Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
Banners Ads
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace

   E-mail (Free)


   Mailing List

News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Seven Summits
   Readers Guide

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement






  Simone Moro and Denis Urubko will try Baruntse north side and Annapurna in 2004!

Update: after 13 day I will fly to Kathmandu. As I already described to you in my last message I will try the North Face of Baruntse that is still unclimbed. This face is in front of Island Peak and all the trekkers that will come to that mountain will have the possibility to see us at the base camp or on the face during the climb. I’m sending you a photo with our theoretical route. As you know many factors could change our climbing line.

There will be 2000 meters of vertical ice and rocky face and we will try to climb in light weight style. The top of our face is not the real summit and for that reason we will have to continue our climb on the final ridge till the real summit 7129 meters. Our idea is to descent from the north ridge (left ridge on the photo).

Denis Urubko and Bruno Tassi will be my partner during all the climb. After Baruntse only me and Denis Urubko will go to attempt Annapurna from north side…… Keep in touch Simone

Simone Moro Everest 2002

Simone Moro and company: Winter Shishapangma

Simone Moro received the David A Sowles award 2/2002

Simone Moro attempts Nanga Parbat (8125 meters), K2 (8611 meters) ...

Simone Moro Everest/Cho Oyu 2002 Expedition

Previous Update

Mt Everest Summiter Simone Moro will try Baruntse north side and Annapurna in 2004!

I’ll be returning to Nepal on the 28th of March. I’m going there in order to attempt two prestigious climbing objectives. The first will be the north wall of Baruntse (7129m). This is a “virgin” wall, untouched except by the gaze of thousands of “eye climbers!” This wall is located in front of the south wall of Lhotse (8561m), part of the mountain group between Everest and Makalu which has battled hundreds of trekkers and alpine specialists over the past 30 years. This is going to be an extreme and extremely cold (remember, it’s the north wall!) climb that will test us and our equipment to the limit. The risk is that we’ll have to use portaledge (rigid hammocks) to sleep hanging from the wall. Officially, only the north crest (the left one when facing the wall) was climbed by a French expedition in 1980. All the other ways up the mountain have been made up the opposite side, along the southeast crest. The mountain, as I’ve already said, is situated in the mountain chain that separates the massif of Everest from the Makalu region. It’s known to anyone who’s been to the high basin of Hongu where the upper part of the valley dominates spectacularly; it towers over the Amphu Labsta Pass from where it appears steep and inaccessible. It is also one of the spectacular peaks that can be seen from the summit of Island Peak. You can also see it from the base camp of Makalu. The first climb there was done by Edmund Hillary and a group ? English and New Zealanders in 1954; the year after the first they went up Everest along the southeast crest to reach the east side (Makalu).

The north wall, the object of our desire and project, is situated in front of the easy and most climbed summit of Island Peak (6165m). You can see it as well from the village of Dinboche and Chukung, where the most frequented trekking passage in the world passes, that of Everest. In spite of all this visibility, no one has ever done it from this northern side, probably because of how imposing it is (more than 2000m) and its obvious difficulty. I and my companions are going to try to do it….

Just as in 2002 and 2003 there was a daily direct radio link with “Radio24 Il Sole 24 ore” during the whole climb and from whatever place by means of satellite technology, we’ll be in contact along the way up. We are hoping to send images and video every day by way of a new modem that permits you to sent data at incredibly high speeds—the video should have the quality of television!

Immediately after this first ever attempt, we’re going to try the north wall of Annapurna (8091m—of the 8000m mountains it is the least climbed and the one with the most failures) along the route previously taken by the French. There is also the possibility, not to mention the desire, to try something new on this wall, but first we want to establish ourselves at base camp and carefully observe for ourselves the dangers of this giant that has claimed more lives than it has allowed to reach its summit…

Annapurna was the first of the 8000m group of mountains to be climbed. The historical undertaking was made by two French climbers, Maurice Herzog, who is still alive, and Louis Lachenal, who died in 1955. They were part of an expedition that included Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Jean Couzy, Marcel Schatz, Marcel Ichac and the doctor, Jacques Oudot. Herzog and Lachenal reached Annapurna’s summit on June 3rd, 1950 after having undergone, with their companions, a long and tiring search for the best way up. After having reached the summit, the two climbers began the descent that became a dramatic ordeal. They had a serious case of frost bite on their hands and feet and some painful amputations were necessary.

My companions on this vertical adventure will be Denis Urbko from Kazakhstan (he has already reached 8 summits of 8000m), who was my companion in 1999, and Bruno Tassi, alpine guide from Bergamo, who will be with us only on Baruntse. The light style that belongs to few climbers, no oxygen or porters in the high altitudes, represents our way of tackling and respecting the great mountains. We will try to conduct an expedition with the least amount of impact upon the environment, using solar power to run and recharge our electrical equipmen t. During the last expedition there were 110,000 hits on our internet site in only a little more than a month. With this new and double adventure I hope that there will be as many if not more! Simone Moro

Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.


  Altitude pre-


   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond




   CaVa Climbing Shoes

   Clif Bar



   Edelweiss ropes
Eureka Tents




   Granite Gear


   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear







   New England Ropes



   Outdoor Designs



   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier



   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

Sleeping Bags




   Trekking Poles
and more here




Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2003 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it