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Martine's Dispatches
Martine's Route Coverage of Martine Larroque's Everest 2002 Expedition

climbing for
May 6th: After the hard days at camp 2 with a 180 km wind, knocking at my tent; looking at the roof of my tent for 10 hours in below 17 degrees Celsius, I decided to head up to base camp. What a surprise to see in the Swiss tent, my friend from Dubai, Farzane having a cup of tea with Philippe the Doctor. She spent a night in my tent because poor Farzane was gasping for air. She couldn't sleep. The next day her condition did not ameliorate and we decided to go down to the valley as soon as possible. We spend a night at Gorak Shep and the next day stop at Dingboche where we met Stephan, the leader of the Swiss expedition, Jean Troillet, and Yves Lambert.  We had a great time all together. The next day Farzane decided to go back down, the Swiss back to base camp and I decided to spend more time in the village called Pheriche, get some more thick air, more food, good rest and a great shower. Sean, Randy, and Bruno were resting in the same lodge. Sean, a two time cancer survivor, is also climbing on his own with two Sherpas with one and half lungs. I met Sean at camp 2 and was amazed how strong he is. We decided to follow each other on summit day in order to help each other in case of...  Randy, which is part of the expedition with Henry Todd, is trying to recover his finger from the frostbite he received at Camp 3. Bruno, the French-Canadian, with the best sense of humor of everyone at base camp, accompanied me back to base camp. He is trying to summit with his son Jason. Back at base camp the weather is badly snowing. My Sherpas are between camp 3 and 4 preparing camps; we just need now to be patient and wait for the window for the summit. Sometimes the wait is so long and we tend to get really bored and depressed. It is during these moments that we need to be the strongest. 

May 8th: Martine just called to say that her plans are to attempt the full climb by tomorrow. She will leave base Camp to Camp 2, spend a night or two there, and carry on to Camp 3, Camp the summit, hoping to make it around May 13th. Let's not forget that this depends on the weather which is fine so far but very windy as the climbers go higher and higher. Martine is fully prepared for the ascent, her moral is great.


Martine Larroque and American Sean Swarner

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