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Adventure
Extreme Everest 2001 Expedition
Update
6/2/2001:
Mark McDermott, has joined Stephen Venables (5/12/88)
and Alison Hargreaves (5/13/95) as the only British
climbers that has reached the Summit of Everest
without the use of artificial oxygen. It should be
noted, to get credit for a Summit of Everest without artificial
oxygen, one must not use oxygen at all during the
climb. (Which is why you see EverestNews.com asked the
questions we did. Mark has also stated to us that he
did not use artificial oxygen at all during the
climb.)
Before
Spring 2001, there was 98 ascents of Everest made by
77 climbers that have been credited with this
achievement. There are others that have made claims
that are not in the 98.
Several
claims of Summits of Everest without artificial oxygen
were made this year, which EverestNews.com believes
will result in several more climbers being adding to
this list.
Update
6/2/2001: Thanks for your email - we are back in
Kathmandu now just getting ready to head home for a
few months before coming out again to Nepal. Regarding
Mark McDermott's ascent - I can confirm that he did
not use oxygen at all during the ascent of Everest.
Mark carried a bottle to the foot of the 3rd step
which he deposited there. On the way down he gave that
bottle to Roland Hunter who was using Oxygen, and
continued down. I hope that clarifies things a little.
All
the best, Terry Stubbs -
Expedition Leader
Update
5/29/2001:
Dear EverestNews.com, Sorry for the delay in answering
your last email but we have been traveling back to
Kathmandu from BC. In answer to your questions:
1. Mark
McDermott (Adventure Extreme Everest Expedition)
carried a 4.l bottle of Oxygen to the foot of the
third step but
did not use any
- He gave the full bottle to Mr. Roland Hunter,
another team member who was using Oxygen, and carried
on up without his rucsac to the summit.
[This
would appear to be a Summit of Everest without oxygen
by a British climber !]
2. Mr.
Roland Hunter (Adventure Extreme Everest Expedition)
also summitted that morning using Oxygen - Both
returned without problems to camp 2 that evening and
descended to ABC the next day.
3.
There was a rescue of Brices's team members (2
persons) by the American group (Simonson) - I
understand that one of Russell's guides (Andy) and a
client on the 23rd had to spend the night at 8700
meters. The next day there was a concerted effort to
bring them down by both the Americans who were in the
best position to help and the Himex team. Both were
safely rescued.
Terry
Stubbs -
Expedition Leader
May
22nd, 2001
Two
members of Adventure Extreme Everest expedition
have today reached the summit via the north col
route and are currently descending to camp 2.
The members names are Roland Hunter and Mark
McDermott. Due to weather problems and departure
date constraints we will make no further ascents
on the mountain. The ascent was made during a
brief weather window, the past week being
unsuitable.
May
18th 12:24 AM Tibet
Three
of our strongest climbers are today on the North
Col. Tomorrow they will climb to camp 2 and on
to camp 3 on the 20th. If weather permits they
will make a summit bid on the 21st. This is the
last chance for the summit as the group return
to Kathmandu on the 27th May for flights home.
The forecast for the period is not great giving likelihood
of some snowfall adding to the depth already on
the mountain. This is likely to make the going
difficult and slow. Only the Russians and the
large Simonson American expedition have so far
attempted a summit bid, none have come close to
success as yet.