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 Daily News: 4/25/2000 Report

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories.  Receiving Reports from over 25 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.

Makalu 2000: Dhaulagiri 2000: Lhotse 2000 Updated

Manaslu 2000: Kangchenjunga 2000: Annapurna 2000 Updated

  • Everest North Side:

The story is communications are still down for most expeditions.

The Russians are leading the way up the mountain, with some climbers spotted as high as the North Col.

  • Everest South Side:

Camp 4 is being established. Looks like late this week or early May for Summit attempts. 

Christine Boskoff, Peter Habeler, and Byron Smith are expected to lead the Summit attempts.

  • Mountain Madness

    Christine Boskoff - Expedition Leader: The only American woman alive to have reached the Summit of Four 8000 meter peaks: Gasherbrum II-West Ridge(1999),  Lhotse-West Face (1997), Cho Oyu-West Face (1996),  Broad Peak-West Rib (1995). Only a few America men have reached more.

    Peter Habeler - Austria: Owner and Director of the Alpinschule Mount Everest, President of the Austrian Alpine Club, First man, along with Reinhold Messner, to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen (1978). 8000 meter peaks:  Kangchenjunga, Nanga Parbat, G-I (Hidden Peak), Cho Oyu

    Dispatch: I had a call from Christine Boskoff last night from Everest base camp.  I was pleasantly surprised to hear from her.  She reports that the team are doing well.  She had spent the last few days resting at base camp.  It was early morning in Nepal and they were getting their first "real" snow storm since arriving at base camp.  Weather permitting, they will once again ascend to Camp III for another night of acclimatization.  She and Peter Habeler have both successfully slept at Camp III.  If all goes well they hope to make their summit bid at the end of this week or next.  I know everyone here will be keeping their fingers crossed! 

    Our Mountain Madness guide, Ant Chapin, returned from Kathmandu last week having completed the support trek with a dozen clients.  From his report it seems that the group had a great time trekking in towards the base camp with six members actually spending some time at the base camp with the climbers. Cary Craig notified me that Christine had reported her name incorrectly from base camp and she hoped we could fix it so her friends would know that she had made it.  Well, Ant says she not only made it to base camp but in great shape! 

    The support trekkers have been a real asset to our team.  Our first trek left the US on March 21st.  Two of our teammates, Lynn Snow and Brent Sullivan, agreed to take a duffle of food and equipment to Kathmandu to support our climbing team.  On the third trip which left on Saturday, April 22, Chip Kessler took a duffle with additional clothing for four of our Sherpas and special foods for our climbers.  We certainly appreciate all their support.  Our final group of support trekkers leave on April 27th. 

    In this group we have one very special individual.  Her name is Toni Lugger.  She actually signed up for the trip over two years ago.  Nothing like goal setting!  She has been a terrific model for setting goals and achieving her dream.  She has visited her eleven year old son Nicolas' school, Pompano Beach Middle School and Rickards Middle School to give presentations about going after what you want in life regardless of your gender.  Everyone who knows Toni knows that going to Everest Base Camp has been a life long dream.  She lies in bed at night wondering what it will feel like to finally accomplish her dream.  She tells me she will feel like a million bucks....No, much more!  I feel certain that when Toni reaches the base camp our climbing team will welcome her positive energy and will appreciate the message she has delivered to the young folks in the US. Good luck Toni! 

    Until we hear from Christine....

    Patty Flanagan Mountain Madness, Inc

 

  • Gabriel Filippi

On the small yellow tent with the foot of the large glacier, a message written with the hand: " Return in five days " the Quebec mountaineer Gabriel Filippi, who came very close to death this week on the mountain, left the base camp to go to rest at lower altitude. Filippi must meet the doctors in the private clinic of Pheriche, who will determine if he has recovered from the beginning of cerebral and pulmonary edema encountered at camp 2 of Everest at 6500 meters. According to doctors at base camp, Filippi is lucky to still be alive. He was in surprising form, ready to leave BC with his large pack on his back. He coughed and had a hollow voice, but he kept up is spirits.

Gabriel Filippi has several updates check him out at www.everesty2k.com

  • Everest Spring 2000: Everest Dream

Hi everyone, It has been a little while. I am live an well and back at the BC. Here is the latest update on the climb. Everything is going well but the weather has taken a turn for the worse. I will send you more details and the rest of the diary in the next day or two... Saeed 

April 14, 15, 16 2000 Sagarmatha Base Camp (17600 feet ): The last three days at the BC have been rest and recovery days. Since the weather pattern is very predictable these days, I spent the first half of the days with washing, cleaning and catching up with socializing with other expeditions at the base camp. The "Everest Clean up" expedition camp is right next to my camp, "Mountain Madness" is also near by.   One of the major figures of the mountaineering world who is back to Climb Sagarmatha after 22 years is the Austrian climber Peter Habeler. Peter has spent three months in Iran in 1964 training Iran's military personnel in the mountains of north of Tehran. In many tea time conversations that I have had with him, he has very good vivid memories of his fun time in Iran and he holds a nice Persian Rug as his departure present that he said laughing "He had a hard time paying the  customs" when he entered Austria. Peter climbed to the summit of Sagarmatha with Reinhold Messner in 1978 without the use of Oxygen. When I asked him "What brings him back here again to climb Sagarmatha?" He replied "Just for the joy of mountaineering..."

April 17 2000 Sagarmatha Base Camp 17600 feet

Today I had an early start at 6:30 AM to head for Camp I and As I approached the Ice Fall I noticed some climbers and Sherpas where on their way back and shortly after I saw Jeff Warden who had left about 15 minutes before me on his way back. The story was that a couple of places in the Ice Fall had "fallen" and Sherpas where repairing the broken ropes and ladders. I returned to my tent and since it was an unexpected day off at BC and nothing was planned, started it with a big, long breakfast with the rest of the folks at camp and the day continued with some reading in the sun shine as well as resting outside listening to classical music with Carlos Soria. Carlos wants to be the oldest man who has climbed Sagarmatha from Spain. He has a youthful spirit and at 61 years of age amazingly strong mountaineer! I wish that I will have half of his strength when I am at his age. 

April 18 2000 Sagarmatha Base Camp to Camp I:  With the news of Ice Fall's repair I headed to Camp I bright and early as the day seemed to be as good of a day as yesterday. My fingers and my toes felt cold as I stopped to put on my crampons so I stopped and massaged my fingers to get the blood circulating in them. After an hour and a half of going up the sun hit the ice. What a glorious moment! The sun hitting the blue ice blocks are balanced on top of each other makes this place as beautiful as it is. I had to take a couple of photo and video stops on my way up. Although stopping in the Ice Fall is against the rules I could not resist not capturing the moments... I was on top of the last three length vertical ladder when it was time for my radio contact with Jeff at BC. I got to camp shortly after the radio contact at 12:30 PM. The weather was calm and the sun was playing hide and seek as she was making her way towards Pumori peak to rest for the night. I quickly set up the stove in front of the tent and started to make water for lunch, dinner and drinking. Drinking at high altitude is one of the key factors of staying functional. Making water and vegetable soup made the afternoon short and sun was about to rest behind Pumori that I made to the sleeping bag to rest and get ready for the next day's climb to Camp II at 21,100'... 

April 19 2000 Camp I to Camp II 

I was up about 6:00 AM and I stretched out of the sleeping bag to turn on the stove to melt the frozen pot of water from yesterday. As the ice melted, the tent was warmer and more encouraging to leave the sleeping bag. I prepared the breakfast and packed the sleeping bag and the back pack but I did not leave the tent until the sun crawled up behind the Lhotse and Nuptse, the two little sisters of Sagarmatha and hit my tent. The flat area of Camp I is located in the beginning of the Western CWM --  that leads to Lhotse face. By the time I was out of the tent I saw the Sherpas who were carrying load to Camp II. I assured with them that everything was ready in Camp II and started my way up the Western CWM. The Western CWM starts with many ups and downs and small crevasses that can easily be jumped. The CWM continues in a gradual and long ascent to the bottom of the Lhotse face. Since the CWM is a valley it is hardly windy and it is known as the frying pan! You enter white from one side and get out black from the other side. After an hour en route to Camp II I ended up having pealed off all layers except my under shirt and still feeling hot! After two hours I saw the camp in the distance but somehow I had the feeling that I have another two hours to go. I had passed 20,500' and I had only 600' vertical feet to go but the route was not steep enough to gain the altitude. After a little while I reached the British team who offered me the way to pass them but I did not have the strength to take the offer and we started to talk. Camp 1 starts at 20,600' and ends at about 21,100'. Guess what? My camp was at 21,100'. I dragged myself up another 500' and reached camp exhausted and overheated at about 12:30 PM. I was feeling the altitude very well. I will be spending the next 4 nights here to adapt my body and force it to produce more blood cells to compensate for the lack of Oxygen. Lhotse face was very clear in front of me. Its steepness looked scary, but I was here at camp II that is all I need to be worried about. I had passed our Camp II cook on the route so there was no hot tea waiting for me. I saw Carlos my tent mate and he asked me about the cook. All I knew I just wanted to lay down for an hour and I did... 

Saeed's full dispatches/pictures and more from Nepal can be found at www.everestdream.com

  • Canadian Everest Expedition 2000:

Current Status: Above Camp 1: "...We were watching their ascent through binoculars, the scene being serene, when a huge avalanche released like a bomb. .."

You can get full details on the Canadians at the Canadian Everest Expedition 2000's official website -- http://www.canoe.ca/Everest/home.html

  • Everest Spring 2000: Byron Smith

Current Status: Byron Smith and Tim Rippel and all the Sherpas on the Everest 2000 team are back at Basecamp today. Nine Sherpas who were up at Camp 2 (in order to climb up to stock Camp 4) had to come back down because of a change in the weather. 

It snowed last night, dropping 7-10 centimeters of snow on the mountain. The fresh snow and blowing wind can create white out conditions on Everest. If the weather lets up, this setback will only delay the summit push by a couple of days. 

Today's diary entry is from Saturday April 22, the day Tim and Byron climbed down from 7200 meters at Camp 3 to the relative comforts of Basecamp. 

For video updates, background information, interactive maps and more on check his diary entry for more http://cbc.ca/everest2000/

  • Annapurna Spring 2000: 

EverestNews.com will follow the attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000 Expedition": We think you will find these daily reports very interesting. Go to their site for the pictures and dispatches in Spanish. Their web site:  www.interofer.es/annapurna2000 with reports in Spanish, Pictures and more !

These are the objectives of the team formed by the Turk Ugur Uluocak, the Basque Josu Feijoo, the Catalans: Jep Tapias, Joaquim Molins, and Xavier Arias, Paschal Borja of Madrid, climber from Nepal Ang Phurba, Dawa Sherpa, Chuldim Sherpa and Dawa Sherpa. 

4/21/2000 A huge avalanche has devastated part of the route to camps I & II.

Weather: Sunny during the day, snowing at night.

Expedition Location: At Camp 1:  Pujante, Ugur, Tapias, Paschal, Feijoo and Arias. In Base Camp: Molins, Dawa and Phurba Chuldim.

Next Objective: Climb to Camp 2 with Supplies

Dispatch: Dr. Josep Antoni Pujante called via satellite from Camp 1 at 5000 meters.  The team made up of Ugur Uluocak, Borja Pascual and myself re-opened the route between Camp 1 and Camp 2.  The route had been blocked by continuing snow and avalanches.  Descending to Camp 1 to sleep with "Team Two" composed of Jep Tapias, Feijoo &  Arias. They had spent the day reinforcing the fixed ropes between Base Camp and Camp 1.  Today, we were to have installed Camp 2 to sleep there.  However, during the middle of the night, an intense avalanche starting at 7500 meters blew through and dusted the platform where Camp 1 is located.  It lasted a few minutes.  This morning, we prepared our loads for the Sherpas to transport to Camp 2 made up of ropes, tents and food.  Minutes afterwards, when studying the route, we saw that the avalanche of the previous night literally swept all but 400 meters of the route to Camp 2. This is the exact route that we followed yesterday. The avalanche wiped out the route towards Camp 2. Immediately afterwards, as the expedition head, I had to order that neither Sherpas nor the climbers accept the to risk and cancelled the plans for the day. I have ordered the Sherpas to descend to the BC. The climbers, at the moment, are here at Camp 1. The American expedition, led by Ed Viesturs, who also was in the Camp 1 and have immense experience in the Himalayas, at sight of the circumstances, decided to definitively abandon their ascent of Annapurna. The French military expedition, did not climb to Camp 1 as was planned. We are therefore alone at Camp 1 and in good conditions. As the route to Camp 2 has been destroyed and the atmospheric conditions are not good, we will stay here a few days awaiting better conditions. PATIENCE, PRUDENCE AND TENACITY MUST BE UNITED IN ORDER TO ASCEND ANNAPURNA!!! 

4/22/2000 "Team Two" Sleeps at Camp 2"

Weather: Sun in the day and snow at night

Location of Expedition: Camp 2: Xavier Arias, Borja Pascual and Ugur Uluocak.

Camp I:  Josep A. Pujante, Jep Tapias, Dawa and Phurba. Base Camp: Joaquim Molins and Feijoo.

Next Objective: Supply Camp 2 and study the route to Camp 3

Dispatch: This morning at 9:30AM Nepal time, five members of "Team Two" took advantage of a slight improvement the weather.  They ascended to Camp 2, carrying tents, climbing equipment and food, without the support of Sherpas.  The intention was for three team members (Xavier Aryan, Paschal Borja and Ugur Uluocak) to spend the night at Camp 2.  They are acclimatizing and will study the route to Camp 3 in the morning. "Team One" made up of Dr. Jose A. Pujante and Jep Tapias are to head to BC to  re-energize.  If this is not possible due to bad weather, they will stay at Camp 1.  Our formidable team of Sherpas climbed today to Camp 1 with the intention to climb to Camp 2 tomorrow to collaborate with the members of the expedition in the establishment of this camp. At 14:15 (Nepal time), the weather at BC is not very encouraging.  A cloudy front coming from the west, originating in the Valley of Lete, has blown into the base camp area of Annapurna.  This phenomenon has become habitual since our arrival to the Himalayas.  The storms unloading snow and the temperature descends. The combination of afternoon snows and lower temperatures at night makes it enormously difficult for our teams to make progress.  This is due to the avalanches of accumulated snow on our routes.

Joaquim M. "Jake" Molins, from Annapurna BC

4/23/2000 Team member leaving

Dispatch:  Feijoo will leave Annapurna base camp tomorrow to go to Everest to fulfill his commitments as the head of the Basque expedition.  The expedition is looking to ascend to the ceiling of the world! He will take advantage of the American expedition's trek led by Ed Viesturs to descend with them until Kathmandu. Today, the expedition sponsored by the Port of Barcelona has not emitted any official notice from the base camp. This could be caused by a technical problems in the mail server that we hope will be solved in the next hours.

4/24/2000 A storm whips the mountain.

Location of Expedition: Seeking Refuge at Base Camp

Next objective:  Wait, wait, wait

Dispatch: Annapurna is being whipped by inclement weather since yesterday afternoon. After 14 hours of uninterrupted snow, BC has been swallowed with almost half meter of snow.  The slopes of Annapurna, especially the North face's glacier (where the climbing route is located) have been dangerously loaded with snow. With complete certainty, the route could not be climbed for another three or four days because of the avalanche danger. The mountain has disappeared before out eyes.  The visibility is little and the landscape presents/displays a monotony of the thick whiteness that surrounds us. We see only snow and fog. The good news is that the teams returned from Camp 1 and Camp 2 yesterday to BC.  The team climbing down from Camp 2 was surprised by the storm. If the two teams had not descended yesterday, the climbers would have been in jeopardy because both of the camps are now isolated. All the expeditionary members are, then, in the BC and in perfect state. The North American expedition that already decided to leave must now wait at the BC for the weather to improve.  The French military expedition decided today to not climb Annapurna.  This was communicated by their leader, Captain Thierry Bolo. The causes are identical to those which motivated the American equipment led by Ed Viesturs. The Expedition of the 50th anniversary will hope to resume the climbing activity when time and prudence advise it. Both high camps are perfectly installed and equipped. Meanwhile, it continues to snow. The snow is white, but the panorama is black.

J. Pujante, Head of the Port of Barcelona Expedition.

EverestNews.com has added a Spring 2000 Annapurna Page where EverestNews.com will report News on this expedition and other Annapurna News. 

For all the April 2000 News

For all the March 2000 News

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