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Osamu
Tanabe (6 Summits of the 14 8000 meter peaks including
Everest, K2, Makalu and Broad Peak) will lead a 7 member Japanese expedition on an
attempt on Lhotse via the south face this winter
2001/2002. This Japanese expedition (JAC Tokai
Section) is attempting the first winter ascent of the
South face of Lhotse.
The
South Face 3300 meters high has been attempted in the
past by Reinhold Messner, Jerzy Kukuczka, Christophe
Profit to name a few. Most of the mountaineers have
been unsuccessful and several have died including
Jerzy Kukuczka on the attempt.
The
South Face of Lhotse was first climbed by the famous
mountaineer Tomo Cesen in the Spring of 1990, but some
questioned the ascent. The Soviets climbed the South Face
in the Autumn of 1990 and opened a new route on the
big wall but several climbers received very serious
frostbite.
This
Japanese expedition made a "reconnaissance"
in December 1999 which they believe gave them valuable
insight into climbing the mountain. They hoped to
climb the mountain in December before the winter jet
stream of 100km.min prevails. The winter ascent of the
South Face Lhotse is unclimbed; if Jerzy Kukuczka could not, can
any? We will see...
Author
of the first winter ascent on the Lhotse is Krzysztof Wielicki
(Poland) - December 31, 1988, a member of the
Belgian-Poland Expedition (leader Herman Dettien,
technical adviser Andrzej Zawada). A Route: from the Western
Cwm directly via the western face to Lhotse Main
(Normal Route, First Ascent Route).
Update
1/3/2001: Hi EverestNews.com !
This
is to inform you that we are not supporting the Lhotse
winter expedition. [In reply to our request for
information.]
Well
we just know that they failed in their attempt from
South Face of Lhotse. Ministry of Tourism is yet to
know the final point they reached, as the team has not
submitted their climbing report after the completion
of their expedition.
Warmest
regards, Mohan & Bikal
Asian
Trekking
Winter
2001/2002 Nepal Expeditions
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