The wind is
blowing, stirring up snow and ice particles. K2 has
disappeared in the clouds. Marcin Kaczkan and Piotr
Morawski have been trying to find and prepare a spot
for the tents of camp II at 6600 m for two days
They have been
cutting a platform in the ice with their alpenstocks
for the tent. - The tent thatís been established
right now is very uncomfortable - says Morawski
through the radiotelephone. - Itís one half stands
on rocks, and the other hangs over the icy
precipice. We keep our things in this part. Both
above and below, the alpinists have found traces of
camps left by former expeditions. Dilapidated tents,
melted into the ice, are located on very steep
slopes, rendering the spots unusable.
Wasilij Piwcow and Ilias Tukwatullin, who had
reached 6600 m and established a tent on the ridge
of K2ís Northern Pillar, have spent a difficult
night in it. Denis and Wasilij have not taken along
their down trousers. Only Ilias had a down suit.
They have put their legs and arms into the only
sleeping bag they have taken along, seeking shelter
One can only
speculate about the conditions on the slope. The
wind tears at the tents so strongly that after
leaving mine for a second, I found the computer
equipment and the satellite phone swept off the
table and scattered on the ground when coming back.
The only benefit from that is the clean energy.
Bogdan Jankowski, the radio and electronic engineer,
has installed a fan generating electricity and
charging the batteries.
We have a weather
forecast at last. We owe that kind of disinterested
help to our friends from Pakistan. Thanks to the
alpinist Nazir Sabir, who has already reached the K2
summit marking a new route with a Japanese, as well
as Muhammad Hanif, a senior Pakistani meteorologist,
we began receiving weather announcements. This
gesture has made a deep impression on us not only
because it was accompanied by best wishes of
success, but also because all the attempts at
cooperating with western weather services have
failed so far due to exorbitant prices or other
forms of repaying debts that have been incurred in
such a way. The next forecasts are not very good. It
is common knowledge that with a temperature of minus
20 deg. C at the base, there are minus 50 degrees at
the summit of K2.
nobody thinks of retreating. The struggle for
conquering the mountain continues.
from the base under K2.
Written by Monika
translated by "Scrivanek".