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Dhaulagiri Spring 98

Special Report on the three Everest climbers, Guy Cotter, Ed Viesturs & Veikka Gustafsson, that are climbing Dhaulagiri Spring 98.


EXPEDITION Update : Guy Cotter, Ed Viesturs & Veikka Gustafsson leave Dhaulagiri base camp on May 8 for their summit attempt on the 8167 m peak, they hope to summit on May 10.

Update 5/7/98: Guy Cotter has managed to get a message out as to how the expedition is coming along. An the result so far is very nicely thanks ! Three acclimatization trips have been completed on the mountain and the intrepid three are now waiting and watching the weather to decide when to start their summit attempt.    

On the third trip to Camp III height, they spent two nights at Camp I on April 29 and 30 while a storm lashed the Dhaulagiri Himal. They were then able to move up to Camp II for three nights which is a snowcave whilst moving gear to Camp III and acclimatizing, and were back to base camp by the evening of May 5.

A tent was missing from the Camp III stash once they arrived there most recently - it appeared that it had been knocked away down the hill if the tracks going through the stash were anything to go by ! The Basque team had been making a summit attempt and may have blundered through the equipment on their way down, never mind ! The Basques came within 100 m of the summit and no one else has summitted so far, although all 5 teams now remaining in base camp are poised to do so. 

Plans are to possibly depart on May 8 for a summit attempt on May 10. We will have to wait until they get back down to receive any news of the climb though. Over and out from AC base Wanaka NZ. 


EXPEDITION Update : Guy Cotter, Ed Viesturs & Veikka Gustafsson leave  Dhaulagiri base camp on May 12 for their summit attempt on the 8167 m peak, they hope to summit on May 14 - visit  the ADVENTURE CONSULTANTS LIMITED - on our links page for updates.


Update re. Guy Cotter, Veikka Gustafsson & Ed Viesturs on the Adventure Consultants Dhaulagiri Expedition 1998

News in from western Nepal indicates that summit attempts on Dhaulagiri have been delayed because of storms affecting the region. A lightening storm kept all in their tents on Friday May 8 which was described as 'like a light bulb being turned on and off in your tent all night - Veikka was particularly scared !' and three more days were spent waiting at base camp. Entertainment to while away the time included the arrival of beer by a trusty porter, vege rolls and pancakes with cream and jam. Monday May 5 was another stormy day delaying things further but all three climbers left base camp finally on Tuesday May 6 to start their summit attempt. No one has summitted so far this season due to the recent storms and avoiding the mountain on the weekend had allowed the avalanche cycle to settle down, other teams who had been stuck at their high camps in the storms have returned to base camp over the past few days.

Guy Cotter turned around and returned to base camp on Tuesday after experiencing severe problems with his stomach. He has decided not to return back up the mountain on this expedition. He is philosophical about the retreat and thought it expedient to descend and listen to his body, this being the first time he has turned back on an 8000er due to his own health. Veikka and Ed continued and reached Camp II, and then on to Camp III on Wednesday May 13 in preparation for a summit attempt on Thursday May 14. The weather is amazingly fine and it is reportedly calm up high.

Saturday 5/17/98: After waiting two days for the weather to clear enough to allow a summit attempt, Veikka Gustafsson and Ed Viesturs went for the summit in the early hours of Saturday morning Nepal Time. They encountered deep drifted snow on a huge unfriendly slope so called it off. Hence, they retreated back down on Saturday afternoon and will now leave for civilization, the expedition and summit attempts are over. Porters arrive today and then they along with Guy Cotter can start the trek to Jomsom for the flight to Pokhara and then onto Kathmandu by road. Source: ADVENTURE CONSULTANTS LIMITED

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