LIST FOR ACONCAGUA
Please note: This online gear list is only
[ ] Ice Axe w/Leash. General mountaineering
tool. Sizing is important: under 5'7" use a
60cm tool; 5'7"- 6'1" use a 65cm tool;
over 6'1" use a 70cm tool. (Too short is
preferable to too long). Please no rubberized grips
on the shaft of the ice axe. Make sure that you have
a leash that is designed for use on a glacier axe.
Please no technical leashes designed for technical
ice climbing-they are too short, heavy, and not
versatile. Suggested: SMC Himalayan or Charlet Moser
Vanois or Grivel Pamir.
[ ] Adjustable Ski/Trekking Poles. 3 Sections
are the most versatile. Suggested: Leki, Life Link,
[ ] Lightweight Underwear. 2 pair tops &
bottoms, Capilene, other synthetic or wool. No
Cotton. Lightweight is preferable as it is more
versatile (worn single in warmer conditions and
double layer for colder). Zip-T-neck tops allow more
ventilation options. One set of white for intense
sunny days and one pair of dark for faster drying
gives the most versatility. Suggested: North Face
Micronamics, Marmot DriClime, or Patagonia Capilene.
Additional suggestions for women: Patagonia Capilita
Trunks and Shaka Bra.
[ ] Expedition Weight Underwear Top.
Expedition weight Capilene. A fleece vest may also
[ ] Fleece or Synthetic Jacket. Mid-Heavyweight
Fleece (Polartec 200-300). A full-zip version is
easier to put on and has better ventilation than a
pullover. Suggested: Fleece - North Face Denali,
Patagonia R-3. Synthetic - Patagonia Puff Ball or
Mt. Hardwear Chugach
[ ] Fleece or Synthetic Pants.
Light-Mid-weight pile (Polartec 100-200) with full
separating side zippers (This is vitally important
for ventilation and for the safety and ease of
dressing up or down when conditions change in the
middle of a climb). Suggested: North Face,
Patagonia, Outdoor Research.
[ ] Down Parka. (Expedition Weight, must be
fully baffled, have insulated hood, and go below the
waist) Suggested: North Face Baltoro, Mt. Hardwear
Absolute Zero, Marmot 8000 meter, Feathered Friends
[ ] Down or synthetic Pants. To fit over
insulation layers. Outer shell must be windproof.
Suggested: Down - Feathered Friends Helios or
Volant. Synthetic - Mt. Hardware Chugach, Patagonia
[ ] Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with
hood. For the jacket we highly recommend a long
front zipper, a roomy rather than snug fit and
underarm zips which go well below the armpit. We
also require full separating side zippers on the
pants. Suggested: North Face, Outdoor Research,
MITTS & GLOVES
[ ] 2 Pair Synthetic Gloves. Bunting or
fleece gloves which will fit comfortably inside
mitts. A heavier fleece will do a better job of
keeping hands warmer when wet than lighter
polypropylene or Capilene. Suggested: Patagonia Exp.
weight or Bunting glove.
[ ] Outdoor Research Pro Modular Mitts w/ double
liners. This brand of warm mittens with Gore-Tex
separate overshells are required. Please contact
office if you cannot find this item in your area.
[ ] Light hiking boots or trekking shoes. For
day hikes and trek to Base Camp. The trail to Base
Camp is rocky and rough. Light weight, high comfort,
plenty of room in the toe bed, and good support
should be stressed here. Suggested: Garmont, Lowa,
Scarpa, Raichle, La Sportiva.
[ ] Teva Sports sandals. For river crossings.
[ ] Double plastic climbing boots. (Aveolite
liners are optional but highly recommended). Good
quality plastic shells with inner boots Avoid tight
fit with heavy socks. Suggested: Koflach Degree or
Artis Expedition, Scarpa Invernos, or Lowa Civetta,
Everest One Sports.
[ ] Crampons. With flat rather than
"cookie cutter" frame rails. Your crampons
should be steel, not aluminum for strength and
durability. Avoid anti-balling plates which are
heavy and are useful only in very specific snow
conditions. A combination heel bail/toe strap is a
better system than a heel and toe bail system.
Suggested: Charlet Moser Super 12 Rapidfix Lanieres,
Grivel G12 New-Matic, or Black Diamond Sabertooths.
[ ] Gaiters. Expedition gaiters with cordura
on the inside. Suggested: Outdoor Research
Expedition Crocodiles. Not needed with Everest One
[ ] Wool or Pile Socks. 3 pair heavyweight
wool or synthetic socks (wool is warmer) to be worn
over the liner socks. When layering socks, check fit
over feet and inside boots. Remember to keep one
fresh, dry pair of socks available at all times. It
is very important to buy new socks regularly as they
lose their cushioning over time. Suggested:
Smartwool, Bridgedale, Thorlo, Patagonia. Socks with
padded shins are especially nice with plastic boots.
[ ] Liner Socks. 3 pair of smooth thin wool,
nylon or Capilene to be worn next to the skin. This
reduces the incidence of blisters and hot-spots and
makes the outer sock last longer before needing to
be changed. They should fit well with your
[ ] Baseball Cap or other Sun Hat. One with a
good visor to shade the nose and eyes. Synthetic
[ ] 2 Bandanas. To shade the neck.
[ ] Wool or pile ski hat.
[ ] Balaclava. 1 lightweight. Suggested:
North Face or Patagonia.
[ ] Neck Gaiter. Optional but recommended for
added neck & head warmth at the higher camps.
[ ] Headlamp. (spare bulbs & batteries).
Suggested: Petzl Zoom. No Halogen bulbs.
[ ] Glacier glasses with Side Covers. 100%
UV, IR, high quality optical lenses designed for
mountain use, must have side covers, leashes, and a
nose guard is particularly helpful (Chums MelaNoNo
is a good brand). No more than 8% light
transmission. Suggested: Bolle, Bucci, Julbo Round
"Arc"or Cebe. If you wear contact lenses
we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses-it is a
good idea to have these with "photo-gray"
or equivalent light-sensitive material so they can
double as emergency sunglasses. If you wear glasses
we recommend prescription glacier glasses (gray or
amber). Talk to your eye care professional to find
out where prescription glacier glasses are
available. Regular sunglasses are not dark enough
and do not provide any side protection from the sun.
For prescription Glacier Glasses, contact Black
Diamond (801) 278-5533 or Opticus www.opticusinc.com
[ ] Backpack. Internal frame pack expandable
to 6,000 cubic inches. Keep it simple and light,
avoid unnecessary zippers, etc which add weight.
Suggested: North Face, Kelty, Gregory, Dana Designs
Terraplane or Astralplane
[ ] Daypack. (Optional but recommended).
Small summit pack approx. 2,500cu. in for trek in.
[ ] Sleeping bag. Rated to at least -10oF. If
you sleep cold, consider a -20oF bag. Goose down
preferred over synthetic for bulk & weight. If
well-cared-for a down bag will last much longer than
a synthetic bag. Your bag needs to be long enough
that your feet are not pressing out the foot box
which will make you colder. It should be roomy
enough for comfortable sleeping but snug enough for
efficient heat retention.
[ ] Compression Stuff Sacks. (Highly
recommended but optional) Work very well for
reducing volume Especially for sleeping bags and
bulky down clothing.
[ ] One Therma-Rest pad. One 3/4 or full
length Therma-Rest pad. If you are over 6' a long is
recommended. Make sure to include a valve stem and
patch repair kit for your Therma-Rest. Suggested:
Cascade Designs Therma-Rest Guide Light model
[ ] One Closed-Cell foam pad. Full length
closed cell is recommended. Suggested: Cascade
[ ] Swiss Army Knife. Medium size. Keep it
simple and light. Suggested: Swiss Army Super
[ ] Sunscreen. SPF 40 or better, 2 small tubes.
Please note: Sunscreen older than 6 months loses
half of its SPF rating, make sure that you have new
sunscreen. Suggested: Dermatone or AloeGator.
[ ] Lipscreen. SPF 40 or better, at least 2
sticks. Make sure your lipscreen is new.
Suggested: Dermatone or Banana Boat.
[ ] Water Bottles: 2.5 liters minimum capacity.
Two 1 liter & One .5 liter wide-mouth. No
water bags or bladder systems, they freeze on summit
[ ] Pee Bottle (1 Liter). Large mouth. Make
sure the bottle is clearly marked, "Pee
[ ] Pee Funnel (for women). It is a good idea to
practice, practice, practice. Suggested: Freshette.
[ ] Small Personal First-Aid Kit. (Simple and
Light) Ear plugs, Aspirin, Moleskin, molefoam,
waterproof first-aid tape, athletic tape, Band-Aids,
[ ] Cooking Gear:
Cup: 16oz. plastic insulated mug with snap-on
lid (retains heat well and is spill-resistant in the
tent). Some prefer a non-insulated mug for warming
Spoon: Good quality tough plastic (lexan).
Bowl: Deep plastic with 2-3 cup capacity with
[ ] Large duffel bag w/ lock. Heavy Cordura
for transporting all gear. Suggested: Eagle Creek
[ ] Smaller Duffel w/lock. (To store excess
gear in hotel)
[ ] 4 Trash Compactor bags. To line stuff
sacks to keep gear dry & one large enough to
line pack. Trash Compactor bags are made from a
[ ] Travel clothes. In Mendoza: It is hot, so
shorts and t-shirts etc. work well. Trek: Very
lightweight trekking pants and long sleeve shirts to
protect from sun & dust while staying cool.
[ ] Toiletry Bag. Nothing but the basics:
Toothpaste, Toothbrush, Baby Wipes. Toilet paper is
[ ] 1-2 Bottles of Water Purification tablets.
For water purification. Filters are too heavy and
clog quickly with silt. Suggested Iodine or AquaMira
[ ] Purell Hand Sanitizer. Other alcohol
based hand cleaners also work well.
[ ] Camera Gear. We recommend small instant
or point and shoot cameras. Disposable cameras work
great. For the best pictures bring slow speed film,
For Polish Direct climb only:
[ ] Climbing helmet. Must be adjustable to
fit with or without balaclava hat on. Suggested:
Petzl Ecrin Roc.
[ ] North Wall Hammer w/leash. Short
(40-55cm) tool. Suggested: Black Diamond Shrike.
[ ] Alpine climbing harness. Harness should
fit over all clothing, have gear loops, adjustable
leg loops and be reasonably comfortable to hang
suspended in. Make sure you can get into the harness
without having to step through any part of it.
Suggested: Black Diamond Bod Harness.
[ ] Locking carabiners. 2 pear-shaped
[ ] Standard carabiners. 2 standard ovals.
[ ] Insulated Supergaiters. (This gaiter
covers the entire boot but leaves the sole exposed.
If using Everest One Sport boots, supergaiters are
not needed.) Suggested: Wild Country or Climb High