAKING and requires extensive
previous alpine or expedition experience.
& 02 ARRIVAL RAWALPINDI / ISLAMABAD
Upon arrival met and transfer to your
hotel in Rawalpindi. After a short rest drive to Islamabad, Ministry of
Tourism to complete the necessary formalities and obtain climbing permit.
DAY 03 RAWALPINDI/SKARDU
Fly to Skardu, If unable to fly, same day
we will drive to Skardu 2300m, spending a night in Chilas.
DAY 04 SKARDU
Emergency day in case, flight does not
operate on day 03 this day will be use to transfer the members by road from
Chilas to Skardu. Total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is 22-24 hours.
DAY 05 SKARDU
Final arrangement for the expedition.
DAY 06 SKARDU -TO- ARANDU
Embark jeeps for a half day ride on a
winding jeep trail to Arandu - The last inhabitance on our way to the Base
:-The road to Arandu comes undergoing rapid erosion and gets closed quite
often. If unable to jeep, the group will disembark & walk to Arandu on the
same day or camp for overnight (subject to distance).
DAY 07 – 10 ARANDU -TO- BASE CAMP
Today we leave the last inhabited
village. For the remaining portion of our journey we rely on our porters who
carry our food and equipment’s and sustain our expedition. Overnight in tents
All meals served by camp staff.
DAY 11-30 CLIMBING
20 days climb will start
DAY 31 - 32 TREKKING BACK TO ARANDU VILLAGE
After an early breakfast leave the
Spantik Peak base camp and we will trek down to Arandu village in two days.
DAY 33 ARANDU -TO- SKARDU
Embark jeeps for a halp day ride on a winding jeep trail to Skardu. Upon
arrival transfer to your chosen hotel.
DAY 34 SKARDU - RAWALPINIDI
Early in the morning fly to Islamabad, if
unable to fly same day drive to Gilgit. Overnight hotel.
DAY 35 RAWALPINDI
Upon arrival transfer to your hotel in
Rawalpindi. Evening sightseeing.
If unable to fly on day 34. this day will
be use to transfer from Gilgit to Islamabad by road.
DAY 36 RAWALPINDI
De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism
Islamabad. Evening free
DAY 37 FLY BACK HOME
Transfer to airport for your onward
flight to abroad.
Aragon Adventure Spanish Spantik Peak Expedition 2003
Period July 26, 2003 to August 23, 2003.
Note: A must read for those who
are planning to climb Spantik in future.
1. Mr. Jordi
Adventlla Age 39
Edverdo Astudillo Age 39
Roberto de Poz Age 31
4. Mr. Evito
Valtes Age. 34
5. Mr. Leo
San Sebastian Age 46 Leader
Javier Ribas Age 32
7. Mr. Valen
Giro Age 40
8. Mrs. Elsa
Marti Age 37
Barbara Irauman Age 56
Mr. Asghar Ali Porik Liaison Officer (writer)
11. Mr. Karim
12. Mr. Ehsan
Karim (Micheal) Cook
13. Mr. Raza
Program we followed:
26/7/03 Report by the Liaison Officer to
Ministry of Tourism
27/7/03 Sunday holiday Group arrival in the
28/7/03 Briefing at Ministry of Tourism Office
early in the morning and same day departure for Chilas by road 12 hours drive,
We spent night at Shangrila hotel Chilas..
29/7/03 Drive from Chilas to Skardu another
12 hours drive leaved at 7pm, We spent night at Concordia motel, Skardu.
30/7/03 Second Briefing at two government
offices in Skardu..
31/7/03 Drive by jeep toward Arandu Village at
6am Arrive at Tissar in 3 hours, Road block by landslides, walked other side
of the block then boarded again in jeeps, stop for lunch at Choothrone hot
spring at rest house, need approximately two hours advance notice to make
lunch. Doko to Arandu jeep road is very bad and dangerous, one of our jeep
gone down few meters luckily no injuries but lost equipment. We reach in 4
hours from Doko to Arandu. We paid 1500 rupees from Skardu to Arandu for one
jeep and 2000 rupees for one wagon or jeep to Arandu. Overnight in tents.
01/08/03 First day of our trek from Arandu to
Manpikhoro and quite nice camping place with glacier water running close to
your tents. A long walk starts from Arandu village within half hours we were
on the snout of Chogolungma Glacier, for about one hours we find our way on
the glacier to the right side of the morain and walking mostly upward we reach
the camp site of Manpikhoro in an about 8 hours. The day was clear with lots
of sun, we hired about 65 porters.
02/08/03 Another long walk for about 7-8 hours
to Blocho and small camp site for about 10 tents maximum. Near by is the clean
drinking water. It was sunny until mid day and after noon its start getting
cloudy and it start raining in the mid might. We takes the right side of
morain up and down, last part before reaching the camp site we have to walk on
the glacier for about half an hours. Overnight in tents.
03/08/03 Early morning we leave the Blocho
camp, we are on the stony glacier zig zag for about 40 minutes before we reach
the central morain of Chogolungma glacier, We zig zag to avoid the open
caravas and going all the way upwards, before we reach at our camp site on the
Chogolungma glacier close to the SE ridge of Spantik Peak. There are three
camps site, one is on the South side called Japanese route. It is difficult to
reach this camp site plus you have to pay extra to the porters to bring you to
the Japanese base camp, secondly there is not too much place for a medium size
group. Second base camp is the traditional base camp on the Chogolungma
glacier where we were camping. Third camp is newly used by the expeditions is
little higher and about 150 meters from our camp site on the SE ridge of
Spantik Peak. It is very nice base camp and has good view around. Can
accommodate about 3 to 4 medium size groups. With lots of green ground near by
plus Snow and spring water. Recommended for base camping, I name it ABC, you
have to pay half stage more to porters for coming to this point, bargain
04/08/03 Today we have a rest day, it was a
rainy day but members start preparing for the coming days sort out high
altitude food and equipment.
05/08/03 Today Japanese Tochigi Expedition who
summit Spantik on 30/7/03 by putting three of their members of top out of four
are gone down, On our way up to the base camp we also met a Spanish Expedition
for Malmuting Peak, one of there members out of four climb Malmuting.
At 7am all the nine members of
our team and three Pakistan staff members Karim guide 29 years, Javed High
porter 27 years, Akram high porter 29 years leave for C1 5000m . In three to
four hours all reach at C1 and deposited high altitude food and equipment and
stay there for about 2 hours before returning back to BC at 4pm. Today was a
cloudy day with partial raining.
06/08/03 At 7am three Pakistani staff and
members again walk to the C1 taking supplies and equipment. Today our climbing
team split into two groups, one is trying to climb with the help of two high
altitude porters and assistance from guide and second team is trying to summit
by their own without high porters and assistance from guide while doing this
they took lots of heavy equipment and supplies themselves. The first team
came back to BC with the leader after staying for about 2 hours at C1, however
the second team was planning to stay there. I also walk to ABC at 4300m to see
friends there, today was a nice sunny day with some clouds. While you are
walking to ABC on the way you can see more then 10 different kind of flowers
with lots of grass and small mountain trees, birds, butterflies and much more.
From the ABC one can see Mulbuting 1, II Peaks, Polan La, Liala and Majnoon
Peaks, Akbar Peak but still one can not see spantik either from ABC or from
traditional BC. The view from ABC is supper. One can also camp here for
Mulbuting close by other peaks.
07/08/03 Today was a sunny day with some
clouds members stay at BC and done some washing and sorting out the equipment.
The second party was planning to go to the C2 and return to C1 to sleep.
Roberto was feel head-ach; Jordi came down to pick more supplies
08/08/03 Today was a nice partially cloudy and
partially sunny day. All remaining members and staff depart for C1, they leave
the BC about 11am, and they are planning to sleep at C1. The second party
tried to reach C2 with heavy load but could not reach due to deep snow
secondly they leave the C1 late snow was soft, which make it difficult for
them to walk and finally they came back to C1.
0908/03 Today was partially sunny and mostly
cloudy day. Akram HP came down to get more supplies. He told that every body
is at C1 and Pakistani staff is planning to establish C2 and will return to
C1 for the night.
10/08/03 Today was mostly cloudy weather with
rain and snow. Second group led by leader and Pakistani staff came back to
Base Camp due to bad weather. When the weather break during the day the
advance party gone to C2 to sleep. Ms. Barbara cancelled her plan to make any
other attempt due to physical problem.
11/08/03 Today all the day it was raining
second party led by leader and Pakistani staff leave Base Camp for C1 at about
11 am. While talking Leo said that if the weather will be better next morning
they will try to go to C2. Whereas there is no news from the advance party.
12/08/03 It was mostly sunny and partially
cloudy day. Leader and Pakistani staff reach the C2 and they want to stay
there for another day. Snow condition is not good, deep and soft snow. The
advance party could not reach to C3 and they were sleeping between C2 and C3.
Milio and Doctor came back to C2. Japanese who are in C3 for couple of days,
tonight they will try to make summit bid.
13/08/03 today all day weather was bad
raining. In the evening it was little clear. Japanese three members reach the
top and now they are coming down, our team those who are in C2 are discussing
the option to buy fixed rope from Japanese it is about 800m rope Japanese
fixed between C2 and C3. Finally I heard that the price Japanese were asking
50 dollars per person. But leader at the end refused to buy their rope due to
weather uncertainty and less days remaining in hand. Iranian party consisting
of nine members arrive at ABC
14/08/03 Today was cloudy partially rainy day
with sky clearing in the evening. Leo and his team fixed rope between C2 and
C3 about 200m. Javed and Rahim closed the C1 and brought down the equipment.
Karim also came back from C2 to base camp due to poor health. Today night was
clear with stars.
15/08/03 Today was mostly clear with lots of
sun shine. Leader and his team is still in C2, two members from advance party
are planning to recover the remain distance to C3. Two members came down to BC
from C2. Karim and Javed again thought of making summit bid and leave the BC
at 4:30 pm.
16/08/03 Today again was a very clear day with
lots of sun. Leo, Revoldo and Akran HP came down to BC.
17/08/03 Today was sunny but windy day.
Advance party also came down to BC with heavy loads. Thus the expedition
success option finish.
18/08/03 Today was sunny day with partially
cloudy. All members are repacking their gears for the return journey. Millio
and Doctor gone to C1 to clear their equipment and camp back in the evening.
Akram HP was hired by the Germany lady. Karim called 25 porters for the return
trip. Tomorrow we are planning to trek down to Manphikhoro. And on 20th
to Arandu and same day ride jeep for Skardu. 21st to Islamabad by
air/road to Chilas. 22nd Islamabad.
Conclusion: In my
personal opinion (which might be different from other members) the expedition
made some mistake and also face some problems which in result turn this
expedition into a unsuccessful one.
No coordination between advance team and team led by the leader.
The expedition has plan less days (only 15 days) for climbing Spantik
Peak, there need to be another 4 or 5 days more. I recommend minimum 20 days
of climbing from base camp to back base camp.
The second party led by the leader took the decision not to bought rope
from Japanese. He should have taken the chance to buy already fixed rope from
Japanese and can save his two or three days, these two or three days can be
better result make in the end of the trip rather they spent these days in C2
and fixing the rope between C2 and C3.
Bad weather, the expedition got only two or three good or fairly better
days, when they finally decided to come down.
The best time for Spantik Peak is June, July and Early August – as the
days gets hot snow start malting even in C1 and C2 and caravas getting wider
between C2 and C3.
Arandu village is about 2500m and 6 hours from Skardu.
Manphikhoro camp is about 3200m and walk is about 7-8 hours from Arandu.
Manphikhoro to Blocho walk is about 7-8 hours and Blocho height is
Blocho to Base Camp walk is about 8 hours and the height of BC is 4100m
Advance Base Camp is 150m higher from Base camp and walk is about 20 to
Walk from Chogolingma BC to C1 at (an altitude of 5000m) is about 4
hours and it is about 45% upwards and dry.
From C1 to C2 at an altitude of 5270m it is 10% upwards.
From C2 to C3 at an altitude of 6060m it is 80% upwards.
From C2 to C3 lots of crevasses, one should need about 800 meters fixed
From C3 at an altitude of 6060m to Top and it is 45% upwards.
We were 9 members, one liaison officer, one guide, one
cook, one assistance cook and two high porters. We hired 4 jeeps from Skardu
to Arandu village, We had 6 carasine oil, 2 goats for the base camp meat, We
had 65 porters going up and 32 final for coming down, We had one mess tent,
one kitchen tent, one toilet tent, 11 chairs, 3 tables and 7 members tent for
the base camp. We paid 240 rupees each porters into 6 stages comes 1440 rupees
plus 200 rupees for equipment money, 50 rupees for meat money and 100 rupees
tip money, total we paid to each porters was 1790 rupees. Asghar Ali Porik