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 Dec. 1-10th,1999 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit EverestNews.com Sponsor page !

Daily News: 12/10/99 Report

  • Spring 2000 Expeditions

EverestNews.com was planning on waiting several weeks to begin discussing the Spring Expeditions. However, the feedback from You our readers, and the climbers is : Let's Go !

So Go we will...

Graham Ratcliffe returns to Everest ! Now don't confuse Graham Ratcliffe with Graham Hoyland. They both have reached the Summit of Everest and are both Brits. Graham Hoyland has the Mallory connection. Graham Ratcliffe last Spring became the first Brit to Summit Everest from both the North and South Sides. They both are great climbers and very well liked guys.

This Spring Graham Ratcliffe plans to return to clean up both the South Col and the Western Cwn. He tells EverestNews.com,  " we hope to be going in on a Lhotse permit to stop any Temptation (at the Everest Summit)."

Now there is a truthful man ...

He is seeking Corporate Sponsors. Check out his web site:



Daily News: 12/9/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 2000 Expeditions

Byron Smith is returning to Everest


EverestNews.com discussed with Byron today his planned 2000 Everest expedition. Some facts you might be interested in: He plans on 8 news updates a day, for  5 minutes each, over a 3 month period.

EverestNews.com plans on working with Byron and several other expeditions for Everest Spring 2000...

Check out his new site for more:



Daily News: 12/8/99 Report

  • Everest Winter Expeditions

15 climbers have reached the Summit of Everest in Winter, however, all by the Nepal side of the mountain. No climber has reached the Summit by the North side in winter ever in the winter. Expeditions from Poland, Japan, and South Korea have reached the summit in winter, via routes in Nepal.

Very few expeditions has ever even attempted the Summit from the north during the winter.

Robert Anderson, from the United States is presently attempting Everest from the North via Tibet. Robert is well liked by many climbers and has attempted Everest seven times (since 1985) but has not reached the top yet.  Robert is once again attempting a very difficult climb. His changes for success is very low. Robert has two Sherpa climbers which him. The names and backgrounds of which EverestNews.com has been unable to obtain.

As far as other expeditions, EverestNews.com knows of no other expeditions this winter. Several were discussed, but as far as we know, no other climbers has left for the mountain.

Since the heavy snowfall, probably a very wise move...

Daily News: 12/7/99 Report

  • K2 News.com

www.k2news.com Summit list has been "completed". All K2 Summits to date are listed.

  • EverestNews.com hopes to list all Everest summits sometime in 2000.
  • Coming Soon: Everest Winter Expeditions/attempts...
  • Graham's New novel is available For Sale in manuscript digital form on www.k2news.com Available Now !!!  The first orders of "covers" receive a signed numbered cover while supplies last.

Daily News: 12/6/99 Report

  • Nepal Spring News:

Nepal’s two busiest airstrip to be closed

The Government of Nepal has decided to close down the airports at Lukla and Jomsom for repair. Starting from May next year it will take 14 months and more for the renovations, extension and tarring of runway, construction of terminals and parking space at these airports.

May, however, is the peak mountaineering and trekking season and the closure of these airports will of course hamper the tourism industry of Nepal. Trekking operators say that their tours have been booked in advance to celebrate the new millennium and will be seriously affected by the closing down of the two busiest airports in the country. Moreover it is also going to effect the Sports Year 2001 and Destination Nepal Year 2002, claims the tourism entrepreneurs of Nepal.

Aviation officials claim that the airport will open for two and half months from October when the tourist flow increases. They also say that with another parallel runway, the flights will not stop but the experts and technicians state that this will not be a practical alternative.

During the tourist season, more than 30 planes land daily at Lukla airport and at least six flight operate during the off season. At Jomsom airport 12-15 planes land every day and 2-4 planes even during the off season.

Reported by Himalaya Center, Kathmandu / Nepal.

Daily News: 12/4/99 Report

  • Autumn Everest 99: Spanish Expedition, A Thank You to all of you that sent messages to the Spanish Expedition form the Expedition Leader.

It is not demagoguery to write on the topic of receiving messages from beloved friends. The affection felt grew during the expedition. Although we did not know many of you personally, I can assure to you that with your
messages you, alone, made it possible to maintain the moral of the troops. Imagine the scene: Nine people on their own, hoping to work a mountain that is hidden to us, almost fleeing from us behind a snow curtain that falls tamely and that is beautiful -- and heartless. The routine and the inability to do anything sunk the expedition members into the blackest of emptiness.
It is cold and the hours advance with a slowness that is incomprehensible to your thoughts or desires. But, due to wonders of technology, the connection to Internet via satellite breaks our isolation! In just a few moments, the
messages received bring a rich variety of commentaries and opinions, jokes and gadgets, news and trivialities, prose and intermingled verse, and manifestations of contained desires of people to those who had liked to live our adventure. Reading the messages helps us forget our black thoughts and makes us feel important and know that what we are doing is interesting to somebody. When leaving our dining room towards the tents that we used to sleep, shaking in the irregularities of the glacier, until it appears some star that you do a wink to us of complicity. The night will become more bearable. 

The Expedition SAMUEL RUBIO EVEREST'99 of Castilla and Leon has finalized but they left many tracks and now, after the necessary rest, all have been
rejuvenated and the worst moments are even thought as beautiful. My gratefulness, like that of all the members of the Expedition, for the excellent help you provided is uncountable. To think of all that we have
been through on the glaciers of Everest, as much as we physically lived the adventure, you followed it from your houses.  We do not say good bye to you rather, "Until next time". A strong hug, Isidoro

  • Q&A Mallory Questions for Graham Hoyland, as he answers your Mallory Questions and others... On EverestNews.com You ask the Questions. Submit to everestnews2004@adelphia.net

Daily News: 12/3/99 Report

  • Winter Nepal Expeditions

The Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation has granted permission to 8 teams for carrying out mountaineering expeditions on 2 different mountains from 4 different countries of the world during the Winter Season (1st Dec. to 15 Feb.) 1999/2000. Out of 8 teams 3 teams are permitted to climb Mt. Manaslu & 5 teams to Mt. Ama Dablam.


Expedition Team

Name of the Peak & Height

Ascent Route

Name of the Leader




1999 American T-3 Ama Dableam Exp' 1999/2000 Winter

Ama Dablam (6812m)


Mr. Alan Kerney




1999 American Ama Dablam Exp' USA

Ama Dablam (6812m)


Ms. Cathy Ann Taylor




Winter Ama Dablam II Exp'. USA

Ama Dablam (6812m)


Ms. Melissa Kade




1999 PMG Ama Dablam Winter Exp'.

Ama Dablam (6812m)


Mr. James M. Williams




Winter' 99 Ama Dablam Exp'. UK

Ama Dablam (6812m)


Mr. Henry B. Todd

G. Britain



Sapporo Alpine Associations Manaslu Exp.

Manaslu (8163m)


Mr. Koichi Ezaki




Danish Manaslu Expedition' 99

Manaslu (8163m)


Mr. Michael Stryno




Japan Gunma Winter Mt. Manaslu Exp.

Manaslu (8163m)

East Face

Mr. Hideji Nazuka



Source: Reported by Himalaya Center, Kathmandu / Nepal.

Daily News: 12/2/99 Report

  • Q&A Mallory Questions for Graham Hoyland, as he answers your Mallory Questions and others... On EverestNews.com You ask the Questions. Submit to everestnews2004@adelphia.net Graham Hoyland, as he answers your Mallory Questions and others... On EverestNews.com You ask the Questions. Submit to everestnews2004@adelphia.net Graham Hoyland, as he answers your Mallory Questions and others... On EverestNews.com You ask the Questions. Submit to everestnews2004@adelphia.net

    More answers ...

Q.) Is the American film of the Mallory and Irvine research expedition different from the BBC documentary and if so will it be shown in the UK?

A.) [Graham Hoyland]  This film will be subtly different, coming as it does from a channel with a more scientific slant. It won't be shown in Britain, just as the BBC version won't be shown in the States. It's a shame, as the audiences would presumably like to see both versions. 

Q.) Will you or any members of the 1999 team be returning to look for Irvine?

A.) [Graham Hoyland]  I would love to return, but I would have to raise $35,000 to get there. My ambition is to retrieve my great-uncle's camera and give Sandy Irvine a decent burial.

EverestNews.com Editors Note: You can support Graham by purchasing his novel on www.k2news.com Graham receives almost all the revenue.

Q.) Who owns the artifacts taken from Mallory's body?

A.) [Graham Hoyland]  As far as I know the family own them, and the family will be getting them back.

Q.) Have you spoken to Brian Blessed about the discovery of Mallory's body and how did he react?

A.)  [Graham Hoyland]  I've written to Brian, but haven't  heard back yet.

Q.) Graham: How difficult is the NE shoulder with hobnailed shoes instead of crampons?

A.) [Graham Hoyland]  I assume you mean the grip afforded by nails versus spikes. The dangers of the snow-covered sloping rock slabs of the North East shoulder must have been even greater with those short tricouni nails- and may well have allowed the fatal slip. But have you also considered the difficulties of unfreezing your frozen leather boots over a spirit stove at 8000 meters? I think plastic boots are the single greatest advance we've made since 1924- and even now it can take you half an hour of struggle to get your boots and crampons on at great altitudes. 

Q.) Also they wore woolen clothing instead of a down filled duvet as at least one of the climbers on that expedition did.  Could Mallory and Irvine been warm enough to get any higher than 27,000 feet?

A.) [Graham Hoyland]  Funnily enough, when you're exerting yourself you don't seem to suffer too much from the cold up there, and remember it was well into June. I can't see why they couldn't have gone to the summit with what they were wearing. But when they stopped climbing they would surely have felt cold almost immediately. And of course the chances of surviving a night without shelter are just about nil. 


Daily News: 12/1/99 Report

  • News from our friends in Greece, with some interesting links !

Rock climbing info for Kalymnos on the web, at  the official site of Kalymnos island  www.kalymnos-isl.gr/climb 

Kalymnos 2000

Paneuropean Climbers’ Meeting

2 – 8 October 2000

Organized by EOS Acharnes and the Municipality of Kalymnos

With the support of the Greek mountaineering & Rock climbing Federation

 Dear friends,

We invite you to the paneuropean climbers’ meeting “Kalymnos 2000” from the 2nd to 8th October 2000. It will be a novel event, a meeting for alternative athletics and culture, on a forgotten border island of Greece.

Kalymnos, the sponge fishers’ island, is the epicentre of rock-climbing among the Greek islands, and is rapidly developing to become one of Europe’s most important climbing fields.

An island paradise for climbers, it was discovered recently by the well-known Italians, Andrea di Bari and Andrea Gallo. After the publication of articles in magazines of international fame “Alp”, “Rotpunk” & “Vertical” by Andrea Gallo and J. P. Tauvron, a considerable number of Germans and Austrians as well as Italians now visit the island.

The rock formations are of excellent quality, forming a field for athletic rock-climbing of amazing possibilities.

There are already one hundred and fifty safe sport climbing routes on the climbing fields, and new ones are being added every day.

The Mayor of Kalymnos, Demetrios Diakomichales, has embraced the efforts recognizing the opportunities offered to the island, and has promised the Municipality’s full aid in everything necessary for the organization of the climbing fields.

The Municipality of Kalymnos, the Mountain Climbing Club of Acharnes, and mountain climbing organizations from all over Europe are co-operating in the organization of a paneuropean rock-climbing meeting in Kalymnos the first week of October.

The event has the ambition of surpassing just an athletic meeting to become a cultural event with great meaning for the cultural and financial development of a border island like Kalymnos.

Aims of the meeting are as follows:

  • The development of friendship and co-operation among European climbers
  • The opening of new climbing routes (sponsors for the free disposition of bolts are required)
  • The informing of the local population about mountain climbing and rock-climbing.
  • The cultural and touristic promotion of the island through rock-climbing.

At the same time as the meeting of the rock-climbers, on the weekend of 7th-8th October, mountain hikers, locals and all over Greek, will go round the dense network of mountain paths which exists, with the continuous views of the Aegean.

The program includes – what else – rock-climbing from the morning to the evening, while after 6 o’clock, various events will be taking place in Pothia, the island capital.

In co-operation with the hotel owners of Kalymnos, a special packet price for the whole period has been arranged for rock climbing participants.

Information and declarations of participation to:

The Hellenic Alpine Club of Acharnes,

126, Philadelphias Street,

13671 Acharnes.

Tel. +30 1 2461528, 2404100

Fax. -+30 1 2469777

E-mail. eosa@ath.forthnet.gr eosa@ath.forthnet.gr eosa@ath.forthnet.gr

In charge of rock-climbing

Aris Theodoropoulos, Mountain Guide, at aritheo@otenet.gr

Rock climbing info for Kalymnos on the web, at www.kalymnos-isl.gr/climb

URL "Greece Rock climbing info" www.oreivatein.com/climb 

URL "Climbing in Greece"  www.center.gr/climb

  • Q&A Mallory Questions for Graham Hoyland, as he answers your Mallory Questions and others... On EverestNews.com You ask the Questions. Submit to everestnews2004@adelphia.net

More answers on Wednesday ...

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