8000 Meter Peaks

Seven Summits

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Denis Urubko, a man moving up the ladder with his eye set on the Quest for the 14 without oxygen. Latest Expedition: Winter K2 2003

About my 8000-metres peaks:
1. 5/24/2000 - Everest 8848 without oxygen south classic way.
2. 5/23/2001 - Lhotse 8516 without oxygen normal route.
3. 8/13/2001 - Hidden Peak (G1) 8068 without oxygen Japanese couloir.
4. 8/20/2001 - Gasherbrum 2 8035 without oxygen normal way speed ascent: from 5800 to top in 7 hours 30 minutes, and back to 5800 in 4 hours.

5. Kangchenjunga Spring 2002 expedition: Result Summit!

6. Autumn Shishapangma: Result Summit

Source: Denis

I was born 29 Julie 1973 in Russia in the North Caucasus. I lived for a long period (1986-1990) in South Sakhalin with my family. At this time I live in Almaty (Kazakhstan). Under officer of Central Sport Club of Army – professional sportsman. Education – actor, special sportivity, videooperator.

Other highlights:

“Snow Leopard” – have climbings on the 5 “seventhousand” peaks of  UIC(USSR), - in 42 days.

The top of world – Everest without oxygen

Champion of Kasakhstan alpinism 4 times.

Best climber of Kazakhstan in 1998 and 1999.

Champion of Kazakhstan-97,98,99 in speed ascent to the Amangeldy peak (3999).

Second place in competition (1998,1999) of 2 kinds alpintechnical (the run to up (1 place) and rock climbing).

Near 1500 climbs.

32 climbs of Hi Top quality (CIS classification).

5 climbs on “sixthousand” peaks, 10 on “seventhousand” peaks, 1 on the “eightthousand” peak. 

34 climbs SOLO.

The best climbs 2000: Podkova Tuyuksu 5 tops (4410) – in winter team’s leader, Svobodnoy Korei peak (4740) – N face in winter, Everest (8848) – classical route with out oxygen, Khan-Tengry peak (7010) – N fase team’s lider, Khan-Tengry peak (7010) – classical route First plase in speedascent competition.

1999: Svobodnoy Korei peak (4740) – N face in winter team’s leader, Lenin peak (7134) – classical route alpinstile without acclimatization, E.Korzhenevskaya peak (7105) – classical route, Kommunizm peak (7495) – classical route, Khan-Tengry peak (7010) – classical route, Pobedy peak (7439) – classical route. 

1998: A. Blok peak (5250) – W face climb’s leader. 

1997: Mayakovskiy peak (4208) – SW face SOLO.

1995: Mramornaya Stena peak (6400) – traverse, Khan-Tengry peak (7010).

1994: Svobodnoy Korei peak (4740) – N face, Uchitel peak (4045) – SW rib SOLO, Mramornaya Stena peak (6400) – classical route, RGO (6500) – W rib.

1993: Mramornaya Stena peak (6400) – classical route, Khan-Tengry peak (7010) – 2 times – classical route, Ordjonikidze peak – N fase SOLO.

1992: Klyutchevskoy volcano (4850) – SOLO in winter, Ak-Su Main (5355) – SOLO.

1991: Belukha Main (4506) – SOLO.

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