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 Jagged Globe Gasherbrum II 2001 Expedition: Dispatches

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe. Jagged Globe was founded by Steve Bell. Steve has more than 20 years of mountaineering experience including winter ascents of the north faces of the Eiger and Matterhorn. He claims "Britain's first guided expedition to an 8000m peak and was the first Briton to lead clients to the summit of Everest." He has climbed all of the continental summits and is a fully qualified UIAGM mountain guide. Steve and Jagged Globe are known as one of the best guiding companies in the world. Some think the Best.

Update 7/4/2001: On July 2nd Jagged Globe's third expedition to GII was the first team to establish Camp III, at 6900 meters. Most of the team members were in Camp 2 and were ready for a summit push on July 2nd when the weather deteriorated. The entire team is now back at BC planning to leave on the 6th, with a possible summit bid on the 9th or 10th July. So here's hoping the weather will improve and that we will have good news for you soon.

Update 7/10/2001: We've just got back to Camp 3 from the summit. Five of the seven members topped out, together with me and two high altitude porters (my third time on the summit of GII!). The summiteers are: Stuart Smith, Ken Sutor, Pero Kalugerovich, Philip Lawson (all from the UK) and Pablo Guarderas from Ecuador. It was a long hard day - I found it harder this year than on previous occasions, but everyone's well pleased and looking forward to getting back to BC tomorrow and heading home shortly afterwards. Nice to have 3 out of 3 on this hill, and this year is our best in terms of number on the summit. David Hamilton

Update 6/29/2001: Good weather and the first at camp 2

David has just called in this morning (Friday June 29). Having had a week of fairly poor weather after they initially arrived at Gasherbrum II base camp, it has improved over the last few days and the team have been able to make some good progress on the mountain. The were the first group to make it to camp 2 (6450 meters) just a day ago and now plan to take advantage of the good weather and head up to camp 3 at 7050 meters as soon as possible. Having dropped off some equipment at camp 3, they will return to base camp and prepare for a summit attempt which should take place in about 9 days (around Sunday  July 8th), depending, as always, on the weather. Overall, the team are enjoying being on the mountain and things are going pretty well. We wish them good luck over the next two weeks.

Update 6/24/2001: Established camp 1

Hi there, news from Gasherbrum II base camp, it's Sunday 24 June.

Since I called last week the weather has been fairly poor here, there has been intermittent snow most days and there hasn't been a good day. There are now 7 expeditions at base camp and we are probably ahead, we've got 3 tents up at camp 1 and we're moving a team up tomorrow with the aim of traversing the route towards camp 2 which is located at about 6450 meters. This part of the route is quite exposed and should take between 3 to 4 hours with fixed ropes in place. Over the next few weeks we will make this journey 2 to 3 times as we move up and place our camps higher on the mountain.

We hope that all the team will have slept at camp 2, or at least been to it and back down here in BC by next week, when I shall report again. That's all for now, everyone's reasonably well and acclimatizing okay and we are pushing up the mountain as per schedule.

David Hamilton, Expedition leader

Update 6/23/2001: The team reached base camp last Friday and should now be making progress through the icefall to establish camp 1.  Expedition leader, David Hamilton, sent a report at the start of the week saying that they had a very hot trek in up the Baltoro valley, but the last few days have seen some rain low down and snow fall higher up.  David expects about a dozen teams to arrive in base camp over the next couple of weeks, a Japanese group are already making good progress and have fixed some ropes lower down on the mountain.

Gasherbrum II is the most popular 8000 meter peak in the Karakoram which Jagged Globe has climbed twice previously in 1998 and 1999. We hope to have some more news of the team's progress soon.

Dispatch Two Saturday 16 June: Settling in at BC

We arrived at base camp on Friday (15th) and everyone is in fairly good health. Our transport from Rawalpindi to Skardu took a bit longer than expected. We set off from Skardu last Saturday and have walked here in seven days, so we've essentially caught up the little bit of time we lost due to the transport problems. It was very hot for the first couple of days on the walk in up the Baltoro valley - unseasonably so. Blue skies and too hot for walking really! Over the last 3 or 4 days, the weather has turned quite a bit and there has been rain low down and snow higher up. So we established base camp yesterday and got everything organized - mess tent up, kitchen tent up. It snowed quite a lot last night but we're getting used to being in BC and will hopefully move up on to the mountain in a day or two. Other expeditions in residence: The Japanese have been here for two weeks and have made a route through the icefall. The icefall has to be negotiated to reach the foot of G2's SW ridge where we will establish camp 1 at about 5950m. I am expecting up to a dozen other teams to arrive over the next two or three weeks. So everyone's well, that's all for now, we'll be in touch when things happen. David Hamilton Leader

Dispatch One: Team reaches Korophon: We have just heard that the team have reached Korophon and are scheduled to arrive at base camp within in 6/7 days (18 June). Over the next week, they will make the famous trek up the Baltoro glacier, through the "Throne room of the mountain gods" to Concordia. The valley contains many of the world's most celebrated peaks, including the Trango Towers (where Mike 'Twid' Turner's team are hoping to make a first ascent on Great Trango (6286m) this summer), Cathedral Spires, Masherbrum, Broad Peak, Mitre Peak and K2. Once they arrive in base camp, we expect another update with news of some of the other teams who will work together on the mountain this season.

Jagged Globe Gasherbrum II: Itinerary

Jagged Globe Gasherbrum II: David Hamilton Leader

Jagged Globe Gasherbrum II: Background

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