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 Daily News: 4/19/2000 Report

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe in Spring 2000. This year's expedition will be lead by Australian guide, Andrew Lock (having been on two previous Everest expeditions and reached the Summit of K2), supported by Tim Bird. Tim has led expeditions for Jagged Globe for many years including successful trips to Elbrus, Stok Kangri, Mera and Island Peak, Aconcagua and Gasherbrum II. A highly regarded professional instructor (MIC), Tim directs their Scottish Winter Courses, and provides their UK technical support for training and advice to all their group expeditions licensed through the Adventure Activities Licensing Authority. They are using the same Sherpa team as last year. This is another international team, comprising:  Jack Culley (UK), Joe Wolf (USA), Jeff Magee (UK), David Spencer (UK), Timothy Gregg (USA), Paul Giorgio (USA). 

Dispatch: The Jagged Globe team is now back from its second foray onto the mountain. Most members were able to complete the load carry to the site of camp two and drop a small amount of equipment to be used later on the climb. It is with sadness that we have had to say goodbye to Curt Peterson, an expedition member from the USA who retired from the climb yesterday the 17 April due to an ankle injury. After taking advice from the base camp doctor and the expedition leadership, Curt decided that his injury would not have time to heal during the expedition. If all goes well, he should be home with his family in approximately one week from leaving BC.

The rest of the crew is now resting and recuperating in BC for three days (17 – 19) before our next and final acclimatisation climb. We plan to leave BC early on the 20 April for camp one, then two nights at Advanced Base Camp (camp two ABC) where we have a simple mess / cook tent facility at 6400m. Then onto the Lhotse face and up to camp three at 7300m, a precarious camp cut out of the ice face! This is not a camp to hang around in, and our next visit here will be on the summit attempt in May. On this trip we will spend one night at camp three, getting up early to descend to BC for breakfast at ABC / camp two. 

This last planed phase of acclimatisation will lead us into a longer period of rest at BC and most probably at lower elevations before our summit bid in May. The team is preparing for the next stage of the climb and sends love and best wishes to our family and friends. Our next report will be during the next rest at BC, on approximately the 27 April. 

Tim Bird Deputy Expedition Leader

  • Jeffrey Warden

A lone climber from Canada is attempting the Summit from the South Side. His name is Jeffrey Warden, and he is from Winnipeg Canada. Below is a picture of him:

The signs on the one read: CONGRATULATIONS YOU ARE NOW AT UHURU PEAK, TANZANIA, 5895M. AMSL AFRICA'S HIGHEST POINT WORLD'S HIGHEST FREE-STANDING MOUNTAIN ONE OF WORLD'S LARGEST VOLCANOES WELCOME wpe5.jpg (2102 bytes)

Click on the his picture for a much larger size...

Update: Jeff is presently at Camp 2 and in good health. His team is excellent and all are very experienced climbers. The weather is great and his summit attempt day will be either May 05 or 06.  He does have a website now, so please have a look at it and encourage others to do the same. The web address is: www.pangeaextreme.homestead.com. Sarah Winnipeg, MB 

  • The Millennium Seven Summits Expedition lead by Gavin Bate http://adventurealternative.com and John Barry join the EverestNew.com team. EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches and photos from this expedition. Please see below for information on them and their dispatches from Everest.

Dispatch: Everest Base Camp Sunday 16th April 2000

Last night the team had a fantastic meal - Sherpa Stew - and spent the evening listening to the Corrs, drinking whisky and chatting. Lots of time is spent just doing nothing, acclimatizing and resting. It can get a bit boring, but obviously our minds are on going up to Camp 2 in the next few days and hopefully up to Camp 3. Now that the Lhotse Face has more or less been fixed with rope, we can make the move. We have heard that the Face is quite icy - not what we want ! What we want is about a foot of snow in which we can make nice big bucket steps ! There has been a lot of snowfall recently, which may or may not play in our favor. The last thing we want is to be breaking trail through thigh deep snow at 20,000'+ !!

To recap our position - we've got most of our personal gear (North Face sleeping bags and down suits, one-piece wind suits, mitts and clothing for up high, Thermarests) all in one tent at Camp One.

At Camp Two we now have all of our tents for the rest of the mountain, the North Face 2 meter Dome 2 which will be our main living quarters, all of the fresh food and Wayfarer mountain boil-in-the-bag food, all of the gas, stoves, radios, batteries and hardware for the rest of the mountain. All of it is buried under rocks at the moment to protect it from the elements and the birds; from Tuesday, the Camp will start to become habitable ( tents up and so on ).

The 400 meters of polyprop rope which I bought has been added to a few other teams donations, and the Lhotse Face has been fixed to within 200 meters of Camp 3 at around 23,500'. Bad weather has prevented the last bit being fixed but we are expecting it to be ready by Wednesday.

A word about our communication system on the mountain - it is a critical part of our movements on the hill. Noel Bristow is well-known in the mountaineering/expedition world as one of the best in the business (Makalu '92, Everest '93). He has linked our two Base Camp 32W solar panels to a bank of gel batteries which power all our laptops, sat phones, VHF radios and the music system ! We then have our handheld radios for each person and these are powered by flexible solar panels and gel batteries at each of the high camps. Sounds simple but Noel has hand-built all the control boxes himself.

A little bit about our equipment - for trips up to Camp 2 we are wearing full thermals, polartec midlayer, North Face fleeces, gloves and mitts, fleece hats, Rab one-piece wind suits if necessary, woolen socks and Everest One Sport boots. We all wear a harness with a jumar and a cows tail for clipping on when crossing crevasses and going through the Icefall. We use a combination of sticks for balance and a standard ice axe for some of the steeper sections. Our specialist high altitude kit is The North Face and Rab (tents - VE25's and Evolution 45's, one-piece down suits, wind suits). Plus of course the oxygen from Zvesda in Moscow.

So everyone is really looking forward to making a move next week, since it can get a bit wearing just sitting here. It basically takes a month before our bodies are ready in terms of acclimatisation, so we are nearing our optimum time for making a summit bid.

Thanks to everyone for their support and best greetings from Everest. We'll keep you posted on our progress.

Best regards

Gavin Bate

Dispatch: Everest Base Camp 17th April 2000

It is very cold tonight and we are preparing to leave Base Camp tomorrow morning very early to go to Camp One, then onto Camp 2 and hopefully up to Camp 3 over the following 5 days. Radios have been charged, films changed in cameras, kit checked, boots tried on again and loads of liquid imbibed (not whisky this time ! ).

There is a lot of movement on the mountain now with teams making their first forays up to Camp One. Yesterday unfortunately one of the ladders spanning a crevasse collapsed with one of our Sherpas on it. He was clipped into a safety line but was still left dangling some 25' down into the crevasse. Thankfully he was not hurt, but it shows the fragility of the Icefall route. Later that day one of the ice cliffs with a number of vertical ladders attached to it actually moved and all the ladders came away. A number of avalanches in the Icefall last night have rendered some of the crossings a bit delicate - we'll find out tomorrow !

We're still doing fine. The Lhotse Face has now been fixed to above Camp 3 and we are hoping to take a trip up there on Thursday. Wish us luck and thank you for all your support.

Gavin Bate

  • Annapurna Spring 2000: 

EverestNews.com will follow the attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000 Expedition": We think you will find these daily reports very interesting. Go to their site for the pictures and dispatches in Spanish. Their web site:  www.interofer.es/annapurna2000 with reports in Spanish, Pictures and more !

Update: 4/17/2000

Title: Everyone in very high spirits

Weather: Snowy and Clear

Location of Expedition: At base camp with hopes for favorable conditions to climb until camp II at 6000 meters.

Next Objective: Patience, much patience.

Dispatch: "Patience, much patience is what we must have." Is what Dr Josep Pujante Antoni explained from base camp at 4180 meters of altitude via sat phone. The intense snow and cold has forced a gathering of all the expedition members in their tents at base camp.  This includes the last of the Sherpa climbers who finally arrived today. The third and final expedition attempting Annapurna this spring is supposed to arrive tomorrow at base camp.  It is a French-Nepali military expedition. The camp will then be abuzz with discussions of the weather and the climb to the summit.  During the day, the expedition member's relaxation is only broken when it is necessary to remove snow from the tents.  Additionally, the expedition anxiously awaits chairs, which are supposed to arrive tomorrow.  Letters, music, reading, games, and talking to fellow travelers in the long hours is what is happening to pass the slow time.

EverestNews.com has added a Spring 2000 Annapurna Page where EverestNews.com will report News on this expedition and other Annapurna News.

 

  • Everest North Side

I receive a call from Franηois on morning April 17. The cook Bam Badour is going much better. During the day, April 17, he had started to slowly work again. I will have more details when Jean-Pierre Danvoye and trekkers will be back in Montreal on April 23. 

Dominic Danvoye, Everest Millenium electronic's communication responsible and Montreal's based contact. Prιsident AZUR Informatique Inc. 

Check them out at http://www.everestmillenium.qc.ca/jdb.asp for reports in French, video and more. 

Everest North Side:

  • German Austrian Scientific Expedition: Chomolungma by fair means without oxygen.

In the German/Austrian tradition these climbers will attempt Everest from the North without oxygen and by fair means. The climbers are Bastel Haller, Gustav Weinberger, Dr, Jurgen Zapf, Barbara Hirschbichler, Rudi Roozen, Georg Simair, and Mag. Thomas Lammie. Bastel has arranged communications to send some limited reports from Everest to EverestNews.com.

Update: After having spent the last week in March at 4000 m in the Valais Alps skiing and acclimatizing, we flew to Nepal on March 29. After two days here we flew to Lukla, trekking to Everest Base Camp climbing and Kala Patar and three days later Island Peak for further acclimatization. The Scientific  Part of our trip was to check the blood saturation ( O2) during our climb under stress and at rest, we compared ours to "regular trekkers" and obviously our blood gases were well adapted to the height, profiting from our stay at the altitude back home in the Alps, although is was more than a week to be back at altitude again. 

The other research part is done by our doctor Juergen Zapf who is watching (and weighing) our nutrition food and beverages have to be weighed because he wants to find our whether you eat more (how much more) or less at attitude, more fat or carbos, and or whether this has any effect on our acclimatization.

So far so good, everybody is fine and we are looking forward to experiencing Everest. 

Let's keep in touch 

Bastel Haller

  • Everest Spring 2000: Adventure Consultants Featured Expedition on EverestNews.com

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Adventure Consultants in Spring 2000.  Adventure Consultants is a world renowned expedition climbing company with a legacy of ascents to the more remote and wild peaks on our planet. Quality service, complete commitment and success are the hallmarks of Adventure Consultants, as are Guy Cotter and the qualified guides and staff who are the driving force behind Adventure Consultants’ expeditions. http://www.adventure.co.nz 

Dispatch: 4/17/2000 Movement of the AC Team

Dave and Yuki are at C1 today, resting. Andy and Ang Dorje left for C1. this morning and 4 Sherpa started out for C2 with loads, however a collapse in the icefall below C1 delayed the Sherpas for an hour or so while they found another way through. Many people turned back from the collapsed area, while our boys eventually found an alternative route and then stopped for milk tea with Dave and Yuki before carrying on. 

10.55am Chhuldim has just called from CII to say they have arrived at Camp II to set up a tent and deposit loads before returning to BC. Weather is fine today after a beautiful full moon last night. Other teams are moving loads to CIII today and fixing of ropes through to South Col should commence over the next few days. 

Guy Cotter

Christine Boskoff - Expedition Leader: The only American woman alive to have reached the Summit of Four 8000 meter peaks: Gasherbrum II-West Ridge(1999),  Lhotse-West Face (1997), Cho Oyu-West Face (1996),  Broad Peak-West Rib (1995). Only a few America men have reached more.

Peter Habeler - Austria: Owner and Director of the Alpinschule Mount Everest, President of the Austrian Alpine Club, First man, along with Reinhold Messner, to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen (1978). 8000 meter peaks:  Kangchenjunga, Nanga Parbat, G-I (Hidden Peak), Cho Oyu

EverestNews.com will be posting full dispatches sent from Christine Boskoff as they make their way in to Everest Base Camp, establish the various camps up the mountain and the final ascent to the summit.

Dispatch Two: 

Christine Boskoff reporting from Everest Base Camp: 

It is a sunny Sunday at base camp.  Today is my 3rd rest day in camp and the fourth rest day for Peter Habeler.  Ray Yeritsen will be returning to base camp from Camp II after four days on the mountain.  Our Canadian crew, led by Ben Webster, will leave for Camp I today.  Three climbing Sherpas are at Camp II and will continue to Camp III to complete the process of fixing lines for the ascent. 

On Monday, April 17th, Peter, Nazir Sabir and I will climb to Camp II.  Peter and I hope to continue on to Camp III on Tuesday if we are feeling well. 

There was a big meeting last night with all the expedition leaders to determine who was responsible for establishing fixed lines above Camp II. So far, Mountain Madness has been fixing the lines between Camp II and Camp III.  The leaders also addressed the order of approach for summiting the mountain.  Peter and I are in line to be one of the first summit teams this year.  We are expecting to summit around the end of April if all goes well.  Our chances at this time a really great! 

Everyone is well and really enjoying base camp life.  The weather has been excellent.  Until next time.... 

Christine Boskoff

  • Time to pay the bills !

EverestNews.com bills this time of years goes to the Summit !

  • Recent News

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 in search of the camera and Irvine. EverestNews.com

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Mountain Madness for Everest Spring 2000

List of Expeditions who have paid for their permits in Nepal

In search of Mike Matthews' Body

Reinhold Messner latest adventure

The Quest for 14

Death on the way to Everest continued

Death on the way to Everest

EverestNews.com has learned a 14 year boy plans to attempt the Summit of Everest in Spring 2000

Juan Oiarzabal, "To the Edge of The Impossible" or AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE in Spanish: Expedition to recreate the ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine of Everest. This expedition is already underway.

Summary of Canadian Expeditions on Everest in Spring 2000

Graham Hoyland's Lecture "Unraveling the Mystery of George Mallory" in the Baird Auditorium at the National Museum of Natural History.

Alan Hinkes Q&A

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Adventure Consultants for Everest Spring 2000

Close Does Not Count for Records

ALAN HINKES TARGETS THIRD HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD, KANGCHENJUNGA AS TWELFTH MOUNTAIN ON HIS CHALLENGE TO ACHIEVE BRITISH RECORD

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe for Everest Spring 2000

Spanish Climber to attempt the Messner route on Everest

Change of Guard at the Khumbu Ice Fall

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 in search of the camera and Irvine.

Jochen Hemmleb Q&A Part 7

India climber plans to spend the night on the Summit

For all the April 2000 News

For all the March 2000 News

The Mountaineering Must Haves

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