Vinson 2002!

Dispatch Index

GEAR LIST FOR VINSON MASSIF

Please note:  This online gear list is only a guide.  The Alpine Ascents  gear lists are continuously updated to reflect the most current information and experiences with the gear for your trip. 

FOOTWEAR
[ ] Double Plastic Climbing Boots with Aveolite Liners. Good quality plastic shells with Aveolite inner boots. Make sure that your liners are new; they will pack out over time which decreases their insulation. Also note that liners will expand at altitude, so it is very important to size your boots accordingly. Avoid tight fit with heavy socks. Suggested: Koflach Artis Expedition, Scarpa Invernos, or One Sport Everest.

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[ ] Fully Insulated Overboots. Suggested: 40 Below K2 Overboots, Outdoor Research Brooks Rangers. Not needed with One Sport Everest Boots.
[ ] Crampons. With flat rather than "cookie cutter" frame rails. Your crampons should be steel, not aluminum for strength and durability. Avoid anti-balling plates which are heavy and are useful only in very specific snow conditions. A combination heel bail/toe strap is a better system than a heel and toe bail system. Suggested: Charlet Moser Super 12 Rapidfix Lanieres, Grivel G12 New-Matic, or Black Diamond Sabertooths.
[ ] Gaiters. Required: Outdoor Research Expedition "Crocodiles". Not needed with One Sport Everest Boots.

CLIMBING TOOLS
[ ] Adjustable Ski/Trekking Poles. 3 Sections are the most versatile. Suggested: Leki, Life Link, Black Diamond.
[ ] Ice Axe w/Leash. General mountaineering tool. Sizing is important: under 5'7" use a 60cm tool; 5'7"- 6'1" use a 65cm tool; over 6'1" use a 70cm tool. (Too short is preferable to too long). No rubberized grips-they are heavy and do not plunge well into the snow. Make sure that you have a leash that is designed for use on a glacier axe or a leash that you make from 9/16 webbing. Please no technical leashes designed for ice climbing-they are too short, heavy, and not versatile. Suggested: SMC Himalayan or Black Diamond Arc Light or Grivel Pamir.
[ ] Alpine Climbing Harness. Harness should fit over all clothing, have gear loops, adjustable leg loops and be reasonably comfortable to hang suspended in. Make sure you can get into the harness without having to step through any part of it. Suggested: Black Diamond Bod Harness or Alpine Bod w/ modifications of adding gear loops made with plastic tubing and cord.
[ ] Carabiners (4) Locking; (6) Regular. 2 HMS Twistlock & 2 small screwgate lockers; 6 standard ovals recommended.
[ ] Perlon. 40 ft. of flexible 6mm for prussiks. If you have taken a course with us, bring your glacier rig.

TECHNICAL CLOTHING
[ ] Lightweight Underwear. 2 pair tops & bottoms, Capilene, other synthetic or wool. No Cotton. Lightweight is preferable as it is more versatile (worn single in warmer conditions and double layer for colder). Zip-T-neck tops allow more ventilation options. One set of white for intense sunny days on the glacier and one pair of dark for faster drying gives the most versatility. Suggested: North Face Micronamics, Marmot DriClime, or Patagonia Capilene. Additional for women: Patagonia Capilita Trunks and Shaka Bra.
[ ] Expedition Weight Underwear. 1 pair. Expedition weight Capilene. (Alternative: a one-piece suit) Suggested: Feathered Friends Husky Suit.
[ ] Fleece/Synthetic Jacket. Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300). A full-zip version is easier to put on and has better ventilation than a pullover. Suggested: North Face Denali, Patagonia R-3.
[ ] Fleece/Synthetic Pants. Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300) with full separating side zippers (This is vitally important for ventilation and for the safety and ease of dressing up or down when conditions change in the middle of a climb). Suggested: North Face, Outdoor Research, Patagonia.
[ ] Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with hood.  For the jacket we highly recommend a long front zipper, a roomy rather than snug fit and underarm zips which go well below the armpit. We also require full separating side zippers on the pants. Suggested: North Face, Outdoor Research, Patagonia.
[ ] Down Pants. To fit over insulation layers. Outer shell must be windproof/water resistant. Suggested: North Face Baltoro, Feathered Friends Volant.
[ ] Down Parka. (Expedition Weight, must be fully baffled, have insulated hood, and go below the waist) Suggested: North Face Baltoro, Mt. Hardwear Absolute Zero, Marmot 8000 meter, Feathered Friends Rock & Ice or Ice Fall with overfill.

MITTS & GLOVES
[ ] 2 Pair Synthetic Gloves. No Windstopper. Bunting or fleece gloves which will fit comfortably inside mitts. A heavier fleece will do a better job of keeping hands warmer when wet than lighter polypropylene or Capilene. Suggested: North Face, Patagonia.
[ ] 1 Pair Double Pile Mitts and 1 pair Gore-Tex Overmitts. Outdoor Research Pros w/double liners are required. Should be big enough so that gloves fit inside pile liners.
[ ] Hand warmers and Toe Warmers: Bring 3 sets of each. The difference is that Toe Warmers are formulated to work in a lower oxygen environment (such as the inside of a boot) and they also burn out more quickly.

SOCKS
[ ] Wool or Pile Socks. 3 pair heavyweight wool or synthetic socks to be worn over the liner socks. When layering socks, check fit over feet and inside boots. Suggested: Bridgedale, Thorlo, Smartwool, Patagonia.
[ ] Liner Socks. 3 pair of smooth thin wool, nylon or Capilene to be worn next to the skin. This reduces the incidence of blisters and hot-spots and makes the outer sock last longer before needing to be changed. They should fit well with your heavyweight socks.
[ ] Vapor Barrier Socks (Optional) Coated nylon recommended over neoprene as neoprene expands at high altitude. Suggested: Climb High.
[ ] Booties. PolarGuard recommended. The best booties are the Parbat Mountaineering available from Mountain Gear www.mgear.com.

HEADWEAR
[ ] Pile or Wool Ski Hat. Make sure ears are covered.
[ ] 2 Balaclavas (1) Heavyweight, (1) Lightweight. Suggested: Outdoor Research, North Face. Heavyweight must fit over lightweight.
[ ] Neoprene Face Mask (optional).
[ ] Baseball Cap or other Sun Hat. One with a good visor to shade the nose and eyes. Synthetic (quick dry)
[ ] 2 Bandanas. To shade the neck.
[ ] Neck Gaiter
[ ] Glacier glasses with Side Covers. 100% UV, IR, high quality optical lenses designed for mountain use, must have side covers, leashes, and a nose guard is particularly helpful (Chums MelaNoNo is a good brand). No more than 8% light transmission. Suggested: Bolle, Bucci, Julbo Round "Arc"or Cebe. If you wear contact lenses we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses-it is a good idea to have these with "photo-gray" or equivalent light-sensitive material so they can double as emergency sunglasses. If you wear glasses we recommend prescription glacier glasses (gray or amber). Talk to your eye care professional to find out where prescription glacier glasses are available. Regular sunglasses are not dark enough and do not provide any side protection from the sun. For prescription Glacier Glasses, contact Black Diamond (801) 278-5533 or Opticus www.opticusinc.com
[ ] Nose Guard. For glasses. Suggested: Chums MelaNoNo
[ ] Ski Goggles, 1 pair. Dark 100% UV & IR. Bolle's Chrono work well. Climbers with glasses try X-700, they fit over glasses.

CAMPING
[ ] Sleeping Bag. (Expedition quality rated to at least -30ºF). Goose down preferred over synthetic for bulk & weight. If well-cared-for a down bag will last much longer than a synthetic bag. Your bag needs to be long enough that your feet are not pressing out the foot box which will make you colder. It should be roomy enough for comfortable sleeping but snug enough for efficient heat retention. Suggested: North Face Inferno, Feathered Friends Snow Goose, or Marmot CWM. (Limited rentals available, cost is $225.00)
[ ] One Therma-Rest pad. One 3/4 or full length Therma-Rest pad. If you are over 6' a long is recommended. Make sure to include a valve stem and patch repair kit for your Therma-Rest. Suggested: Cascade Designs Therma-Rest Guide Light model
[ ] One Closed-Cell foam pad. Full length closed cell is recommended. Suggested: Cascade Designs Ridge-Rest
[ ] Backpack. Internal frame pack expandable to a minimum of 6,000 cu.in. Keep it simple and light, avoid unnecessary zippers, etc which add weight. Suggested: North Face, Kelty, Gregory, Dana Designs Terraplane or Astralplane
[ ] Cooking Gear:
Cup: 16oz. plastic insulated mug with snap-on lid (retains heat well and is spill-resistant in the tent).
Some prefer a non-insulated mug for warming hands.
Spoon: Good quality tough plastic (lexan).
Bowl: Deep plastic with 2-3 cup capacity with lid.
[ ] Sunscreen. SPF 40 or better, 2 small tubes. Please note: Sunscreen older than 6 months loses half of its SPF rating, make sure that you have new sunscreen. Suggested: Dermatone or AloeGator.
[ ] Lipscreen. SPF 40 or better, at least 2 sticks. Make sure your lipscreen is new. Suggested: Dermatone or Banana Boat.
[ ] Water Bottles: 2 liters minimum capacity. Two 1 liter & One .5 liter wide-mouth required. No water bags or bladder systems, they freeze.
[ ] 1 Water Bottle Parka. Suggested: Outdoor Research
[ ] Purell Hand Sanitizer. Other alcohol based hand cleaners also work well.
[ ] Pee Bottle (1 Liter). Large mouth, clearly marked water bottle.
[ ] Pee Funnel (for women). It is a good idea to practice, practice, practice. Suggested: Freshette.
[ ] Swiss Army Knife. Medium size. Keep it simple and light, needs a blade and screwdriver. Suggested: Swiss Army Super Tinker.
[ ] Bic Lighter
[ ] Small Personal First-Aid Kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, Moleskin, molefoam, waterproof first-aid tape, athletic tape, Band-Aids, personal medications.

TRAVELING
[ ] 4 Trash Compactor bags. To line stuff sacks to keep gear dry & one large enough to line pack. Trash Compactor bags are made from a heavier plastic.
[ ] Travel Clothes. Clean clothes to wear before and after the expedition in Punta Arenas.
[ ] Toiletry Bag. Nothing but the basics: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, Baby Wipes. Include two rolls of toilet paper.
[ ] Compression Stuff Sacks work well for reducing volume. Especially for sleeping bags and clothing.
[ ] Large Duffel Bag with lock. 1 for transporting all gear. Also used for gear storage. Eagle Creek XXL Cargo Duffle.
[ ] Camera gear: Optional. Keep it simple and light. Best film for Antarctica and other glacier areas: for 35mm color slides recommend Fuji Provia 100 speed or Fuji Velvia 50 speed high contract; for color negatives recommend Kodak portra 160 speed NC.