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 Daily News: 4/15/2000 Report

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories.  Receiving Reports from over 25 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.

  • EverestNews.com has added 7 new pages indexed on the right shared border for You.

The Pages are: 

Mountain Madness featuring Christine Boskoff and Peter Habeler on Everest

Jagged Globe Everest 2000

Adventure Consultants Everest 2000

Mallory & Irvine 2000: Graham and the BBC returns

Kangchenjunga 2000

Annapurna 2000

The Millennium Seven Summits Expedition

EverestNews.com will attempt to update these pages as the news on these mountains and/or expeditions arrives. 

  • Everest North Side

Climbers at Base Camp !

  • Everest South Side

Camp 2 established by some expeditions. Camp 3 being established ! 

Gabriel Filippi has been having problems. Gabriel problems are speculated to be pulmonary edema after spending two cold nights at Camp 2. Gabriel has made it back to base camp with the help of the Andalucia Everest Expedition. The Andalucia Expedition must be wondering if this is a sign or something. Earlier if you were not with us, the Andalucia Everest Expedition attempted to help another climber on the way to base camp. The German climber died. Gabriel apparently is in OK  shape now. No news if he will go back up...

  • A new day and again new information on another Expedition on Everest. The Millennium Seven Summits Expedition lead by Gavin Bate and John Barry join the EverestNew.com team. EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches and photos from this expedition. Please see below for more information on the group and their first two dispatches from Base Camp.

 

  • Millennium Seven Summits Expedition

The Millennium Challenge team will be climbing Everest in an attempt to make the first British ascent in the year 2000. The team of seven is made up of John Barry and Gavin Bate, Andy Salter, Polly Murray , Chris Tiso, George Barlow and Michele Santilhano. There will also be a back-up team of communications experts and cooks as well as the complement of high altitude Sherpas. 

Between the seven summits are the roof of our planet. Each one is a sizeable adventure. To stand on top of each of these mountains in the period of one year. A British record for the Millennium and a Millennium message from the Top of the World - it is a powerful image, and a realistic one.

Gavin Bate http://www.AdventureAlternative.com/7

Gavin Bate
Gavin Bate walked across the Sahara Desert on his own at 21 years of age and has been exploring and mountaineering ever since. From buying ships world-wide for scrap for his father in the Far East he has organized and presented documentaries of expeditions in Iceland, Tibet and Africa as well as an adventure series in Ireland. Gavin runs his own company, Adventure Alternative, and was part of the British team which successfully skied from the summit of Denali in Alaska and recently summitted the 6th highest mountain in the world without bottled oxygen. 
John Barry
John Barry is the man who took the first British woman to the summit of Everest. He is one of Britain's most accomplished and active mountaineers, a man who has been to the worlds highest mountain four times. He has climbed on all the world's big mountain ranges, written books, and presented the BBC series Arctic Challenge. He was Director of Plas y Brenin Outdoor Centre in Wales for seven years and has since been leading expeditions to all corners of the world.

Dispatch: Everest Base Camp, 18,150'

The team is all keeping well. We have been back up to Camp 1 and have spent the night without any problems at 20,000'. Later some of us moved up to Camp 2 (21,500') for a day trip. Andy Salter suffered an attack of Delhi Belly at Camp One which was very unfortunate and one of our Sherpas, Nan Chumbi, had a really bad blister.

Camp Two is pretty empty, with most groups still in the process of putting in loads and storing them under rocks. Our Camp is quite well organized and will be fully stocked and ready in about four days. We are tucked up at the top end of the Western Cwm, right below the daunting Lhotse Face, our next massive obstacle on the way to the South Col. Walking up the Western Cwm is an incredible experience, one of the most incredible valleys in the world with the stunning sheer face of impossible ice of Nuptse on one side; and towering on the other side, the dark triangular peak of Everest jutting into the sky, black and forbidding. It is such a sight that knocks your breath away. The Lhotse Face is quite dry and icy, several thousand feet straight up, with the distinctive saddle shape of the south col etched against the horizon. It is quite clear that the real stuff begins from Camp 2.

We came down to Base Camp quite shattered and spent. Today we are just relaxing and rehydrating. Andy Salter is now completely recovered. It is amazing how exhausted you feel after being up high. We are now going down the valley to relax in Lobuje and climb Pokalde, a trekking peak of 19,600'. This diversion will aid in our training and more importantly allow us a change of scenery. We are in the happy position of being somewhat ahead of ourselves in terms of acclimatisation and logistics. Some teams are yet to make their first move up to Camp One. This means we have the luxury of being able to pop down to lower altitudes, see some green grass and breathe some thicker air ! We plan to be back on Thursday.

It is very cold at Base Camp these days. Last night it snowed. The next trek group is shortly coming out and we are putting in an order for luxuries for them to bring up to us - Stilton cheese, the Sunday Telegraph and so on. Some things in Life are too important to miss  !

Michele would like to say a big hello and thank you to all her supporters in South Africa. News has surfaced that Andy Salter  proposed to Louise as she left Base Camp after her trek in with us. She accepted !

We hope that everyone is keeping well at home, we heard about the drubbing that England got from Scotland in a game of 'unremitting savagery' ( which pleased Chris Tiso no end ) - and we would like to thank everyone for their notes of support and encouragement.

With very best regards from Base Camp,

Gavin Bate 

Second Dispatch: Everest Base Camp 14th April 2000 Greetings from the British Everest Expedition !

From 18,150' on the Khumbu Glacier, the British team are doing very well and enjoying the comforts of Base Camp. This afternoon it is snowing quite heavily and visibility is low - thank God ! sometimes the continual sight of the Khumbu Icefall is enough to drive anyone mad. Already the talk is of "what's the first thing you'll do or eat when you get back home" ! We have just come back from a relaxing week down the valley, climbing the trekking peak of Pokalde and basking in the relative heat of Lobuje ! Fortunately we are in the position to do this, because we have been here since more or less the beginning of April and we have already been up to Camp Two on Mount Everest, and put in a lot of our logistics. We have successfully climbed through the Icefall several times, slept at Camp One and almost all of our gear is sitting at Camp Two. Between ourselves, the big Canadian team, Mountain Madness and Babu Sherpa's lot ( he's the one who is trying for a speed ascent of Everest in 16 hours )we have put in rope to fix the route from Camp 2 to 3. At the moment the Sherpas are within 200 meters of reaching Camp 3 - this heavy snowfall now may well delay things by a day or two. Base Camp is heaving ! There's been a slight problem with the people who are supposed to remove all the faeces from all the Camps ( hardly surprising - would YOU be in a hurry to come up and carry 20 barrels of s*** down the valley ? ). We called SPCC today ( Sagamartha Pollution Control Committee ) and they're sending up a team tomorrow. Otherwise, everyone is settling in and the Base Camp grapevine is alive and well ! It's great fun listening to all the gossip, believe me. To be honest, all the foreign climbers would be best leaving it all to the Sherpas - those guys are heroic. Their strength on the hill is phenomenal, and their patience a real example to everyone. Our plan is to pop up to Camp Two on Monday 17th. We hope to sleep there for a few nights, then do a day trip to Camp Three, come down again and rest at Base Camp. We have a very useful contract with Bracknelll in the UK for the best weather forecasts and on the back of them, we'll then plan to make a summit bid around the beginning of May when the jet streams lift. Given that nobody has suffered any ill-health and that we've had no problems up to Camp Two so far, the team is quietly confident. You have to keep positive - perhaps the hardest thing up here is keeping patient, positive and motivated ! Climbing Everest is not so much about technical ability ( it isn't ) as about keeping healthy and happy and hoping that the lottery of weather comes up in your favour at the right time ! 

To introduce the team quickly - Gavin Bate ( poor sod who organized it all - based in Belfast ), John Barry ( illustrious climbing guide ), Chris Tiso Equipment sponsor, MD of Tiso the Great Outdoor specialists, corporate stormtrooper, Scottish ), Andy Salter ( ex-crocodile hunter, GreenPeace volunteer, rope access specialist ), Michele Santilhano ( South African nurse on the Seven Summits trail ), Polly Murray ( ski instructor, ex-Brit Olympic squad, Scottish ) and our wonderful Base Camp staff - Noel 'Computer Nerd and total Anorak' Bristow ( also the best expeditions comms man in the business, and Welsh ) and Amanda Fry ( Camp Totty ). Our Sherpa contingent is Ang Rita Sherpa ( Sirdar ), Dawa Tenzing ( Cook ), Jangbu Sherpa ( 4 times Everest summiter ), Pemba Gyaljen, Pemba Rinjen, Nan Chumbi, Chandra and another Dawa Tenzing. We take our hats off to these guys. 

Thanks to all our sponsors and to the New Millennium Company in Northern Ireland, and to Famous Grouse for keeping the evenings warm ! We're all looking forward to our chance on Everest and we'd like to thank everyone at home for putting up with our updates. Wish us luck ! 

Cheers Gavin Bate

  • Everest Spring 2000: Byron Smith 

Current Status: April 13, 2000 at Basecamp: I had a wonderful sleep, waking up at 7:45 a.m. to the sound of Yak bells ringing as they were walking by my tent on their way to Bob Hoffman's expedition site. The sun hit my tent at about 8:15 as I started to stir from my sleeping bag. My breakfast was toast, egg and onion omelet, and mint tea. 

The Sherpas had gone up the icefall early this morning to make more carries to Camp 2. It usually only takes them six hours round trip for the quick ones. I have sent off digital photos of all our Sherpa Team to the web site. [we have not yet received these photos] 

Peter Habeler came by to have a tea in the early afternoon. You might know Peter, who with Reinhold Messner, became one of the first two people to summit Everest without oxygen in 1978. We had a great time talking for over an hour about what has changed and what has not over the years. I will invite Peter over to our camp again, where I can interview him for the website in the near future. 

Lhakpa Sherpa, the Expedition Leader for the first all-women Nepal Team, stopped by for dinner at the request of our Sirdar Lhakpa Tshering. Her team has four women climbers who will be making their assault on Everest in May as well. She speaks very little english but with our sirdar's help we were able to communicate. Her brother, who has summitted four times is on a German Expedition on the North Side and of course she hopes to summit on the same day as him. 

See you at the top! Byron Smith Expedition Leader 

Update: Byron has a great video interview with his Sherpa sirdar and Byron doctor discusses Gabriel Filippi condition and problems... Check them out  http://cbc.ca/everest2000/

  • Everest Spring 2000: A 14 year boy

A 14 year boy, Temba Tshering Sherpa, plans to attempt the Summit of Everest in Spring 2000 from the Nepal side of the mountain. Needless to say, he would be the youngest to Summit Everest if successful. Temba Tsheri Sherpa born in 06/05/85 is climbing Mt. Everest. Temba got inspiration for climbing Mt. Everest from his father and the fairy-tale he used to hear from friends and relatives about the success of climbing Mt. Everest and the fame you earn after. The name Temba signifies one of the manifestation of Lord Buddha, meaning as Temba Ringpoche. The middle name Tsheri signifies as Tshe Ring meaning Long Life. 

Status: The boy and his expedition has left Kathmandu and is working their way to Base camp.

  • Messner !

THREE WORLD-RENOWNED MOUNTAINEERS TO RETRACE THE ROUTE PIONEERED BY SHACKLETON IN 1916 : MESSNER, VENABLES, AND ANKER EMBARK ON A JOURNEY OVER THE GLACIERS AND MOUNTAINS OF SOUTH GEORGIA ISLAND AS PART OF A LARGE FORMAT FILM (IMAX) and NOVA/PBS ONLINE ADVENTURE www.pbs.org/nova/shackleton 

Climbers Reinhold Messner, Conrad Anker, and Stephen Venables, are in great spirits and feeling up to the challenge of retracing Antarctic explorer Ernest Shackleton's historic steps across glacier-clad South Georgia Island. Their journey is being filmed for "The Endurance: Shackleton's Antarctic Journey" in IMAX, a production of NOVA/WGBH Boston and White Mountain Films.

Yesterday the three climbers reached camp near Trident Pass situated before the most difficult part of the journey over the heavily crevassed Crean Glacier. Their departure scheduled for this morning was delayed by howling winds in excess of 35 knots and heavy sleet and snow. They are planning to continue their traverse when the weather clears.

In 1916, after seventeen months in the Antarctic, Shackleton and two of his desperate crewmen, Tom Crean, and Frank Worsley, stood on the glacier-razed shores of King Haakon Bay and contemplated the treacherous journey into the unknown interior of South Georgia Island. Driven by determination to save his remaining men left behind on Elephant Island, their last hope for survival was realized when they reached the whaling station on the opposite side of the island, twenty-six miles away at Stromness. Today, three of the world's best climbers embark on the same terrain Shackleton did in 1916. Traveling together for six days on the ship Akademik Shuleykin, the climbers have had a chance to check their gear, contemplate the conditions of Shackleton's South Georgia traverse, and reflect on their own impressions of Shackleton's historic journey of survival.

Reinhold Messner, the first to fulfill Shackleton's unrealized dream of crossing the Antarctic continent of foot in 1989-90, is awed by what Shackleton accomplished. "I'm still sure that Shackleton's Endurance expedition was the greatest adventure ever, not only of the last century, it was the greatest adventure ever."

Stephen Venables' respect for what Shackleton achieved was reinforced when he experienced the unpredictable weather of South Georgia on an expedition ten years ago. "I've experienced the island and its incredible blizzards, which just seem to hit you from nowhere, and it's a very dangerous changeable maritime climate. There were times ten years ago, we had a tent destroyed by the wind, and there was one occasion skiing along a glacier when we were being blown flat on our faces and we had to take our skis off because we couldn't stay up right in the wind."

Conrad Anker-who discovered the body of George Mallory on a NOVA-sponsored expedition to Everest in 1999-knows that the weather will be their main adversary. "First and foremost of the challenges that we'll be experiencing on the Shackleton traverse will be the weather. The weather at these latitudes is bad, particularly when you have a maritime climate, and you have mountains that rise up to 2,900 meters, (9,600 ft.) that creates quite a change in topography."

The climbers aim to stay true to Shackleton's spirit in the climb. "Shackleton and Worsley managed without a GPS and I think we can manage without too, so we're just taking a simple compass and a modern map and with those tools, we ought to be able to find our way across," says Venables. Shackleton and his men completed their desperate traverse in thirty-six hours. It is unknown how long the modern climbers will take, since global warming has caused glacier deterioration and heavy crevassing since 1916.

The large-format film, premiering in February 2001, will be seen at large-format theaters worldwide, including science museums, cultural institutions and commercial theaters. The film, directed by George Butler, is a co-production of White Mountain Films and NOVA/WGBH Boston, presented by Morgan Stanley Dean Witter, based on the best-selling book The Endurance: Shackleton's Legendary Antarctic Expedition by Caroline Alexander. 

  • Recent News

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 in search of the camera and Irvine. EverestNews.com

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Mountain Madness for Everest Spring 2000

List of Expeditions who have paid for their permits in Nepal

In search of Mike Matthews' Body

Reinhold Messner latest adventure

The Quest for 14

Death on the way to Everest continued

Death on the way to Everest

EverestNews.com has learned a 14 year boy plans to attempt the Summit of Everest in Spring 2000

Juan Oiarzabal, "To the Edge of The Impossible" or AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE in Spanish: Expedition to recreate the ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine of Everest. This expedition is already underway.

Summary of Canadian Expeditions on Everest in Spring 2000

Graham Hoyland's Lecture "Unraveling the Mystery of George Mallory" in the Baird Auditorium at the National Museum of Natural History.

Alan Hinkes Q&A

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Adventure Consultants for Everest Spring 2000

Close Does Not Count for Records

ALAN HINKES TARGETS THIRD HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD, KANGCHENJUNGA AS TWELFTH MOUNTAIN ON HIS CHALLENGE TO ACHIEVE BRITISH RECORD

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe for Everest Spring 2000

Spanish Climber to attempt the Messner route on Everest

Change of Guard at the Khumbu Ice Fall

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 in search of the camera and Irvine.

Jochen Hemmleb Q&A Part 7

India climber plans to spend the night on the Summit

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