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  Spantik 2003 Post expedition report


Spantik

img_14.jpg (8115 bytes)

7027m

(Sapang-Tik, meaning little garden)

Spantik Peak 7027 meters In the past few years this unknown peak became so much popular that now a days it attract 5 to 10 expedition each year. Since its base camp is within easy reach. Spantik lies in the Karakorum Range and its base camp can be reached in four days INCLUDING one day for the jeep drive from Skardu. For about three days we will trek on and beside Chogolungma glacier before we reach Spantik peak base camp 4100 meters. Spantik lies in between Nagar Valley (also known as Golden Peak) near Hunza and Arandu Valley in Baltistan. The normal South East route to Spantik 7027 meters is from Chogolungma Glacier in Arandu Valley of Baltistan also known as Little Tibet. Among 7000's meters high peaks Spantik is the most beautiful and fascinating peak. Every year it's attract dozens of adventure lovers from all over the World, from which 80% of them successfully climb this beautiful mountain. As with many high mountains, weather and snow conditions, and climbers personal fitness and acclimatization will determine WHETHER the summit is reached. Although not technically difficult, Spantik peak is a serious UNDERTAKING and requires extensive previous alpine or expedition experience.

ITINERARY

Purposed

01 & 02 ARRIVAL RAWALPINDI / ISLAMABAD

Upon arrival met and transfer to your hotel in Rawalpindi. After a short rest drive to Islamabad, Ministry of Tourism to complete the necessary formalities and obtain climbing permit.

DAY 03 RAWALPINDI/SKARDU

Fly to Skardu, If unable to fly, same day we will drive to Skardu 2300m, spending a night in Chilas.

DAY 04 SKARDU

Emergency day in case, flight does not operate on day 03 this day will be use to transfer the members by road from Chilas to Skardu. Total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is 22-24 hours.

DAY 05 SKARDU

Final arrangement for the expedition.

DAY 06 SKARDU -TO- ARANDU

Embark jeeps for a half day ride on a winding jeep trail to Arandu - The last inhabitance on our way to the Base Camp.

Note :-The road to Arandu comes undergoing rapid erosion and gets closed quite often. If unable to jeep, the group will disembark & walk to Arandu on the same day or camp for overnight (subject to distance).

DAY 07 – 10 ARANDU -TO- BASE CAMP

Today we leave the last inhabited village. For the remaining portion of our journey we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipment’s and sustain our expedition. Overnight in tents All meals served by camp staff.

DAY 11-30 CLIMBING

20 days climb will start from today.

DAY  31 - 32 TREKKING BACK TO ARANDU VILLAGE

After an early breakfast leave the Spantik Peak base camp and we will trek down to Arandu village in two days.

DAY 33 ARANDU -TO- SKARDU

AM : Embark jeeps for a halp day ride on a winding jeep trail to Skardu. Upon arrival transfer to your chosen hotel.

DAY 34 SKARDU - RAWALPINIDI

Early in the morning fly to Islamabad, if unable to fly same day drive to Gilgit. Overnight hotel.

DAY 35 RAWALPINDI

Upon arrival transfer to your hotel in Rawalpindi. Evening sightseeing.

If unable to fly on day 34. this day will be use to transfer from Gilgit to Islamabad by road.

DAY 36 RAWALPINDI

De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism Islamabad. Evening free

DAY 37 FLY BACK HOME

Transfer to airport for your onward flight to abroad. 

Report Post-expedition

Aragon Adventure Spanish Spantik Peak Expedition 2003

Period July 26, 2003 to August 23, 2003.

Note: A must read for those who are planning to climb Spantik in future.

Members:

1.                  Mr. Jordi Adventlla Age 39

2.                  Mr. Edverdo Astudillo Age 39

3.                  Mr. Roberto de Poz Age 31

4.                  Mr. Evito Valtes Age. 34

5.                  Mr. Leo San Sebastian Age 46 Leader

6.                  Mr. Javier Ribas Age 32

7.                  Mr. Valen Giro Age 40

8.                  Mrs. Elsa Marti Age 37

9.                  Ms. Barbara Irauman Age 56

10.              Mr. Asghar Ali Porik Liaison Officer (writer)

11.              Mr. Karim Hayat Guide

12.              Mr. Ehsan Karim (Micheal) Cook

13.              Mr. Raza Assistant Cook 

Program we followed

26/7/03             Report by the Liaison Officer to Ministry of Tourism 

27/7/03             Sunday holiday Group arrival in the evening. 

28/7/03            Briefing at Ministry of Tourism Office early in the morning and same day departure for Chilas by road 12 hours drive, We spent night at Shangrila hotel Chilas..

29/7/03            Drive from Chilas to Skardu  another 12 hours drive leaved at 7pm, We spent night at Concordia motel, Skardu. 

30/7/03            Second Briefing at two government offices in Skardu..

31/7/03            Drive by jeep toward Arandu Village at 6am Arrive at Tissar in 3 hours, Road block by landslides, walked other side of the block then boarded again in jeeps, stop for lunch at Choothrone hot spring at rest house, need approximately two hours advance notice to make lunch. Doko to Arandu jeep road is very bad and dangerous, one of our jeep gone down few meters luckily no injuries but lost equipment. We reach in 4 hours from Doko to Arandu.  We paid 1500 rupees from Skardu to Arandu for one jeep and 2000 rupees for one wagon or jeep to Arandu. Overnight in tents. 

01/08/03            First day of our trek from Arandu to Manpikhoro and quite nice camping place with glacier water running close to your tents. A long walk starts from Arandu village within half hours we were on the snout of Chogolungma Glacier, for about one hours we find our way on the glacier to the right side of the morain and walking mostly upward we reach the camp site of Manpikhoro in an about 8 hours. The day was clear with lots of sun, we hired about 65 porters. 

02/08/03            Another long walk for about 7-8 hours to Blocho and small camp site for about 10 tents maximum. Near by is the clean drinking water. It was sunny until mid day and after noon its start getting cloudy and it start raining in the mid might. We takes the right side of morain up and down, last part before reaching the camp site we have to walk on the glacier for about half an hours. Overnight in tents.

03/08/03            Early morning we leave the Blocho camp, we are on the stony glacier zig zag for about 40 minutes before we reach the central morain of Chogolungma glacier, We zig zag to avoid the open caravas and going all the way upwards, before we reach at our camp site on the Chogolungma glacier close to the SE ridge of Spantik Peak. There are three camps site, one is on the South side called Japanese route. It is difficult to reach this camp site plus you have to pay extra to the porters to bring you to the Japanese base camp, secondly there is not too much place for a medium size group. Second base camp is the traditional base camp on the Chogolungma glacier where we were camping. Third camp is newly used by the expeditions is little higher and about 150 meters from our camp site on the SE ridge of Spantik Peak. It is very nice base camp and has good view around. Can accommodate about 3 to 4 medium size groups. With lots of green ground near by plus Snow and spring water. Recommended for base camping, I name it ABC, you have to pay half stage more to porters for coming to this point, bargain hard. 

04/08/03            Today we have a rest day, it was a rainy day but members start preparing for the coming days sort out high altitude food and equipment. 

05/08/03            Today Japanese Tochigi Expedition who summit Spantik on 30/7/03 by putting three of their members of top out of four are gone down, On our way up to the base camp we also met a Spanish Expedition for Malmuting Peak, one of there members out of four climb Malmuting. 

                        At 7am all the nine members of our team and three Pakistan staff members Karim guide 29 years, Javed High porter 27 years, Akram high porter 29 years leave for C1 5000m . In three to four hours all reach at C1 and deposited high altitude food and equipment and stay there for about 2 hours before returning back to BC at 4pm. Today was a cloudy day with partial raining. 

06/08/03            At 7am three Pakistani staff  and members again walk to the C1 taking supplies and equipment. Today our climbing team split into two groups, one is trying to climb with the help of two high altitude porters and assistance from guide and second team is trying to summit by their own without high porters and assistance from guide while doing this they took lots  of heavy  equipment and supplies themselves. The first team came back to BC with the leader after staying for about 2 hours at C1, however the second team was planning to stay there. I also walk to ABC at 4300m to see friends there, today was a nice sunny day with some clouds. While you are walking to ABC on the way you can see more then 10 different kind of flowers with lots of grass and small mountain trees, birds, butterflies and much more. From the ABC one can see Mulbuting 1, II Peaks, Polan La, Liala and Majnoon Peaks, Akbar Peak but still one can not see spantik either from ABC or from traditional BC. The view from ABC is supper. One can also camp here for Mulbuting close by other peaks.

07/08/03            Today was a sunny day with some clouds members stay at BC and done some washing and sorting out the equipment. The second party was planning to go to the C2 and return to C1 to sleep. Roberto was feel head-ach; Jordi came down to pick more supplies

08/08/03            Today was a nice partially cloudy and partially sunny day. All remaining members and staff depart for C1, they leave the BC about 11am, and they are planning to sleep at C1. The second party tried to reach C2 with heavy load but could not reach due to deep snow secondly they leave the C1 late snow was soft, which make it difficult for them to walk and finally they came back to C1.

0908/03            Today was partially sunny and mostly cloudy day. Akram HP came down to get more supplies. He told that every body is at C1 and Pakistani staff is planning to establish C2  and will return to C1 for the night.

10/08/03            Today was mostly cloudy weather with rain and snow. Second group led by leader and Pakistani staff came back to Base Camp due to bad weather. When the weather break during the day the advance party gone to C2 to sleep. Ms. Barbara cancelled her plan to make any other attempt due to physical problem.

11/08/03            Today all the day it was raining second party led by leader and Pakistani staff leave Base Camp for C1 at about 11 am. While talking Leo said that if the weather will be better next morning they will try to go to C2. Whereas there is no news from the advance party.

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12/08/03            It was mostly sunny and partially cloudy day. Leader and Pakistani staff reach the C2 and they want to stay there for another day. Snow condition is not good, deep and soft snow. The advance party could not reach to C3 and they were sleeping between C2 and C3. Milio and Doctor came back to C2. Japanese who are in C3 for couple of days, tonight they will try to make summit bid.

13/08/03            today all day weather was bad raining. In the evening it was little clear. Japanese three members reach the top and now they are coming down, our team those who are in C2 are discussing the option to buy fixed rope from Japanese it is about 800m rope Japanese fixed between C2 and C3. Finally I heard that the price Japanese were asking 50 dollars per person. But leader at the end refused to buy their rope due to weather uncertainty and less days remaining in hand. Iranian party consisting of nine members arrive at ABC 

14/08/03            Today was cloudy partially rainy day with sky clearing in the evening. Leo and his team fixed rope between C2 and C3 about 200m. Javed and Rahim closed the C1 and brought down the equipment. Karim also came back from C2 to base camp due to poor health. Today night was clear with stars.

15/08/03            Today was mostly clear with lots of sun shine. Leader and his team is still in C2, two members from advance party are planning to recover the remain distance to C3. Two members came down to BC from C2. Karim and Javed again thought of making summit bid and leave the BC at 4:30 pm. 

16/08/03            Today again was a very clear day with lots of sun. Leo, Revoldo and Akran HP came down to BC. 

17/08/03            Today was sunny but windy day. Advance party also came down to BC with heavy loads. Thus the expedition success option finish.  

18/08/03            Today was sunny day with partially cloudy. All members are repacking their gears for the return journey. Millio and Doctor gone to C1 to clear their equipment and camp back in the evening. Akram HP was hired by the Germany lady. Karim called 25 porters for the return trip. Tomorrow we are planning to trek down to Manphikhoro. And on 20th to Arandu and same day ride jeep for Skardu. 21st to Islamabad by air/road to Chilas. 22nd Islamabad.  

Conclusion: In my personal opinion (which might be different from other members) the expedition made some mistake and also face some problems which in result turn this expedition into a unsuccessful one.  

1.                  No coordination between advance team and team led by the leader.

2.                  The expedition has plan less days (only 15 days) for climbing Spantik Peak, there need to be another 4 or 5 days more. I recommend minimum 20 days of climbing from base camp to back base camp.

3.                  The second party led by the leader took the decision not to bought rope from Japanese. He should have taken the chance to buy already fixed rope from Japanese and can save his two or three days, these two or three days can be better result make in the end of the trip rather they spent these days in C2 and fixing the rope between C2 and C3.

4.                  Bad weather, the expedition got only two or three good or fairly better days, when they finally decided to come down.

Technical information:

1.                  The best time for Spantik Peak is June, July and Early August – as the days gets hot snow start malting even in C1 and C2 and caravas getting wider between C2 and C3.

2.                  Arandu village is about 2500m and 6 hours from Skardu.

3.                  Manphikhoro camp is about 3200m and walk is about 7-8 hours from Arandu.

4.                  Manphikhoro to Blocho walk is about 7-8 hours and Blocho height is about 3660m.

5.                  Blocho to Base Camp walk is about 8 hours and the height of BC is 4100m

6.                  Advance Base Camp is 150m higher from Base camp and walk is about 20 to 30 minutes.

7.                  Walk from Chogolingma BC to C1 at (an altitude of 5000m) is about 4 hours and it is about 45% upwards and dry.

8.                  From C1 to C2 at an altitude of 5270m it is 10% upwards.

9.                  From C2 to C3 at an altitude of 6060m it is 80% upwards.

10.              From C2 to C3 lots of crevasses, one should need about 800 meters fixed rope.

11.              From C3 at an altitude of 6060m to Top and it is 45% upwards. 

Miscellaneous information: 

We were 9 members, one liaison officer, one guide, one cook, one assistance cook and two high porters. We hired 4 jeeps from Skardu to Arandu village, We had 6 carasine oil, 2 goats for the base camp meat, We had 65 porters going up and 32 final for coming down, We had one mess tent, one kitchen tent, one toilet tent, 11 chairs, 3 tables and 7 members tent for the base camp. We paid 240 rupees each porters into 6 stages comes 1440 rupees plus 200 rupees for equipment money, 50 rupees for meat money and 100 rupees tip money, total we paid to each porters was 1790 rupees. Asghar Ali Porik Liaison Officer

 
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