are now at Base Camp. Several Expeditions have been to ABC, some higher. There
is a large Russian team leading the way up the mountain. We are told of an one
Chinese Expedition on the mountain this spring with only One Chinese climber and
numerous Sherpa climbers. The Chinese climber wants to
film from the Summit of Everest.
Hoyland, with the BBC expedition, and Juan
Spanish Expedition attempting to recreate the ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine,
both have been to ABC and so far appear to be having no problems.
Camp 2 is established for
most expeditions. "Expeditions" are forming from "independent
climbers". Camp 3 established for some expeditions. The Sherpas on Babu's
expedition have been above Camp 3. Christine Boskoff,
who is climbing with Peter
has announced an
"expected end of April" Summit attempt. See her
last dispatch on EverestNews.com.
Gabriel Filippi, the
French Canadian climber who was climbing Everest with Babu
Sherpa, and came down
from Camp 2 with problems, as reported earlier on EverestNews.com, descended below
base camp on Wednesday to see if he could recover enough to make an attempt at
the Summit. Gabriel clearly wants to stay, but his chances appear low at this
Yesterday the climbing team
went up the Icefall to Camp 1 where they spent the night. After a cold night
they decided on a later start than initially planned as at 5am. It was minus
20C. They carried heavy packs up the Western Cwm to Camp 2. They arrived at
about 1pm and radioed down to Base Camp to say that they had all arrived
safely. However, they were extremely tired. Tomorrow they will be
resting at Camp 2 before going up to Camp 3 the following day. Today the
Sherpas established Camp 3 and returned to Camp 2 for the night. They have
taken up tents, stoves and food. While they were at Camp 3, they dug out
platforms for the tents. Before signing off for the night, the team enjoyed
having their e-mails relayed to them over the radio.
for Gavin Bate
- Everest Spring
Current Status: Camp
II is a hub of bustling activity with 12 expeditions now set up in the windy
Western Cwm. Byron Smith and Tim Rippel will spend two more days in this camp on
the glacial moraine before heading to Camp III for one night. Then it is back to
Today's diary entry is
another update from Virginia Robinson, in her ongoing Physician's log.
Check his diary entry for more http://cbc.ca/everest2000/
- Andalucia Everest Expedition
leader: MANUEL GONZALEZ DIAZ
This experienced group of seven
climbers includes two women Manuel Gonzαlez, Manuel Salazar, Shelter Ortega,
Immaculate Fernandez, Santiago Millαn, Fernando Fernandez-Villancos and Jose Antonio
Perez. They have trained the last year for Everest.
Rough Translation: In their words...
the next week the Expedition Andalusian will install Camp 3 at 8000 meters. The expedition Andalusian
has completed the installation of the C2, at 6380 meters. For 5 days the
climbers have been trying to adapt to
the altitude. In this
phase of adapting the nine climbers are optimistic
as far as the general conditions. Today, while four climbers have descended to
BC, five have gone to the flank of the Lhotse to
observe others working to fix ropes on the wall, reaching 6900 meters. "The wall of the Lhotse appears like a true crystal, very frozen and with hardly any accumulated snow. This has
caused the Sherpas to "draw up the route of ascent". Sherpas
work to supply Camp 2 and will remain in Camp 2 until
the complete installation of Camp 3. For two days Sherpas have been bring oxygen
up to he Camp 2. Of concern
is the fact that not all the oxygen cylinders, regulators and masks have still not been received.
EverestNews.com will publish the
Andalucia reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures, and more will be on the http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm
Expedition: Thrane & Thrane
satellite communication company, Thrane & Thrane, is sponsoring the first
all Danish Mount Everest Expedition. The expedition named BigE Thrane
& Thrane Danish Everest Expedition 2000 - All eight members of the
BigE-expedition are among the most experienced Danish climbers with significant
mountaineering experience. Leader of the expedition and team doctor is Henrik
Update: They are
at Camp 2 Check their reports at
- Graham Ratcliffe on
the first climber from the UK who reached the Summit of Everest from both the
North and South Sides.
An EverestNews.com reader
asked: In his book describing his 1953 summit climb, Hillary states that
the oxygen apparatus that he and Tenzing used delivered 4 liters of oxygen
per minute. Yet the practice today as described in Jon Krakauer's "Into
Thin Air" and other Everest books I've read is to use only a flow rate of 2
liters per minute. For commercial expeditions, where the success rate is
determined by the number of people who actually summit and people are paying a
huge sum of money for their one shot at the summit, you would think it
would be advantageous to use a higher flow rate like the original
Hillary/Tenzing summit climb. Is this lower rate strictly driven by the
difficulty of caching additional oxygen bottles high up on the mountain or is
there some other reason?
[Graham] There are several
reasons for the different oxygen flow rates used between 1953 and modern day
ascents of Everest.
1. The oxygen equipment
carried by Hillary and Tenzing was much heavier than today, I believe
their apparatus weighed over 40 pounds, and the extra effort to carry this
required more oxygen.
2. One could also argue they
were climbing from the Balcony area as the last camp, much nearer to the summit
than the South Col and had estimated their climbing time on the maximum
load they could reasonably carry. I must admit I had the dubious pleasure of
carrying a 44 pound rucksack to the summit on the North side. We could not
get the caps off our lightweight bottles without resorting to using ice
axes....which not surprisingly did not appeal, so I made my ascent using
two of the heavy iron bottles used for sleeping on. The surprising thing
is once I got into the climb I was too absorbed and did not notice the
3. As the late Anatoli
Boukreev said to me ''Graham it is not easy to be first.''
We now know what flow rate of
oxygen we can safely climb on without overloading ourselves with too much to
carry. In 1953 they were climbing on theories of what should happen...but no one
knew for sure. Today expeditions try to balance the logistics of getting the
oxygen supplies up high within the reasonable needs of the team.
Mr. Antti Mankinen
(Everest Summit 99) and Mr. Nico Backstrom from Finland try to repeat "Talking
about Tsampa". This route to trekking peak Lobuje East (6119 meters) that was
climbed by Tomaz Humar, Janez Jeglic and Carlos Carsolio in October 1, 1997.
The route follows demanding North-East face. Source: Jukka
follow the attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000
Expedition": We think
you will find these daily reports very interesting. Go to their site for the
pictures and dispatches in Spanish. Their
web site: www.interofer.es/annapurna2000
with reports in Spanish, Pictures and more !
Title: New arrivals at
Next Objective: Climb
to Camp 2
the base camp increased its population. The final expedition that will attempt
Annapurna this spring installed its tents today with the help of two helicopters
that transported their materials. This is a French-Nepali joint military
expedition. As the new expedition arrived, the American team
announced that they will leave the French route. According to its leader,
Viesturs " We have decided
to avoid all the dangerous areas of the
mountain, those most exposed to avalanches ". Tonight the sky around
Annapurna was lit by a new moon, a good omen. However, this is not sufficient
because we must only hope that the newly fallen snow compacts quickly.
This will not endanger the climbers along the slopes of this colossal mountain.
The news of the day is that one of the Port of Barcelona's tents was
destroyed by a helicopter blade. 'Jake' Molins said, "I had a small
scare and the tent can be replaced ". In the hours before the supper,
Feijjo, gave an interview to the show "Onda Rambla - Onda Cero. He
displayed from the base camp his poster and confessed that he loves the Atlιtic
of Bilbao soccer team.
EverestNews.com has added
a Spring 2000 Annapurna Page where EverestNews.com
will report News on this
expedition and other
Alberto and Felix Inurrategi
are at Camp 2. After reaching the Summit of Manaslu they plan on heading to
Alberto and Felix
Inurrategi are attempting to finish the 14 8000 meters peaks this year.
- Other Expeditions
on Manaslu this Spring:
East Japan Manaslu Exp'
ETB 2000 Expedition
Maria I. Iriate
2000 Korean Manaslu
Center Kathmandu Nepal
- Coming Soon: What
Messner, Erhard Loretan, Krzysztof Wielicki, Carlos Carsolio, and Juan
five men still alive who have reached all the Summits of the 14
8000 meter peaks, have to say about what the Summit is.
All the feedback from
the readers of EverestNews.com is clear. The Summit is the Summit, not a fore
summit or a lower summit, but the top.