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 Daily News: 4/14/2000 Report

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories.  Receiving Reports from over 25 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.

  • Everest Spring 2000: Adventure Consultants Featured Expedition on EverestNews.com

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Adventure Consultants in Spring 2000.  Adventure Consultants is a world renowned expedition climbing company with a legacy of ascents to the more remote and wild peaks on our planet. Quality service, complete commitment and success are the hallmarks of Adventure Consultants, as are Guy Cotter and the qualified guides and staff who are the driving force behind Adventure Consultants’ expeditions. http://www.adventure.co.nz 

Dispatch April 13th from Everest Base Camp: 

Guy Cotter reports in from the Adventure Consultants Everest Base Camp:

"After a brief snow shower last night a clear dawn saw David, Andy and Yuki depart for the notorious Khumbu icefall for the first time, heralding the beginning of their Mt Everest ascent. After almost one month in the country acclimatizing and setting up the base camp the team is now coming to terms with the actual ascent which is the culmination of over a year of planning and preparation. Yukimitsu has been climbing Mt Fuji in Japan once a week in difficult winter conditions and Andy has been running and weight training regularly. For both this has been a concerted effort to keep in condition after having been on Cho Oyu (8201m) last October/November. Adventure Consultants were the only successful guiding operation on Cho Oyu in the Post Monsoon as all the other commercial teams had insufficient confidence to deal with the difficult snow conditions. AC guides Jim Litch and Dean Staples being snow safety experts assessed the conditions well and summited with the group whilst all the other teams arrived back into Kathmandu! 

10:45am.... David Hiddleston has just radioed in from the top of the icefall 5 hours after leaving BC. "We are the top of the icefall, the weather is good and we are going to head back down to base camp now" When asked about the condition of the climbing group he said 'Yuki is going very strong and racing across the ladders. Andy is doing well also but may have a bit of a cold, so not feeling 100%" 

My response from the warmth of the BC communication tent! (with a strong cup of Venus coffee in hand) "Very good Dave, it sounds like you are all doing well. 5 hours to the top of the icefall on the first journey up is quite a good time so well done all of you, I'll have a brew on for you when you get down so give us a call when you get close to the bottom" "Good one Guy (Dave responds) talk to you soon, out" 

Other news, the trekking group of Jessica, Peter, Cameron & Charlie (Dan & Cherry departed from Khumjung earlier) left today for Pheriche having had three nights as guests of the expedition team. In the words of Peter Hay, "This has been a real eye opener for me seeing how it all operates and how much work goes into an Everest ascent. The staff here have been great and I'd certainly recommend that other people join your team for treks or climbs, the attention to quality is impressive!" 

So there we have it, the climb has begun, more updates coming..."

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe in Spring 2000. Jagged Globe was founded by Steve Bell. Steve has more than 20 years of mountaineering experience including winter ascents of the north faces of the Eiger and Matterhorn. He claims "Britain's first guided expedition to an 8,000m peak and was the first Briton to lead clients to the summit of Everest." He has climbed all of the continental summits and is a fully qualified UIAGM mountain guide. Steve and Jagged Globe are known as one of the best guiding companies in the world. 

This year's expedition will be lead by Australian guide, Andrew Lock (having been on two previous Everest expeditions and reached the Summit of K2), supported by Tim Bird. Tim has led expeditions for Jagged Globe for many years including successful trips to Elbrus, Stok Kangri, Mera and Island Peak, Aconcagua and Gasherbrum II. A highly regarded professional instructor (MIC), Tim directs their Scottish Winter Courses, and provides their UK technical support for training and advice to all their group expeditions licensed through the Adventure Activities Licensing Authority. They are using the same Sherpa team as last year. This is another international team, comprising:  Jack Culley (UK), Joe Wolf (USA), Jeff Magee (UK), David Spencer (UK), Curt Peterson (USA), Timothy Gregg (USA) , Paul Giorgio (USA). 

Dispatch Four: The seventh of April saw the arrival of the whole team at base camp (BC 5350m) This included the arrival of Andrew Lock, the Team Leader. Andrew had been delayed due to unavoidable hold ups in Antarctica, something familiar to several of the other team members! Andrew has been with us for one week now, and brings with him a great breath and depth of experience including; two previous Everest attempts and six other 8000m summits. Under Andrew's competent leadership the team has prepared for and completed phase one of our acclimatization plan. Phase one included:

1. Equipment checks and fix rope practice 

2. A short excursion into the ice fall to practice crossing the infamous ladders that span the crevasses 

3. An acclimatization load carry to Camp 1 and return to BC (climb high and sleep low!) The team is now on its second rest day after completing this first phase, and is preparing for phase two. Tomorrow morning the 13 April we plan to leave BC at am to spend two nights at camp 1 with an acclimatization trip to camp 2 between the nights. The BC communications systems are just coming through the normal teething problems associated with high tech equipment in adverse conditions, so we hope to keep family and friends updated on our return from phase two. The team are all safe and well and apart from small discomforts that life above 5000m brings are all focused on the stepping stones to climb the Mountain.

Tim Bird Deputy Team Leader 

  • Canadian Everest Expedition 2000:

Current Status: Ben Webster's team has been at base camp for the last week or so and they're making ascents to Camp 1 to get acclimatized. They've found the icefall crowded, with long waits at some ladders. Their reporter also found Canadian Gabriel Filippi.

Khumbu Ice Fall: Exhausted and leaning heavily on walking sticks, the CEE 2000 team made it back down from Camp 1 yesterday.

You can get full details on the Canadians at the Canadian Everest Expedition 2000's official website -- http://www.canoe.ca/Everest/home.html

  • Everest Spring 2000: Byron Smith

Current Status: Even at Basecamp the Everest 2000 team is witnessing some of the challenges of Everest. Thursday morning an avalanche rumbled nearby sending a snow plume about 750 meters wide down the side of the mountain. Although it was on the outskirts of Basecamp, some snow residue will blow in to camp.

Check his diary entry for more http://cbc.ca/everest2000/

  • Everest North Side: Rough Translation

Dispatch: [Bernard] We arrived at Lhasa on the road reserved at the trucks. And the sight of Potala, the view was really sad, one day dull, with ugly buildings and a dirty and polluted river. We know well that Potala is splendid up close, but our first sight from afar was far from the romantic image which I had in my sensory banks of reference. The gang of Jipi (group of trek of Jean-Pierre Danvoye) arrived before yesterday and they visited the monasteries of Drepung, Ganden, Jokang and the palate of Potala.

Check them out for some nice pictures and video: http://www.everestmillenium.qc.ca/jdb.asp for reports in French, video and more.

  • Andalucia Everest Expedition leader: MANUEL GONZALEZ DIAZ

Dispatch: Tomorrow we will install CII, located in a well-known zone as " the valley of silence ", at a height of 6400 meters, the foot of the great wall of the flank of the Lhotse. This camp II, will make the functions of field bases (camps) advanced, with the purpose of obtaining to better acclimatization and to position for the attack at the summit. The equipment has been divided into groups. In next the three days, all climbers will arrive to this point. At least one week will be required o complete the second cycle of acclimatization anticipated in the logistic general of the scaling (climbing)...

EverestNews.com will publish the Andalucia reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures, and more will be on the http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm site.

  • Alan Hinkes leaves for Kangchenjunga

Kathmandu 4/12/2000: Alan Hinkes left Kathmandu this morning by Nepal Airlines to Biratnagar, a lowland terai town of Nepal, to start his walk-in to Kangchenjunga Base Camp. Alan will fly tomorrow morning to Taplejung, where he will be received by his waiting crew led by his Sherpa Ang Pasang. Alan will spend the night today at Biratnagar, to catch early morning flight to Taplejung tomorrow. Alan hopes to reach Base Camp in 10 days time. 

Earlier Alan drove to the end of Kathmandu City at a place called Chovar to do a Tree Plantation, a sapling of plum, one of Alan's favorite fruit. The plantation is hoped to bring some awareness among the villagers about environment and the benefit of greening their surroundings.

Pictures

Reported by Himalaya Center Kathmandu 

  • Annapurna Spring 2000: 

EverestNews.com will follow the attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000 Expedition": We think you will find these daily reports very interesting. Go to their site for the pictures and dispatches in Spanish. Their web site:  www.interofer.es/annapurna2000 with reports in Spanish, Pictures and more !

Update 4/11/2000: The expedition reached 5100 meters, point of installation of Camp 1. Cold and windy (the temperature oscillates between the 10 and -4 Cs).  

Dr Josep Antoni, Paschal, the Catalan Jep Mud Walls and the Turk Ugar, arrived today at 5100 meters. They returned later to the base camp to rest. Xavi Aryan has not been able to accompany to the group. The group will rest in the morning. Sherpas will celebrate, in the camps, the religious ceremonies in which "the aid to the Gods will be requested".

Update 4/12/2000: The expedition has finally been able today to reunite in the camping bases with all the material of the expedition and to dedicate the day to the religious ceremony celebrated by the Sherpas. On Tuesday the acclimatization process was started, a necessary step before confronting the highest part of the mountain. Now the expedition has all its climbers and equipment at base camp. 

Update 4/13/2000: Dr Josep Mighty Antoni, leader of the expedition, and his companions: Xavier Aryan, Paschal Borja, Iosu Feijjo, Jep Tapias and Ugur spent the night at 5000 meters of altitude, with the objective tomorrow to reach the place of installation of Camp II at about 6000 meters of altitude. Like in previous days the day cleared. Then it snowed ! The storm did not affect the ascent. 

EverestNews.com has added a Spring 2000 Annapurna Page where EverestNews.com will report News on this expedition and other Annapurna News. 

  • Cho Oyu

Our friends at Risk have some Cho Oyu News. Check them out !

  • Recent News

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 in search of the camera and Irvine. EverestNews.com

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Mountain Madness for Everest Spring 2000

List of Expeditions who have paid for their permits in Nepal

In search of Mike Matthews' Body

Reinhold Messner latest adventure

The Quest for 14

Death on the way to Everest continued

Death on the way to Everest

EverestNews.com has learned a 14 year boy plans to attempt the Summit of Everest in Spring 2000

Juan Oiarzabal, "To the Edge of The Impossible" or AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE in Spanish: Expedition to recreate the ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine of Everest. This expedition is already underway.

Summary of Canadian Expeditions on Everest in Spring 2000

Graham Hoyland's Lecture "Unraveling the Mystery of George Mallory" in the Baird Auditorium at the National Museum of Natural History.

Alan Hinkes Q&A

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Adventure Consultants for Everest Spring 2000

Close Does Not Count for Records

ALAN HINKES TARGETS THIRD HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD, KANGCHENJUNGA AS TWELFTH MOUNTAIN ON HIS CHALLENGE TO ACHIEVE BRITISH RECORD

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe for Everest Spring 2000

Spanish Climber to attempt the Messner route on Everest

Change of Guard at the Khumbu Ice Fall

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 in search of the camera and Irvine.

Jochen Hemmleb Q&A Part 7

India climber plans to spend the night on the Summit

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