Everest 2001 WHITE LIMBO Expedition Alpine -Style
Climbing on the World's Highest Mountain
Expedition to the North Face of Everest (8850m)
Limbo is one of the great routes on Everest: it is
long - 2800m (10,000ft), it is technical - requiring
Canadian Waterfall ice 4+ and rock climbing to YDS
5.9, it has objective danger requiring speed and great
judgment to climb through and all at extreme altitude!
do you truly climb Everest in pure alpine-style?
Alpine-style really means that you carry everything on
your back from the base of the route to the top,
climbing in one push. If you climb in the Himalaya
every year you know that some of the recent claims of
purity are bogus, and that the only way to climb
alpine-style is to pre-acclimatize. Our expedition
will climb Cho Oyu first. This means that when we
arrive at Everest we will be ready to go, in one push.
type of climbing requires experience, a lot of it. You
have to have sound judgment as well as technique. The
weather must be right and you must be in the right
state of mind. Only preparation on Cho Oyu will allow
us to take advantage of the annual good weather window
at the last week on May and first week of June.
team will have the benefit of spending a few weeks
with friends on Cho Oyu, making this leg of the
expedition more enjoyable. Keeping focus for over two
months without help of friends is nearly impossible.
So we have recruited a few climbers to help this
happen. They are experienced and competent, but more
importantly they are good people that will make this
first part of the expedition pass quickly,
successfully and enjoyably.
will then move directly to Everest' s Rongbuk Base
Camp. It is an easy two day jeep ride that will give
us the chance to take our mind's off climbing for a
few days as we travel through Tibet. All of the
world's most recognized climbers understand the notion
of mental preparation. These two days give us the
chance to focus and breathe, to regain the drive that
is required to climb such a great route. Once at base
camp the team will split, two members plus Sherpa
support-climbers heading to the North-east Ridge and
two climbers heading to the base of the North Face,
where WHITE LIMBO begins.
North-east Ridge gives great views (I know
this from our respective expeditions to Everest in
1999) into the Great Couloir, which WHITE LIMBO
follows for it's entirety. Our only means of
communication will be hand held radios, our plan is
for both teams to meet at 8600m, where the routes
converge and carry onto the summit together. The
North-east ridge team will use supplemental bottled
oxygen to ensure great photographs and quality digital
footage. The WHITE LIMBO team will not use bottled
hope that you follow our progress on the various
websites listed below and wish us the best of luck.
for your support