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TYPES OF
HIMALAYAN EXPEDITIONS
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By Eric Simonson
Himalayan expeditions run the gamut from bare
bones to plush. Depending on the level of support desired by the climber,
money available, and the team's ability at raising sponsorship, there are a
number of options. Keep in mind that these distinctions are not hard
and fast (and these are only my opinions). Some trips may cross-over
between categories. A good way to define the different types of
expeditions is to follow the money: where does it come from and where does
it go!
Money comes from Outside Sources:
1. The Classic Everest Expedition:
The team raises the money as a group through sponsors, goes as a team to the
mountain, and has a hierarchical leadership structure. This type of Expedition
used to be common on Everest, but now it is very difficult to raise this kind of
money unless you are a National Expedition (Singapore, Indonesia, etc), have a
"hook" that you can sell (environmental, disabled, women, etc), or
work very hard and have lots of rich friends and good contacts! On this
type of trip the members usually donate their labor to organize and what they
generate by their efforts goes into the "group fund", not into their
own account. Members generally do not get paid (though in some cases there
may be other deals involved, like book or film rights, which may generate income
for some people). It is not uncommon for members of this type of
expedition to be asked to give up some rights to their photographs for the
expedition's use.
2. The Professional Expedition:
In this case a sponsoring organization hires climbers to do a job, such as
filming (IMAX), science (Boston Museum of Science), or research. It is not
uncommon for some people to get paid more and others less on this kind of trip,
depending on what they bring to the table. 2. The Professional Expedition
In this case a sponsoring organization hires climbers to do a job, such as
filming (IMAX), science (Boston Museum of Science), or research. It is not
uncommon for some people to get paid more and others less on this kind of trip,
depending on what they bring to the table.
Money Comes from Participants:
3. Self funded Expedition:
There are a lot of non-guided groups that raise their own money as individuals.
The key here is that each person is responsible for a given share of the budget:
either they raise the money or pay from their own pocket. In addition they
may get some equipment donated by sponsors or a modest amount of cash.
Usually the Leader is not in to make a profit, but may benefit in other ways or
have some of his or her expenses covered by the expedition.
4. Consulted Expedition: On
this type of commercial expedition the Leader sells "slots" on
the permit and makes a profit. The Leader has minimal responsibility above
BC, but may act as a consultant to climbers above. Climbers are not guided and
are usually "on their own" above ABC. Sherpa support and oxygen
may or may not be included (members may have to pay extra). On Everest
these expeditions usually run in the 10-20K range.
5. Semi-Guided Expedition:
On this type of expedition the Leader and guides work more closely with
the clients. Sherpas and guides ensure that ropes and camps
are installed and put oxygen in place in the higher camps. There are
usually Western guides and some Sherpas acting as guides. Clients may or
may not summit without a guide present. On Everest these expeditions
usually run in the 30-40K range.
6. Fully Guided Expedition:
This is the classic guiding style where the guides are with the clients at all
times on the mountain, ready to assist. This kind of expedition is
generally the most expensive because there are more Western guides on the team,
and additional Sherpas. Out of the 900 plus people that have climbed
Everest, my guess is that probably far less than 100 people are in this
category, despite what the media would like you to believe! On Everest
these expeditions usually run in the 50-65K range.
7. Hybrid Expeditions:
Now
a days it is not unusual to see expeditions that combine several of the above
styles. For example, on a permit might be several individuals who are
climbing in a fully guided role. Also on the permit might be other
individuals who are climbing "non-guided", just using the BC, ABC, and
infrastructure of the guided group. There might also be individuals on a
permit who are fortunate enough to be fully sponsored.
As a side note to this hybrid category, I am
offering for the second time (we did it in 1998 as well) the chance for people
to go part way on Everest. I have had a lot of people say they don't have
the time, money, or experience to really give the summit of Everest a shot.
We offer a program (International Mountain Guides) to just go to the North Col
(or higher), but not the summit. Not a bad idea for someone who would love
to get on Everest, but not risk their neck at 8800 meters!
What has amazed me the most in my 20 years of
Himalayan climbing is to see how accessible these mountains have become to
regular folks. I remember back in the 60's and 70's when I was first
starting out in climbing that the dream to go to Everest seemed so hard to
imagine. It seemed you had to be a part of some National Expedition team or
be a superstar. Now a days anybody can go if you have the right skills and
some money. It really reflects the democratization of the sport! Its
not just a handful of elite climbers anymore. I remember that when I first
went to Everest North Face in 1982 I thought it was the only chance I would ever
get to go to Everest. When we were unsuccessful, I was heartbroken. I
thought that I had blown my only chance ever. Now I realize that if you
want, you can go back again and again. This means you don't have to push
your luck and do something stupid. Some times things just don't work out
as planned...that's OK. Go home in one piece and come back and try your
luck again!
Eric Simonson Ashford, WA
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