EVEREST LHOTSE EXPEDITION is sponsored by
O BOTICΑRIO, VOLKSWAGEN and PETROBRΑS
day of the Brazilian Expedition to the Top of the
Camp 1 (6,050 - 6,150 m). The Brazilian Expedition is
the first to install Camp 1
A day full of action! The SPCC came
early to start working and we helped them. It was
incredible. To link 3 or 4 aluminum ladders, to win
over the void of the gigantic crevasses of 4 to 5
meters wide, scarily deep, maybe more than 40 meters.
Also a day of much happiness to the
team, because we settled Camp 1 in its definitive
location. It's a big snowy plateau at 6,150m of
altitude, which we don't trust much because we are
surrounded by big crevasses.
We are close to the west face of
Everest, which is constantly swept by avalanches. The
Khumbu glacier, after all, never inspired any trust to
climbers. The movements of this mass of ice are
constant and new crevasses open and close each day.
Unfortunately we had a problem with 1
of our 3 high altitude carriers. In one of the
vertical trails, while doing a rappel, the aluminum
stake that was fixed in the ice fell loose. Our
loaded Sherpa, named Mingma, fell and his leg got
stuck in a piece of ice. The violence of the shock
caused a serious torsion in his ankle.
We were, of course, very worried for
him, and immediately a team formed by our Sherpas plus
the Sherpas of one of the Japanese expeditions, gave
the first aids and started to descend the wounded.
We'd have liked to go along with them, but we decided
We wanted to help, but it was really
not necessary. The solidarity among Sherpas is great,
so we would just go along with them with nothing to
do. We continued and equipped Camp 1, to spend one
more night above 6,000m. That way we would improve
our acclimatization to thin air.
I am a bit worried about days passing
by, the delay in the Ice Fall by the SPCC has delayed
our climbing schedule in one week. We know it's not
their fault, in fact it is the mountain who always
dictates the rules of the game.
Time doesn't stop and we have to give
our maximum effort to achieve our objective. Irivan,
Bonga, Mute, Mafia and me, would like to tell
everybody that we are very well. Our enthusiasm to
put the Brazilian flag on top of the world is every
I send two pictures for you to see a
little better the area of Camp 1.
LHOTSE EXPEDITION is sponsored by O BOTICΑRIO,
VOLKSWAGEN and PETROBRΑS
Portuguese by Jorge Rivera